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Useful tips for changing FUEL FILTER

75K views 70 replies 51 participants last post by  jeepo23 
#1 ·
Changing the fuel filter is very straight forward. It is extremely easy. Follow the numerous DIY on this board regarding changing the OEM fuel filter.

Here are some tips that you might find useful.

1) The fuel filter is located directly underneath the driver seat on the under carriage of the car.

2) There are two ends on the fuel filter. The IN put is toward the gas tank. The OUT put is toward the front of the car. There is an arrow painted on the fuel filter. Just make sure the arrow is pointing toward the front and you will be OKAY.

3) There is a shield protecting the fuel filter from getting all banged up. Use 8mm socket to remove the nuts.

4) After removing the shield, the fuel filter is secured by a bracket. Use a 10mm socket to remove it.

5) The hose are secure by a bunch of clamps. Use a "flat top" screw driver to loosen the clamps. To tighten the clamps use a 7/32 socket or a pair of plier. You CANNOT tigten the clamps with a flat top screw driver.

6) Remove the rubber hose by wedging a screw driver on the rubber hose while pulling and twisting the fuel filter.

7) Be prepare to have lots and lots of fuel leakage. Clean fuel immediately. FUel will evaporate faster when smear around rather than sitting in a puddle.


SAFETY TIPS

1) Change fuel filter only in well ventilated area. I was changing my fuel filter outside and yet I still feel sick.

2) Have a fire extinguisher ready in case. Would you rather take the time to buy or find a fire extinguisher than have your car destroy or blow up?

3) When removing the fuel line or when fuel are leaking out, make sure you priodically ground yourself from static electricity. Just touch all the metal/steal components underneath your car every two-three minutes or so.
 
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#31 ·
thanks for the info I changed my filter this morning. apart from geting my head sparayed with fuel it all went well. I thought my o2 sensors needed replacing because the car was running like a dog but after taking the old filter off and trying to blow through it i found it was completly blocked up.

the cars running 150% better now thanks.
 
#33 ·
OK, I just did this on my 2000 323I with a build month of May 2000 and 85K miles. All of the information and insights from this and other forums/web sites was very helpful. I don***8217;t normally work on my cars, but I really don***8217;t like to pay the $160/hr. BMW shop fee here in South Florida so I***8217;ve become a DIYer for PM. I did run into one major issue that I will discuss in item 5 below. Here are some things I ran into and how I overcame them as a novice. I***8217;m sure many of you will and can do better.

1) My filter has only one inlet and outlet so that made it a bit easier than those with multiple hoses. I do not know if mine had been changed before, but the one that was there was a Bosch. I replaced it with a Wicks(sp) filter I bought at the local parts store. Maybe not the best, but I***8217;ll be changing it again in 15,000 miles so I***8217;ll put a Bosch on then.

2) The filter was further into the center of the car than what I had imagined from the info I***8217;d read. Even the Bentley manual did not give a good description of the location. It is about 1.5 feet in from the left edge of the car, slightly aft of the forward jack point on the left side under the driver. I took the protective shield completely off as it didn***8217;t look like it would bend without breaking. Be advised that on my car there was a protective shield over something that is very close to the left underside of the car. This is not the fuel filter.

3) I purchased some replacement hose clamps (2) at the local BMW dealership ($1.73/ea), but I did not replace the hose sections. Everything looked very good and very clean before I got started. It was not a problem at all to loosen or tighten the hose clamps using a flat-head screwdriver. Getting the bracket off was quite easy as well. I found that turning the filter made it easier to get it off the hoses.

