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Old 04-15-2018, 10:05 AM   #1
Curtisx3
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Camshaft vanos codes DIY fixed

So I want to let everyone know what i've gone through with my X3, because I was beyond sick to my stomach and honestly love the car. It takes a chunk of money to even get yourself into a descent BMW, so I understand one not wanting to just “get rid of it”. Hopefully I can help someone in my situation. I needed help in a bad way and luckily I had bits of advice that got me back on track, and passing on my experience can help you too. Given I'm a Marine Mechanic, I still had hurdles to jump just in figuring out this mess. And, of course, so many on here had advice, as they were trying to help, and I do appreciate it. OK...to the story.
My X3 was taken to a local backyard mechanic. Never had a problem with the car. He completes a simple oil change. When I arrive to pick up my car he says "get rid of the POS, it's getting ready to have a lot of problems, just get rid of it". I was livid! Mind you I had about 3 payments left on the car at 535.00 a month. NOT getting rid of the car, period! At least not until I exhaust every effort myself. So...about 3 months later the X3 starts running rough, very hard to start, stalls when I would stop at a light or slow to make a turn, smells like burning oil (sometimes) and the gas mileage was horrific. It was actually embarrassing driving through the grocery store parking lot sounding like a ford pinto on its last leg. It was whistling and screaming, the engine itself was a complete misfire. It was literally on its last leg. Needless to say I was irate and pretty upset at the same time. Not knowing much about BMW's I could only see $$$ signs.
Brought myself to pull the codes and there were about 16. ***55358;***56620; p0012,p0015....camshaft sensors both Intake and exhaust, crankshaft position sensor, vanos, and misfires on every cylinder but #2, ambient temp sensor, MAF... You name it, I had it come up. Car would go I to limp mode, had it towed 5 times in 3 months. CES light on, EML light on, oil light, coolant light, 4x4 and probably a few more I didn't even know I had! (I eventually ordered the V Peak Bluetooth reader and it was soooo worth the money. I used it as I completed each step so I could immediately tell if I had fixed the problem or not. I still use it today just to make sure everything is ok. It was only 25.00 or so)
LISTEN TO ME...try.... at least try to fix the issues yourself. Everyone said "you gotta go to the dealer". WHAT!? The dealer wanted 400 to diagnose and quoted up to 5000\6000 to TRY and repair it (given my codes and what I told them). This was merely an estimate.
Given my car had about 85,000 miles I started with replacing the vanos, but the problem existed. Switched sensors, replaced sensors, same issue. Because of the mileage...I replaced the head gasket and cover. This made a huge difference immediately. It took me about 3 days as I worked during the day, but you could easily do it on a Saturday or a weekend.. 4/5 codes went away as the air/vac issue was directly throwing the codes for the MAF, oil pressure, and those in turn affected other mechanisms. Also as I was doing the oil change I noticed that the mechanic (the one who told me to get rid of the car) had installed the wrong oil filter and crushed one in the canister, this caused dirt and debris to enter in my oil and engine, which in turn probably caused a problem with my vanos. As I changed my oil, I was astounded as to the amount of dirt/sand in it. Pulled my Vanos Solenoids again and they were covered in sludge. Take note here...you CANNOT simply wipe these down or clean with brake cleaner. You need to run a 9 volt battery to them and see if they actually activate, then clean them as you activate them , otherwise you're wasting your time. It's like wiping off a burned spark plug, It may look cleaner, but it will not function any better. Same thing with the fuel Injectors. I removed them, hooked them up to a battery and pushed carb cleaner through as they opened. Best $10.00 I've ever spent (between the battery and carb cleaner). I'm now going to list what steps I took...

Changed oil 3 times total (you don't have to do this, I did it until I got it clean as my incompetent local mechanic didn't close the filter housing) ....activated vanos and cleaned, activated fuel injectors and cleaned, replaced both camshaft sensors and crankshaft sensor(mind you it's a royal pain in the a$$ to get to as its under the starter, which is under the manifold), replaced head gasket and cover, replaced NGK spark plugs with DENSO, replaced coils(Bosch) replaced air filter and cleaned MAF, rewired Ambient Temp Sensor wiring, and replaced cabin air filter. Cleared codes, then drove car and ALL CODES WERE GONE ! I also did one more oil change after 300 miles because the oil was a little dirty and I knew eventually this would interfere with the vanos and throw codes again.
Now I won't lie to you, it was a little pricy and I had moments where I had to walk away for a few hours because...well..certain steps were frustrating. But can you imagine what this would have cost me had I taken it to the dealer?! Most of the work I did needed to be done way before it did it anyway. I'm planning on keeping the car a few more years, so I replaced everything that needed it and would need it in the future ....since I had the car apart and the tools handy.
People are going to tell you that you need to go to the dealer to reset the codes or the EML light or to get it out of limp mode. Hogwash! Or you need to take it to the dealer for software updates after limp mode. Hogwash! Or after replacing the vanos the dealer needs to set the timing or some BS like that...again....Hogwash! All this is incorrect info from someone who has not actually taken the time to work on these cars. Now certain things may need the dealer or a good euro Indy shop, like replacing/checking the timing itself or the camshaft bearing ledges etc
When you pull the codes, look at all of them and their correlation. Take a look at your mileage and do the repairs/replacements that should be done at those intervals. That will help tremendously. The reason BMW suggests that you replace the entire cover when you replace the head gasket is because the cover has a vac canister built in it that is NOT able to be replaced. (You can buy this piece from a company out of Russia for 40 something dollars but I'm not sure how good replacing it would be). If you use the old cover it will eventually cause a vac leak and you will have these codes thrown that are a result of this leak and not the intended code or part....and you will have to repeat this whole procedure again. Many do not know this and replace the gasket and put the old cover on only to have the gasket go again and all the codes reappear in a few months.
I know this post is long but it can save you a heck of a lot of time and money. And do not get rid of your BMW simply because someone or some backyard mechanic is too ignorant or too lazy to look into the problem.
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Old 03-24-2019, 06:11 AM   #2
slide9595
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My exhaust vanos was throwing codes. I replaced the exhaust vanos with a newly ordered one from Tischer (cheapest I've seen so far), and cleaned the intake vanos with some carb cleaner. (didn't get any on the connector part, and let it dry) After that, my car stopped shuddering and acceleration is back to normal.








