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///M3 Forum
The BMW E46 ///M3 is the M version E46 and puts out an amazing 333 HP and 262 lb-ft of torque at stock specs! There are an amazing amount of modifications for both the coupe and convertible models so read up and get started modifying your cars today!

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Old 07-18-2013, 09:01 AM   #21
tinman831
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Originally Posted by NJfistpumpin View Post
Trust me when I tell you if the dealer is selling for 11k they got it for 8k. And make your own judgment about an 8k 90kmile m3...


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Prior owner could have been a sucker or desperate for cash.
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Old 07-20-2013, 03:04 PM   #22
EM3NiGHTMARES
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ii found another one for 13 but it makes a clunk noise when driven i had them put it on the lift for me and it looked pretty clean but when moving the rear tire around the rear end theirs a loud thump/clunk I told them to have it checked and they said they will let me know but now im having second thoughts on if i am even interested as ive heard smg is a pain and the pumps WILL fail at one point heres two pics itis this blue black color looks really nice and has csl? rims with bilstein shocks and springs is an 03 and has 123k

Last edited by EM3NiGHTMARES; 08-04-2013 at 04:24 PM.
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Old 07-21-2013, 11:22 AM   #23
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ii found another one for 13 but it makes a clunk noise when driven i had them put it on the lift for me and it looked pretty clean but when moving the rear tire around the rear end theirs a loud thump/clunk I told them to have it checked and they said they will let me know but now im having second thoughts on if i am even interested as ive heard smg is a pain and the pumps WILL fail at one point heres two pics itis this blue black color looks really nice and has csl? rims with bilstein shocks and springs is an 03 and has 123k
I'd take this one over the first one, look like VMR wheels, coby wheel, looks tastefully modified unlike the other one....... and when driving, that's the M clunk dude, it's in all SMG cars.
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Old 07-21-2013, 12:05 PM   #24
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Well, show him 10k and walk away if he wont take it, then be prepared for a maintenance do over, or get a PPI done.
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Old 07-21-2013, 12:26 PM   #25
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being as i am not paying cash and am financing the vehicle (this will be my toy I have a work truck as my daily) my options are VERY limited.
They were asking 12,900 for the car and I got them down to 11,300 plus dealer fee, tax, transfer tag it closed at 13k.
with me giving 5k I will still owe 8k on the car and it obviously needs some work/is over KBB value (first m3 owned a 330 before)
They told me tommorow its going to the bmw dealer but if they do fix the issue with the rear end they will add that to the price wont get it free.
So my options are go right now and buy it as is and fix it on my own either at that price or trying to get it down 1 to 2k or walk away.
What to do? I still want to have a PPI done but afraid I will have to own it before that happens as this is my only opportunity.
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Old 07-21-2013, 02:12 PM   #26
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being as i am not paying cash and am financing the vehicle (this will be my toy I have a work truck as my daily) my options are VERY limited.
They were asking 12,900 for the car and I got them down to 11,300 plus dealer fee, tax, transfer tag it closed at 13k.
with me giving 5k I will still owe 8k on the car and it obviously needs some work/is over KBB value (first m3 owned a 330 before)
They told me tommorow its going to the bmw dealer but if they do fix the issue with the rear end they will add that to the price wont get it free.
So my options are go right now and buy it as is and fix it on my own either at that price or trying to get it down 1 to 2k or walk away.
What to do? I still want to have a PPI done but afraid I will have to own it before that happens as this is my only opportunity.
Why would they add that to the price? They should just pay for it and keep the price as-is, or, lower the price for however much that will cost to get fixed.
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Old 07-21-2013, 02:20 PM   #27
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pretty much they said if its gonna be expensive to fix they wont sell it to me and will just send it to auction like they would have done if I didnt happen to pass by and see it sitting their.
it had a flat tire it had just been traded in they took a look over it and replaced the two front tires to sell it to me after i felt/heard that clunk/thump I told them i didnt want it unless they fixed it.
now they pretty much are giving me the hint that they rather auction it off then sell it to me im not sure if its a cheap or expensive fix but they wont fix it for the same price thats for sure..
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Old 07-21-2013, 02:21 PM   #28
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Yeah thats sounds like BS, the car has an issue, they as the dealer should be fixing the issue. As an additional note DO NOT PUT FIVE DOWN on a 13k car. thats a big waste. Your monthly payment right now will only be 230 for 5 years at a 3.5 interest rate. Save that 5k for maintence.
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Old 07-21-2013, 02:22 PM   #29
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pretty much they said if its gonna be expensive to fix they wont sell it to me and will just send it to auction like they would have done if I didnt happen to pass by and see it sitting their.
it had a flat tire it had just been traded in they took a look over it and replaced the two front tires to sell it to me after i felt/heard that clunk/thump I told them i didnt want it unless they fixed it.
now they pretty much are giving me the hint that they rather auction it off then sell it to me im not sure if its a cheap or expensive fix but they wont fix it for the same price thats for sure..
Just walk away. Find a cleaner car with a little more expensive budget - you'll be happier getting into an M3 and you're confident that something won't break down on you.
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Old 07-21-2013, 07:21 PM   #30
EM3NiGHTMARES
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i ended up picking it up for 10.6k and thought i had a good deal but on the way home the cog wheel light came on wiith tthe SES i ran the code at advance and only one was P1717 what is that am I doomed?
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Old 07-21-2013, 07:24 PM   #31
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Replace the salmon relay - you're not doomed. $12 part.