4) Even though I had pulled the circuit breaker for the fuel pump (#54) and turned the engine over as much as possible there was still a fair amount of residual pressure in the line. DO NOT forget to wear eye protection and have kitty litter ready to put down to collect fuel. I had my pan to collect the fuel, but the pressure did spray it around a bit. Once the fuel started coming out in a stream I left everything in place (filter still partially inserted in to the hoses) and let the fuel and pressure bleed off. While I was waiting I remembered I hadn***8217;t opened the gas cap so I did that, but I don***8217;t know if it made any difference. Once the fuel was just dripping out I then completely removed the hoses. This caused a very short burst of air and fuel to come out, but it wasn***8217;t much. All in all I got maybe two or three cups of fuel on the ground and in the catch pan. I got more out of the filter once I had it off and in a bucket. That fuel was dirty and had shiny specs of something floating in it. The dirty fuel came from the input side.

5) Installing the filter and hose clamps was easy and as I said I was able to use a flat-head screwdriver to tighten the clamps. The real problem arose while trying to get the filter bracket back around the new filter and onto the car. The old and new filters have a hard rubber ***8220;sleeve***8221; around the middle where the bracket and car body is going to touch it. I assume this is to protect the filter from rubbing against the bracket and the underside of the car. The new ***8220;sleeve***8221; isn***8217;t pliable so the bracket would not easily wrap around the filter and onto the threaded post on the bottom of the car.

To make a long story short I wasn***8217;t able to get enough force on the bracket to put it over the threaded post let alone keep it in place long enough for me to get the nut on. I did get it on once, but as soon as I released pressure it slid back down the post. This made me nervous, as I didn***8217;t want to strip the threads. After a very frustrating hour or so I decided I had to do something similar to what I***8217;d done to get my disposal in place under my sink ***8211; I used the floor jack to push the filter up and keep it in place while I put the nut on. (My car was on jacks in the front.) I placed a piece of wood on the floor jack and positioned it so the wood only pushed up on the filter and bracket and not the car. It***8217;s amazing what a little leverage will do! This worked well and in no time I had the bracket securely in place.

The rest of the process was as others have described. Based on the fuel I got out of the output side I***8217;d say it was doing its job. Thus, I probably didn***8217;t need to change it, but it was a good experience none-the-less. It may be just wishful thinking, but I sensed smoother and more responsive acceleration after changing the filter. I hope this posting helps someone even if it was a bit long winded.
 
#34 ·
An addendum for fuel filter DIY... I used this link and...

http://bimmerinfo.com/diy/fuel-filter/

If you have the later car with the fuel clamps that can't be tightened with a socket or with a screwdriver...the key tool is a 5.5mm ignition wrench. I used a craftsman from a small set sold in a vinyl pouch. The clamps only have 2 flats, not six. Once I figured that out the only problem was what size. I guess any 5.5mm open end wrench would work fine.
Also, I couldn't figure out how to get the shield off without going really far into the interior, (didn't bother trying) it appears to be screwed in from the driver foot area, really odd. The only way is to bend it out of the way. BTW my fuel pump makes less noise now on startup. My car has 68k miles.

Oh PS, my 2 local dealers say they do NOT do a fuel pump at inspection 2, unless you ask & pay for it, it's not included with the maintenance program. This DIY took roughly 1 hour including getting the ramps out, etc. from start to finish. I need a shower now!
 
#36 ·
Fuel sprayed out like a garden hose from the first hose (the one towards the front of the car) I took off. This is with me pulling the fuse and cranking a few times as well as taking the gas cap off. Good thing I had safety glasses on because I had a gas sprayed all over my face! I'd recommend wrapping a rag around the first hose clamp to dampen the fuel spray.
 
#38 ·
Just did mine for the first time using this DIY and the one on the link... Took me 40 mins or so to do! Next time it will take no more than 30 mins for sure!!! It appears that my hoses (or pieces of hoses) will need to be replaced very soon... I did not feel like driving to the auto parts store but I will be changing them very shortly!

Again... the procedure for the change is very straight forward and full of common sense (you cant do something until you have completed something else!).

I hate those lil clamps... Its stupid that you can only unscrew them with a flat head screwdriver but you cant put them back using the same flathead... You must use a plier!!! I PLAN ON CHANGING ALL CLAMPS TO NORMAL FLATHEAD SCREWDRIVER ONES WHEN I REPLACE MY HOSES because it is really annoying knowing that your job is done but it takes longer to tighten them clamps again than it did to change the filter! LOL

Anyways... THANKS AGAIN TO ALL WHO CONTRIBUTED to this DIY. It was VERY HELPFUL!

