E46 Fanatics Forum banner

Useful tips for changing FUEL FILTER

75K views 70 replies 51 participants last post by  jeepo23 
#1 ·
Changing the fuel filter is very straight forward. It is extremely easy. Follow the numerous DIY on this board regarding changing the OEM fuel filter.

Here are some tips that you might find useful.

1) The fuel filter is located directly underneath the driver seat on the under carriage of the car.

2) There are two ends on the fuel filter. The IN put is toward the gas tank. The OUT put is toward the front of the car. There is an arrow painted on the fuel filter. Just make sure the arrow is pointing toward the front and you will be OKAY.

3) There is a shield protecting the fuel filter from getting all banged up. Use 8mm socket to remove the nuts.

4) After removing the shield, the fuel filter is secured by a bracket. Use a 10mm socket to remove it.

5) The hose are secure by a bunch of clamps. Use a "flat top" screw driver to loosen the clamps. To tighten the clamps use a 7/32 socket or a pair of plier. You CANNOT tigten the clamps with a flat top screw driver.

6) Remove the rubber hose by wedging a screw driver on the rubber hose while pulling and twisting the fuel filter.

7) Be prepare to have lots and lots of fuel leakage. Clean fuel immediately. FUel will evaporate faster when smear around rather than sitting in a puddle.


SAFETY TIPS

1) Change fuel filter only in well ventilated area. I was changing my fuel filter outside and yet I still feel sick.

2) Have a fire extinguisher ready in case. Would you rather take the time to buy or find a fire extinguisher than have your car destroy or blow up?

3) When removing the fuel line or when fuel are leaking out, make sure you priodically ground yourself from static electricity. Just touch all the metal/steal components underneath your car every two-three minutes or so.
 
See less See more
#2 ·
I just changed my fuel filter last weekend. While simple, it's a pain with all the gas that pours out. Make sure that you have a pan to catch and spills. If you're really smart use a couple of golf tees to plug the lines while getting the new filter ready.

While I love working on cars this is one thing that sucks.
 
#3 ·
clamp the hoses

FYI,
I changed mine last year. I bought red plastic clamps at the auto parts store, they cost me like $3. I clamped both inlet and outlet hoses as close to the filter as possible and kept the filter horizontal while removing it. I didn't have any fuel spill out at all.. Took about 20 min..
 
#6 ·
I just replaced my fuel filter, and had some more tips.

I depressurized the fuel system by pulling fuse 54 and running and revving the car until it died. This resulted in very little fuel spillage, what was spilled was just what was in the old filter. As I emptied the old filter, all the gas had black stuff in it, along with small particulate matter, like sand. The hose clamps are a bit difficult to close when they are covered in fuel, but you must use a pair of pliers. After everything was buttoned up, I let the car sit with the key in position 2 for a few seconds to build up the fuel pressure, but I still had to crank it twice. My service engine soon light was on, and the engine was running very roughly and had a significant loss of power. After driving around for about five min., everything was fine. The light went out and the engine was running smoother than before. Also, it seemed as if the engine was a bit peppier than before as a result of the new filter. I have just over 65K miles, so anyone in that mileage might want to replace theirs as well.
 
#7 ·
davidwarren said:
I just replaced my fuel filter, and had some more tips.

I depressurized the fuel system by pulling fuse 54 and running and revving the car until it died. This resulted in very little fuel spillage, what was spilled was just what was in the old filter. As I emptied the old filter, all the gas had black stuff in it, along with small particulate matter, like sand. The hose clamps are a bit difficult to close when they are covered in fuel, but you must use a pair of pliers. After everything was buttoned up, I let the car sit with the key in position 2 for a few seconds to build up the fuel pressure, but I still had to crank it twice. My service engine soon light was on, and the engine was running very roughly and had a significant loss of power. After driving around for about five min., everything was fine. The light went out and the engine was running smoother than before. Also, it seemed as if the engine was a bit peppier than before as a result of the new filter. I have just over 65K miles, so anyone in that mileage might want to replace theirs as well.
I just did my fuel filter this afternoon - the tip to pull that fuse was great, thanks! Had very little fuel spillage. One tip on top of yours, turn the key to Position 2 several times until you hear all the air flushed out of the new filter - you'll avoid the check engine and hard starting. Mine started smooth as butter on the first try after I did that.

Scott
 
#9 ·
Surk said:
Just did my FF today also.. changed all the fuel hoses in that area for good measure.. Pulled Fuse 54 and worked great..

FYI>>to plug off any fuel lines from spillage\drips after filter is removed..I used rubber caps off a tire valve.. :thumbup:

Good Idea replacing the fuel hoses. I think I need to get my fuel hose replace because my car is reporting a fuel leak. I recently replaced my fuel cap so I know that it must be the hose itself
 
#11 ·
Great tips... I know I will look at this again when Im ready to do mine. Thanks Bill for the tips :)
 
#15 ·
As a protest to e46fanatics.com I am no longer providing FREE technical assistance and FREE installation on my DIY.