http://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=616202

I would also take it for an inspection by an Indy if you already didn't - that way, they can inspect the problem, and figure out what else is wrong with the car if there is.
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Old 07-21-2013, 07:27 PM   #32
EM3NiGHTMARES
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it has happened at least 4-5 times on the drive home where its shifting fine and then it blinks and goes to 0 and revving the engine does nothing i have to turn the car off and on again to get it to engage this is freaking me out
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Old 07-21-2013, 07:29 PM   #33
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it has happened at least 4-5 times on the drive home where its shifting fine and then it blinks and goes to 0 and revving the engine does nothing i have to turn the car off and on again to get it to engage this is freaking me out
Again - replace the salmon relay. It's a cheap part and a good starting point to SMG problems. Go to the dealer with a different car and buy one, replace it, see if that works.
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Old 07-21-2013, 07:53 PM   #34
EM3NiGHTMARES
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ok and another thing i noticed the key does not lock or unlock or do anyhting.. my 330ci had lock on the handle itself that i could manualy use to get in iand out of the car.. the m3 handles do not have any manual mechanism what can i do to fix this???
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Old 07-21-2013, 07:55 PM   #35
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ok and another thing i noticed the key does not lock or unlock or do anyhting.. my 330ci had lock on the handle itself that i could manualy use to get in iand out of the car.. the m3 handles do not have any manual mechanism what can i do to fix this???
My M3 does have a manual mechanism on my door handle, so I'm not sure about that one.Why didn't you take this car for a PPI?
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Old 07-21-2013, 08:45 PM   #36
EM3NiGHTMARES
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I will be taking it to the shop tommorow.

The yellow smg cog light has come on turned off it's intermittent and I also noticed the SES light turned off and then back on over a bump (maybe coincedence)
When accelerating in automatic mode not fast it shifts ok but if i give it more gas it will stay stuck in 2nd unless i manually shift it..
The jumping to 0 and flashing not engaging happened with it in auto and smg just trying to explain this as best I can and I will report back with the PPI results.
I know their a few (some more now) issues with the car but for 10.5 I feel the body is mint and I am willing to put whatever it takes to get her back up to par.
Another question I have is why their is only 2 red lights from 8-9k rpms and 1 yellow light from 7.5-8k rpms on my dash on? When I put it in sport mode I do not notice any difference no lights change??

Sorry for being a newbie but I am in love with this car even with all the problems (hoping to get it all fixed under 5k tops) I am having..

Last edited by EM3NiGHTMARES; 08-04-2013 at 04:26 PM.
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:17 PM   #37
Steezy
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Originally Posted by EM3NiGHTMARES View Post
I will be taking it to the shop tommorow.

The yellow smg cog light has come on turned off it's intermittent and I also noticed the SES light turned off and then back on over a bump (maybe coincedence)
When accelerating in automatic mode not fast it shifts ok but if i give it more gas it will stay stuck in 2nd unless i manually shift it..
The jumping to 0 and flashing not engaging happened with it in auto and smg just trying to explain this as best I can and I will report back with the PPI results.
I know their a few (some more now) issues with the car but for 10.5 I feel the body is mint and I am willing to put whatever it takes to get her back up to par.
Another question I have is why their is only 2 red lights from 8-9k rpms and 1 yellow light from 7.5-8k rpms on my dash on? When I put it in sport mode I do not notice any difference no lights change??

Sorry for being a newbie but I am in love with this car even with all the problems (hoping to get it all fixed under 5k tops) I am having..
It's a beautiful car... looks like the hood gap between the left headlight (in the picture) is a little bigger than on the right? Also, I'm not sure what you're saying about the lights. Can you try to explain it a little more clearly?
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:26 PM   #38
EM3NiGHTMARES
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Mine looks like this. Except the OIL PRESSURE is exactly at the halfway point if not a tad over and the same goes for the engine temp.
I thought pressing the sport button made the amount of yellow lights increase? What exactly does sport do?

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Old 07-21-2013, 09:30 PM   #39
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To purchase this m3 or not help please!

Nice looking M3!

Did the dealer offer any kind of warranty?

I bought my 325 from a dealer and the transmission went within the 1st week. They were forced to replace it free of charge. Had I bought it from a private seller I wouldn't have been so fortunate. So they should be fixing your issues for you if they're a reputable dealership.


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Old 07-21-2013, 09:31 PM   #40
Steezy
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Mine looks like this. Except the OIL PRESSURE is exactly at the halfway point if not a tad over and the same goes for the engine temp.
I thought pressing the sport button made the amount of yellow lights increase? What exactly does sport do?

The lights right now you see on the speedometer are normal. When the engine is cold, those orange lights will be all the way lit at 4000RPM - telling you to NOT rev the engine that high. Once the car warms up, those orange lights will start to disappear to only one (which is what you posted). Those orange lights have correlation to the water temperature, not oil temperature, which I find to be extremely inaccurate. For me, I will NEVER rev above 3.5k RPMS when the oil temperature is below the first dot. After the first dot, then you can drive a little harder. Normal operating temperature is usually in the middle of the dot and the line (210), but, when it's hot out, it's normal for it to get a little past 210 depending on if your AC is on and how you're driving. As for sport mode, sport mode ONLY increases throttle response, and it has no correlation to the orange lights you see on the RPM gauge. It does not give the car more horsepower or make it faster.

One thing I like about SMG is once you approach redline the lights will light up indicating when you should shift.
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