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///M3 Forum
The BMW E46 ///M3 is the M version E46 and puts out an amazing 333 HP and 262 lb-ft of torque at stock specs! There are an amazing amount of modifications for both the coupe and convertible models so read up and get started modifying your cars today!

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Old 03-30-2020, 06:01 PM   #21
Subbyrocks
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Is that in addition to the factory spec diff fluid?

I was under the impression that the specified fluid had the friction additive included?


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Old 03-30-2020, 06:44 PM   #22
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Is that in addition to the factory spec diff fluid?

I was under the impression that the specified fluid had the friction additive included?
it does, and the OE spec is great stuff.
but you can add more by itself standalone. that "rubbing" in corners like it's snagging something is something that can be helped with more friction modifier in many cases.

after doing the cycle of figure-8s to get new diff fluid to work into the system. only thing that remedied my weeks long issue after fluid change was more FM.
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Old 03-31-2020, 03:05 PM   #23
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So I found a new shop that agrees that something sounds funny with all this. Heís more of a specialty shop and actually rolls an e46 M3 himself.

Gonna take her by tomorrow or the next and have a look see.
Iíll keep yíall abreast.


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Old 03-31-2020, 06:21 PM   #24
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So I found a new shop that agrees that something sounds funny with all this. Heís more of a specialty shop and actually rolls an e46 M3 himself.

Gonna take her by tomorrow or the next and have a look see.
Iíll keep yíall abreast.
hope itís something as easy as FM, will save you a ton of money and time.
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OE CSL WHEELS - OE CSL BRAKES - OE AUTOFLD MIRRORS - CSL RACK - CSL TRUNK - CSL DIFFUSER - AA TUNE - AA PULLEYS - AS 40% SSK - BILSTEIN PSS9s
CF CSL LIP - NAV- BMWP CF STRUT BAR - BMW GROUP N MNTS - GRUPPE M CF INTAKE - SUPERSPRINT - UUC S/S LINES, RTABs - H&R SWAYS - 4.10 M-SPORT DIFF
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Old 03-31-2020, 06:39 PM   #25
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Yeah, me too. I have a pile of work to do on this little lady to get her back to her elite status!

My last list of items to buy was just shy of 2k in bits here and there.


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Old 04-02-2020, 06:45 PM   #26
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Sooooo, worst possible situation.

Diff is cooked, most def.

Also, a major factor is that Iím apparently missing my lower and upper strut brace which is apparently very dangerous... this is adding to the diff problem.

Also, my front control arm bushings are cooked and need to be replaced.

Also, found that my sub frame is cracked...

Diff mounts, transmission mounts, subframe reinforcements.... just shy of 9k...

FML.


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Old 04-02-2020, 06:51 PM   #27
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Sorry to hear that man. That sucks and I feel your pain. One thing I can say is that if you put the money into doing the diff, RACP reinforcement and all the rubber suspension components when youíre in there (most are probably ready to be replaced and might as well do it when you lower the subframe) it will drive as nicely as the day it rolled off the dealer lot. I went through all that last fall - but at least my diff was still good. Only the pinion seals were leaking.

Good luck with it.




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Old 04-02-2020, 07:11 PM   #28
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Yeah, tough, jagged little pill man. I really donít know if itís worth it to be honest. With all the other **** thatís gotta be done...

I dunno. Sad day


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Old 04-03-2020, 10:41 AM   #29
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Whether to dump $9K into it really needs to be considered.

There are any number of fixed M3s for sale, one Individual in Dakar Yellow for example for $19K with all this stuff fixed.
If you decide to plump for the $$ fixes, make sure you save all your receipts and consider a declared value insurance policy. All it takes is one tap in the front and $8K of repairs to total your car...you may also contact your insurance company and see if they have an option for extra insurance; I have Progressive and have added several thousand onto mine to make up for the otherwise Dinan bits.
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Old 04-07-2020, 01:44 AM   #30
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In terms of PM while there, subframe mounts and reinforcement if not done. Might aswell get rtabs done, get rear springs checked to make sure they're not cracked. Guibo, driveshaft bearing. If high milleage or salt area car i would advise getting the rear hard brake lines done too. They rust pretty bad and iirc the diff needs to be dropped and the gas tank to get to them.

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Old 04-07-2020, 01:58 AM   #31
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Just saw this
Upper and lower Strut brace missing in the front? Not all m3s came with the upper front strut brace, none came with upper rears. There's no front lower strut brace. There is a front reinforcement plate which is important you have but that's not a brace. If you're missing the reinforcement plate in the front get it asap, and have your strut towers inspected. They could be cracked or mushroomed. Buy the reinforcement plates for the struts and the rear shocks if you don't have them. (aftermarket item did not come stock but is well needed)
No m3 came with a rear lower strut support brace either. There's a rear lower chassis brace but that's different.
M3 Diffs are garbage especially if you don't do the fluid changes. Even then they still fail frequently. My car had 3 put in while it was still in warranty. Its bad again but out of warranty and I'm dealing with it.
Get a used low milleage one and trsut you'll get some time or if u want to spend more buy a new ring and pinion, bearings and have a shop swap the internals from a used one. If your lsd is still fine in the diff but the ring or pinion is damaged you can have your case rebuilt. Or buy a rebuilt one online.
Which subframe is cracked front or rear? Which did you get reinforced, both or just the rear? The rear is the problematic one but people still have issues with the fronts. Get both done if they aren't, and whichever subframe is cracked i would recommend getting one online or from a junkyard if possible. Have it inspected for cracks then reinforced. Whoever did it last time either didnt do it properly or most likely it was already cracked slightly and they missed it.
Front control arm bushings are common, get the rears done too. They don't look as bad when failed but cause vibration issues.

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Old 04-13-2020, 09:53 AM   #32
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M3 Diffs are garbage especially if you don't do the fluid changes. Even then they still fail frequently. My car had 3 put in while it was still in warranty. Its bad again but out of warranty and I'm dealing with it.

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You're experience sucks but it does not mean ours diffs are trash. Going through 3 means they weren't installed properly. Most likely backlash wasn't adjusted properly or not enough fluid was used. BMW wasn't just making defective diffs left and right. One bad diff, maybe. Two is highly unlikely. Three is pretty much impossible. Since you're on your fourth, I will say, the stealership really screwed you. Our diffs get ragged on usually. If they don't, they will last a very long time. It's hard to see but personal experience doesn't always equate to how things are in general. It really sucks you need a 5th differential but now you can do it right.

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