Migz
 
#41 ·
tried changing my fuel filter today. no joy, i just couldnt get the rubber hoses off the filter. tried prying it with a screwdriver, thin nose pliers, nothing helped! they were wedged on solid. maybe i just didnt have enough space to get enough leverage as the car was on jacks. not a happy bunny, was hoping i'd get it sorted today :cry:
 
#45 ·
tried changing my fuel filter today. no joy, i just couldnt get the rubber hoses off the filter. tried prying it with a screwdriver, thin nose pliers, nothing helped! they were wedged on solid. :cry:
A possible solution is to use an exacto knife to cut 1/4 inch from the hose. This will make it easier to pull the hose off. Try all your removal techniques. There is enough slack in the lines to cut away a second 1/4 inch if the lines stay wedged on solid.
 
#42 ·
...just wondering if anyone got any tips?... is it best to have the car up on ramps (something i havent got)?.. or is it a matter of just twisting the life out of it?.. i was worried about being under the car with just jacks as last thing i want it is falling on my head!!
 
#44 ·
Get a trim tool - it has a screw driver handle and a forked metal end. Looks like a mini pry bar. If you use this, you can pry both sides of the hose at the same time and it will come off. Much more effective than just using a screw driver to pry one side at a time.
 
#43 ·
Hi,

Do not get under the car unless it is up on jack stands. They can be had for $15 so not using them is foolish in my opinion. Once it's up on the stands try to push the car off before crawling under. That should give you a more secure feeling.

I don't mean to be insulting with this question, but did you get the clamps off before trying to pull the hoses off? Mine came off quite easily and I can't imagine they could get "frozen" on. If all else fails you can cut the hose off right past the nipple. Make sure you have enough "play" left to reconnect though.

Good luck!!

Tom
 
#46 ·
thanks for the tips guys, i havent got jack stands, but know someone who has some ramps. i will try and get the front end up and hopefully with give me enough space underneath. i dont have a trim tool, hopefully with the car on ramps i will be able to get enough leverage to pull the hoses off. i must say they did seem real hard, almost plastic like. i will give it another shot soon!
 
#47 ·
finally got it fitted, took it to a local garage and they charged me £10 here in the UK which is like $15 i think. not bad!
 
#48 ·
found my 325i is so low I can't use ramps so I always use hydraulic jack and block it for safety. I would never re-use the rubber hoses so whenever I do something like this I always make a slit in the rubber hose to release it from the nipple. It only cost a few bucks (or less) for enough hose to replace all the hoses.
 
#57 · (Edited)
I just did this today. I couldn't get the hoses off at all. I was running out of patience, so I took the new filter to Autozone and grabbed some new fuel line. I think I got it a tad bit small. I got 1/4" tubing, because it fit nice and snug in the story. However, it doesn't slide all the way down the shaft, so I just pushed them on as far as they could go and clamped them. The tube won't come of, and doesn't leak. I guess my only concern is that the internal diameter is about the same as the hard lines. The original tubing looks slightly wider.

Anyway, I just took some snips and cut all three hoses. I used a golf tee to plug the blue line that leaks gas and then I used a box cutter to cut the hose off the hard lines. It only slid off the front one. The back ones were on there good. Only cutting worked. Be careful though. I think the hard lines are plastic.

I'm wondering if I should grab some thicker fuel line and reconnect the filter. Is that just being anal? PEACE.
 
#59 · (Edited)
I went and grabbed it, and it's 1/4" tubing. That's 6.4mm, and I think the fuel filter uses 7mm tubing. Just a little heads-up. Autozone sells the stuff cheap, but I think only in standard. So if you get hose, I assume 9/32" would be the best way to go. The hose is just a couple bucks, and a foot is more than enough. I'll probably switch the hose to 7mm hose when I jack the car up next for the diff oil and short shifter. PEACE.

