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E46 Xi Forum
The E46 XI was produced from 01-05 in sedan and touring body styles. Powered by either a 2.5L inline 6 in the 325xi or a 3.0L inline 6 330xi. Discuss all thing about BMW AWD E46 'Xi' here.

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Old 08-10-2013, 08:57 PM   #1
vman88888
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Extra air getting sucked into the intake manifold?

is this possible? my mechanic said he thinks extra air is getting into the manifold somehow
i though it probably would be leaking if anything. he also said one or more of the injector seals could be causing the issue

just want to hear from others to get some more opinions

i had to write this quick so if any other info is needed just ask

thanks



also sidenote if i wanted to upgrade injectors what would you recommend from the stock 24lb (i believe they are) escp. if f/i is possible in the future
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Old 08-12-2013, 02:47 PM   #2
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Of course it's possible. Intake manifolds operate under vacuum. Get some carb or brake parts cleaner and spray at some of the joints and suspected leak points. You'll hear a change in idle when you hit the spot.
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Old 08-12-2013, 03:57 PM   #3
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I recommend you check your upper and lower intake boots for tears as those are the most common areas to leak air into your intake system.
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Old 08-12-2013, 06:10 PM   #4
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i checked both boots and they have no rips whatsoever ill try the cleaner trick i plan on rebuilding the injectors with new seals and whatnot but are there seals in the intake manifold that commonly fail? the car has 1355XX miles
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Old 08-13-2013, 03:56 PM   #5
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What kind of condition are you having that prompted your mechanic to say that there is "unmetered air" going thru the intake? I agree with SamDoe1, the upper and lower intake boots are very prone to cracking and this will cause unmetered air to enter the intake system and mess with the fuel/air mixture since the extra air isn't being "read" by the computer (a lean condition). You need to remove both intake boots and carefully inspect them on the "bottom sides" between the "ribs" as this is where you will find cracking and/or tears. If they show signs of cracking, they need to be replaced. Be careful when removing to inspect that you do not break the "F" connector. If you are having a lean condition, and the intake boots are ok, inspect all the other vacuum hoses AND do a Fault Code Scan as it will tell you if you have a fuel/air mixture problem. If you do have a lean condition and slight drivability issues, it can be as simple as the Intake Manifold Resonance Valve flapper being broken. This in itself will cause a lean condition and drivability issues. That valve is easy to remove and inspect, and is also prone to failures. If all the vacuum hoses check ok, the intake boots check ok and the valve is ok, then use some carb cleaner and spray around the intake and injectors with the car running to see if there is a speed increase. Smoke can also be used as it would be sucked into the leaking area.
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:03 PM   #6
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Intake boot, crankcase ventilation, EGR line, fuel pressure regulator line, etc... Plenty of places for a vacuum leak.

Injector seals are common on some cars, but it's pretty rare on the E46 so long as they injectors haven't been removed before.

Also, no point upgrading the injectors. If you put in bigger injectors, the ECU will compensate by injecting during a shorter period of time. Injecting over a shorter period of time usually has a small effect, but it usually means worse running at idle, worse emissions, and worse gas mileage.
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Old 08-13-2013, 04:40 PM   #7
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if i remember correctly the codes were fuel bank line 1 and a code for my cps sensor , i ordered the rebuild kit for my injectors and an new sensor

he said the idle air mass was avg 17 kg/s (i believe thats the correct unit)

i cleaned the TB and intake manifold resonance valve also know as the DISA right?
with the intake manifold resonance valve what would specific issues would i be looking for?
the flap seems solid and if i move it it goes back into position unless moved a couple of times, but im guessing that it probably wont function correctly if its not powered (meaning it might not go back into place always)

the injectors might have been removed im not sure in the 4th owner so its possible

i checked the boots and they have zero cracks and tears i checked them over very carefully

i thought it might be ccv but i dont want to jump into that project until i rule everything else out

also ok to the injectors ill stay with the stock ones thanks for letting me know

thanks for all the responses so far!

edit: im gonna try to post a video of me revving the engine because it seems that the revs are dropping a little slow

Last edited by vman88888; 08-13-2013 at 05:20 PM.
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Old 08-13-2013, 06:36 PM   #8
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heres the video sorry for bad quality

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Old 08-13-2013, 06:38 PM   #9
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cant get the video to work how do i insert a youtube vid?