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Last edited by slide9595; 03-25-2019 at 08:12 AM.
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Old 05-17-2019, 06:57 AM   #3
randybonns
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Quote:
Camshaft vanos codes DIY fixed
write my essay fast

All this is incorrect info from someone who has not actually taken the time to work on these cars. Now certain things may need the dealer or a good euro Indy shop, like replacing/checking the timing itself or the camshaft bearing ledges etc
When you pull the codes, look at all of them and their correlation. Take a look at your mileage and do the repairs/replacements that should be done at those intervals. That will help tremendously. The reason BMW suggests that you replace the entire cover when you replace the head gasket is because the cover has a vac canister built in it that is NOT able to be replaced. (You can buy this piece from a company out of Russia for 40 something dollars but I'm not sure how good replacing it would be). If you use the old cover it will eventually cause a vac leak and you will have these codes thrown that are a result of this leak and not the intended code or part....and you will have to repeat this whole procedure again. Many do not know this and replace the gasket and put the old cover on only to have the gasket go again and all the codes reappear in a few months.
I know this post is long but it can save you a heck of a lot of time and money. And do not get rid of your BMW simply because someone or some backyard mechanic is too ignorant or too lazy to look into the problem.
I found a tutorial how to diagnose BMW vanos faults. Any experience with cleaning Vanos solenoids? I've a 2008 BMW 328xi and need help - I checked the oil level and everything seems to be fine. A couple of weeks ago I had to change the oil level sensor, as it showed the INACTIVE message. _sl_

Last edited by randybonns; 05-17-2019 at 06:58 AM. Reason: typos
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Old 05-17-2019, 10:15 AM   #4
Trunganh1131
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I remember that I replaced the vanos with a new one when I ordered it many days ago, I felt that the price was very cheap and could be cleaned with detergents. After using it, my car was better, it was very good
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Old 06-02-2019, 07:58 PM   #5
lovelash
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I'm getting 2A82 along with Limp mode (3100). The car has been throwing 2A82 even before a tune was ever installed. It only happens under full WOT about 50% of the time.
I'm going to replace the the intake solenoid and seals when the part arrives. I'm worried that that wont fix it due to other research and claimed fixes. Has anybody ever eliminated fault code 2A82 by simply changing the solenoid???????????
https://get-9apps.com Vidmate https://get-cartoonhd.com _sl_

Last edited by lovelash; 06-04-2019 at 12:48 AM.
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Old 06-18-2019, 02:40 AM   #6
Deb145
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Good that you mentioned the high price tag. I wish I could see when you wanted to walk away for a few hours. And yes, it would have cost you even more if you had I taken it to the dealer. By the way, you can have your book critique sample essay written by the real professionals. _sl_

Last edited by Deb145; 06-18-2019 at 02:44 AM.
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Old 06-20-2019, 11:25 PM   #7
323i jlviii
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Ok, long time since I've been posting, but as I read into different posts I'm wondering do I ask the dumb questions. Yes, comes to mind right away. My wife's X3 started making a scary sound on the way home from a long trip - 1800 miles. regular oil changes, fluids, transmission oil. Then there is was - the flutter sound, higher speeds 70-80mph when I'd take my foot off the gas peddle. As long as I kept my foot slightly on the gas, the sound would stop? maybe I just couldn't make it out. Disa was the first first thing that came to mind, the pin side snapped and the rest could go . . . anytime??? I'm still 700 miles from home!
She got us home - promised her I'd delv into it. After pulling everything off, I slid out the disa valve - solid, no play, but geez was it gross. Dirty, blow back pcv black what?? So I need to go deeper, ordered valve cover gaskets, some hoses, filters. But what else would give a flutter sound?? Starts fine, Runs fine, maybe alittle slow on the response, but it's always been.
Any ideas would be great appreciated -
thanks!
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