EDIT: I think this is the fuel system hose: 32411097164
That's an 8mmx13mm tube. 8mm inner diameter, and 13mm outer diameter. That should make it easy to buy hose and clamps. Sorry for the confusion before. I shoulda done more research.
 
#62 ·
great tutorial

I followed the tutorial and the entire DIY went totally trouble free...which is actually kinda unusual. Tips for purging fuel line and charging the fuel filter in the end worked great. There was very small amount spill from the big front tube. Most of the gas was from the old filter itself, and nothing came out of the twin tubes from the back. I concurred with the writer that the hardest part was getting the big front tube off. The other steps were not too bad. Again, great tutorial. Thanks alot!
 
#63 ·
using the caps from the new filter was a great tip, thanks!

i didn't pull fuse 54, but there wasn't ass much spillage as i thought there would be. the front hose spilled the most. then on the rear hoses, i plugged them with the caps that came on the new filter and that resulted in very little fuel leakage. ended up taking me 1.5 hours (i took a lot of breaks, it was ridiculously hot outside today :thumbdwn:) disconnecting the hoses took the longest, those things just didn't want to come off. but all in all, a fairly easy DIY. thanks everyone!
 
#64 ·
I wouldn't consider doing this without replacing the 3 sections of rubber fuel line, the clamps AND the short stretch of rubber vacuum tubing between the vacuum line and the front of the filter. My filter, at 88k, was factory original. The clamps were pretty obviously not designed to be reused, since they'd been intentionally deformed so that no hex socket would fit, and the flathead screwdriver slots were rounded off or missing entirely. Auto Zone sells the same Kayser filter with a built-in regulator as the one that came with my car, and at $56 it was cheaper than anything I found online. Note the first one had a manufacturing defect on one of the nipples, though -- check yours.

Get new clamps (6 of them) before you start-don't bother with BMW clamps, just get #4 clamps from any old auto parts store. Get a foot of fuel line hose. And get a 6" stretch of vacuum tubing to replace the 2-3" piece that is almost certainly useless on your old filter.

Note that removing the fuse will most often not accomplish much -- your car may not start at all with the fuse pulled. Worth a shot, but if your car doesn't start, replace the filter anyway. Spillage isn't unmanageable.

About the spillage: if you're on your back and can't get away from the fumes or the splashing very quickly (there is barely enough room to get your head past the filter to see what you're doing, unless you elevate both the front and rear of your car -- and I have a small head), wear a mask and put some goggles on. Also, don't wear gloves made of fabric or leather. You'll just marinate your hands in gas. Catch the spillage in something other than a towel. It will take days for the gas smell to come out of the towel -- and don't even think about using your clothes washer to try to get it out while it is still wet with fuel. Your wife will make you pay for a hotel until the smell is out of the house! The best way to catch it would be a large pan - like a baking sheet with a lip around the edges -- auto zone sells these, too. If you don't spill much, it will probably be evaporated before you finish the job.

About the shield, don't bend it out of the way. There are 2 studs sticking out of the frame just above the front subframe, each with 8mm nuts that can easily be removed. Without doing this, you will probably not notice that you've dislodged a piece of foam that prevents the lines going to the engine from rattling around, or that you've freed the fuel line from it's retaining clips while prying the old filter away -- and if your vacuum tube is all rotten like mine was, you'll need the room without the shield in place to clean up the old line and reconnect the filter with new tubing.

That's my 3 cents. Most frustrating filter change I've ever done -- the one-use clamps are shear idiocy, and the shield connected at 5 points, absolute overkill. The crappy vacuum tube is typical for BMW (see all the other posts about vacuum leaks if you've owned your BMW for less than a few hours and haven't heard of these things). In the end, while the location is especially inconvenient if you don't have a lift, it's better than putting it in the engine bay (like my old volvo -- though it was nice replacing a $11 filter with 1 simple tool while standing comfortably next to the car) or under the back seat.
 
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