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Old 08-13-2013, 07:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vman88888 View Post
cant get the video to work how do i insert a youtube vid?
Look on the Youtube video's page for the share tab and click on it. It will give you a link, copy it and paste it in your post, no need to do anything else. The forum will automatically embed it and make it a viewable video.




Example, paste this in your post: http://youtu.be/MpF6aZ34pCU




and the forum will change it automatically to this:

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Old 08-14-2013, 06:49 AM   #11
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yes it worked thanks mkodama

edit: my first vid sorry for bad quality and shakyness

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Old 08-14-2013, 10:23 AM   #12
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When you re-installed the Disa, did you use a new gasket or some kind of gasket maker? When I took mine off around 115,000 miles the seal was obviously worn and letting air and debris pass through. After cleaning/inspecting I used Rtv sealant to seal it back up!

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Old 08-14-2013, 10:35 AM   #13
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Also, on the topic of Disa inspection.. there is a diaphragm inside the disa that can go bad. You can search on here for better instructions. But, basically you turn the valve and plug a vacuum hole and release the valve, if it holds in place the diaphragm is still good.
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Old 08-14-2013, 02:52 PM   #14
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What codes do you have from the check engine light? And fill your washer fluid reservoir and fix your tail lights while you're at it.
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Old 08-14-2013, 04:13 PM   #15
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haha yeah i was gonna fill up the fluid but i wanna get a new headlight washer pump first also i got the bulbs just havent put them in tryin to iron out everything else first

also ill try that with the disa

the codes were the intake cps and fuel bank trim 1 i think it was something like that my mechanic had the scanner and autozone only read the intake cps so i have to go back to my mechanic to get it read and hes always busy

also Blu, what sealant did you use?

thanks
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Old 08-14-2013, 04:51 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by vman88888 View Post
haha yeah i was gonna fill up the fluid but i wanna get a new headlight washer pump first also i got the bulbs just havent put them in tryin to iron out everything else first

also ill try that with the disa

the codes were the intake cps and fuel bank trim 1 i think it was something like that my mechanic had the scanner and autozone only read the intake cps so i have to go back to my mechanic to get it read and hes always busy

also Blu, what sealant did you use?

thanks
Headlight washer is worthless. It doesn't do anything but make a huge mess on your hood. Mine has been disconnected for years.

If your intake CPS is shot and throwing codes then you should probably replace it. The fuel trim codes could be related.
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Old 08-14-2013, 07:35 PM   #17
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i just got the cps sensor but it was used cause i dont have alot of money it came off a 530i which uses the same m54 right? the guy said compatible with 330
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Old 08-14-2013, 08:50 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by vman88888 View Post
haha yeah i was gonna fill up the fluid but i wanna get a new headlight washer pump first also i got the bulbs just havent put them in tryin to iron out everything else first

also ill try that with the disa

the codes were the intake cps and fuel bank trim 1 i think it was something like that my mechanic had the scanner and autozone only read the intake cps so i have to go back to my mechanic to get it read and hes always busy

also Blu, what sealant did you use?

thanks
A camshaft position sensor is crucial to engine management and can cause the problem you are having.
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Old 08-15-2013, 07:18 AM   #19
vman88888
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just snapped the nearest ccv hose trying to replace the sensor going to bmw to pay 130 bucks for the kit
its around 130 right? (4 hoses and separator)

also looked BAD inside the hose (nasty oil gunk about a third of the hose or more was clogged around the sides)
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Old 08-15-2013, 11:41 AM   #20
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just snapped the nearest ccv hose trying to replace the sensor going to bmw to pay 130 bucks for the kit
its around 130 right? (4 hoses and separator)

also looked BAD inside the hose (nasty oil gunk about a third of the hose or more was clogged around the sides)
It won't be $130 at the dealer...but you can order it online for that price.
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