To those people that I assisted in the past, it was fun meeting and working with you. For everyone else, I am sorry. People on e46fanatics nowadays care more about the OFF TOPIC page then contributing or helping members out.
 
#18 ·
Mikaly said:
How much clearance do I need to change the fuel filter? Do you guys think rhino ramps (~+8inches) on the fronts be enough to do this?

Here's approximately what it looks like (my car is just slightly lower):

Yeah that should be enough. I did mine before I lowered the car and didnt even need to lift it. Heck if your driveway has a slight slope in it you can put the back wheels in the street and the front on the driveway making a perfect gap under the car to get to it.
 
#23 ·
A fuel filter is changed every Inspection II. If you don't ever change your fuel filter then bad stuff will make it's way into your engine, or it will clog and starve your engine of fuel. Then you'll pay $4000 diagnosing why your engine blew up when it is really just a clogged fuel filter for $20.

If in doubt, change it anyway. It can't hurt.
 
#24 ·
One more hint: If you plan to replace the fuel hoses, then be sure to have some sort of stopper or plug ready (actually, two; the golf tees didn't work on the stiff lines) to block the fuel lines coming from the tank, because the lines are metal and can't be pinched like the hoses. I was not planning to replace the hose, but had some spare hose at hand, just in case. Then, the filter was just not coming off the old fuel hoses, so I decided to just cut them off. I had asked the dealer how much fuel would leak out and I was told it was definitely just whatever the lines between the tank and the fuel filter hold. So, I had a 0.5 liter water bottle handy and was patiently waiting for the "few drops" to come out. I thought there'd be some sort of check valve in the lines... Well, I completely filled my 500 ml bottle, and the stuff was still gushing out! Had just filled up earlier the day, too. 16 gallons, here we come!!! To say the least, I was a bit surprised. However, I must say that I had earlier depressurized the fuel rail (doing my S/C install), maybe that makes a difference, I don't know. Just be ready. Pretty stupid if you have to keep one thumb on the fuel line, while using the other hand, your head and both feet to grab a hold of some other container. I actually was able to kick a storage shelf until an aluminum turkey pan dropped out, which I could reach... OMG, certainly my silliest DIY-blunder so far... :rolleyes:
 
#25 · (Edited)
Just finished with this and thought I'd chip in with a couple more tid bits.

You can see that there are two hoses on the "in" side. One is labeled "in" and the other "rtn". The blue line should go in the "rtn" and the black in the "in". I don't think you can hook it up the other way very easily and still attach the "out" side hoses but just in case...

Also, if you want to stop the leaking (in my case, the rtn line leaked like crazy) just use the caps that came with you new filter. They fit right over the line (with the hose removed) and occlude it nicely.

Lastly, if you want to replace the hoses it looks like you have to buy a length of hose and cut the three segments to match. I took mine off and cleaned them with gas. No obvious signs of wear so I just reused mine. I'm going to replace them with the next filter change in about 30K miles.
 
#30 ·
Just finished with this and thought I'd chip in with a couple more tid bits.

You can see that there are two hoses on the "in" side. One is labeled "in" and the other "rtn". The blue line should go in the "rtn" and the black in the "in". I don't think you can hook it up the other way very easily and still attach the "out" side hoses but just in case...

Also, if you want to stop the leaking (in my case, the rtn line leaked like crazy) just use the caps that came with you new filter. They fit right over the line (with the hose removed) and occlude it nicely.

Lastly, if you want to replace the hoses it looks like you have to buy a length of hose and cut the three segments to match. I took mine off and cleaned them with gas. No obvious signs of wear so I just reused mine. I'm going to replace them with the next filter change in about 30K miles.
Great tips. That is exactly what I did too! I ended up having to cut my connecting fuel hoses because they just would not come off the fuel lines. Put new connecting hoses on, lubed inside with some oil and they slipped right onto the fuel lines.
 
#27 · (Edited)
Im sure you can go to your nearest auto parts store and find the right size. I did this yesterday hoses looked fine so I just used 3 new clamps. Hardest part was taking the off the hoses from the old filter and probably leaked a 1/4 of a liter of gasoline.

Tip: Before you remove the old fuel filter you may want to mark on the new filter F for front R for rear and B for bottom (or mark an arrow or I for inside)to avoid possibly installing it the wrong way.


5 VACUUM HOSE BLACK 3,3X1,75 part # 51731257971 (per pelicanparts.com)
 

Attachments

#28 ·
jonny

Did you use regular screwdriver type clamps? Were you able to clamp down the lines? I have bought some of those red $3 clamps and I am thinking of maybe using them. Are there rubber hoses on both sides of the filter?

I believe I did read somewhere that the older 46 models (mine is 98 production) only have one hose in and one hose out. Anybody care to confirm that?
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top