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Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 06-06-2019, 07:15 AM   #7141
Iliyasuper
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Originally Posted by scorpionreptyle View Post
Yes,but they are intended for US cars, for EU theoretically can be slightly enhanced,and still be safe. They work on stages to,i have first stage,gathered from dedicated users that have my gratitude and main reason for sharing some of files that i use is for them to have access to.
Also,shark tunes seems to be by far the most complex and prone to gaining results (not much but they do something) next to Motorenwerke - focused on power,so ,kind of extreme.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Dv...XgyuOIqyjlu5-T


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Thank you !
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Old 06-06-2019, 08:58 PM   #7142
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I need some tuning insight.

I just did M56 cover and fixed a bunch of air leaks. My tune was apparently done with air leaks so Im having to readjust fueling, starting with idle. Ive gotten it to the point where it will idle stably at 14.7, but when I rev the motor and let it fall to idle, it leans out and dies. With the o2 sensor unplugged, it idles at 12.5, and if I rev it, it will return to idle normally and not die. Is there a factor for o2 sensor responsiveness or delay I should fix?

Also, with the M56 cover, Im getting alot of smoke from the tailpipe on idle and rev. Could possibly be the old oil in the cover, but not sure. Any insight there?
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Old 06-06-2019, 08:58 PM   #7143
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Old 06-07-2019, 01:58 AM   #7144
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I need some tuning insight.

I just did M56 cover and fixed a bunch of air leaks. My tune was apparently done with air leaks so Im having to readjust fueling, starting with idle. Ive gotten it to the point where it will idle stably at 14.7, but when I rev the motor and let it fall to idle, it leans out and dies. With the o2 sensor unplugged, it idles at 12.5, and if I rev it, it will return to idle normally and not die. Is there a factor for o2 sensor responsiveness or delay I should fix?

Also, with the M56 cover, Im getting alot of smoke from the tailpipe on idle and rev. Could possibly be the old oil in the cover, but not sure. Any insight there?
add fuel in the entire range of load and rpm values in the idle speed tables
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Old 06-07-2019, 08:55 AM   #7145
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Add fuel? But without the o2 it's already running rich


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Old 06-07-2019, 01:21 PM   #7146
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Add fuel? But without the o2 it's already running rich


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you said it leans out. obviously is rich at idle but with no extra load.
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Old 06-09-2019, 03:49 PM   #7147
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Add fuel? But without the o2 it's already running rich


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I had smoke with m56 valve cover , apparently I had a lot of crankcase pressure , it took 2 , 10an lines to stabilize it , and on idle I have smoke coming out catch cans with slightly positive pressure
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Old 06-09-2019, 06:24 PM   #7148
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Have others had this issue with M56 cover?
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Old 06-11-2019, 01:18 PM   #7149
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Got some questions about ignition timing and knock.
So for some reason. My bank 1 always sees higher knock voltage than bank 2.
Iíve come to understand that 1.8 knock voltage should be the max we want to see as that is what the ECU sets as its max allowed noise level. Although I donít understand completely how to interpret voltage. Reading from tuning material from some company. They claim 3.5-4v would indicate a knock event.

Bank 1 would see max 1.8 volts with my own vanos timing. I set it cams to stock to see if it made a difference, 2 runs I did showed bank 1 at 1.77 then 1.78. This is with just 3į degrees of advance. When logging, there doesnít seem to be an ignition retard at this point. It seems to happen around 4000-4200 rpm. When noises is the highest, no matter the loud. Although full loud at the rpm creates max noise.

Iím wondering if you guys have any insight on this. I thought 3į would be best. But as scorpionreptyle and sharktune have indicated, they run 7į max.
I live in Florida where humidity and heat is high.





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Old 06-11-2019, 01:21 PM   #7150
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Biggest MS43 tuning thread ever! Incl software...

Got some questions about ignition timing and knock.
So for some reason. My bank 1 always sees higher knock voltage than bank 2.
Whether with a stock tune or not, but I canít remember the values knock sensors presented with a stock tune.
Iíve come to understand that 1.8 knock voltage should be the max we want to see as that is what the ECU sets as its max allowed noise level. Although I donít understand completely how to interpret voltage. Reading from tuning material from some company. They claim 3.5-4v would indicate a knock event.

Bank 1 would see max 1.8 volts with my own vanos timing. I set it cams to stock to see if it made a difference, 2 runs I did showed bank 1 at 1.77 then 1.78. This is with just 3į degrees of ignition and advance and stock vanos. When logging, there doesnít seem to be an ignition retard at this point. It seems to happen around 4000-4200 rpm. When noises is the highest, no matter the load. Although full loud at the rpm creates max noise.

Iím wondering if you guys have any insight on this. I thought 3į would be best. But as scorpionreptyle and sharktune have indicated, they run 7į max.

Iím mostly curious as to why bank 1 is creating the most noise. Also, how to interpret knock voltage. Obviously more noise the worse. But how exactly to analyze it would be great as I canít find any more outside material.
I live in Florida where humidity and heat is high.







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__________________
IN SEARCH OF
CONVERTIBLE INTERIOR CARBON FIBER OR PIANO BLACK TRIM
ORIENT BLUE M3 VERT FRONT BUMPER
ORIENT BLUE VERT PRE-FACELIFT FRONT FENDERS

Last edited by d_cleverzz; 06-11-2019 at 01:23 PM.
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Old 06-11-2019, 02:05 PM   #7151
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d_cleverzz View Post
Got some questions about ignition timing and knock.
So for some reason. My bank 1 always sees higher knock voltage than bank 2.
Whether with a stock tune or not, but I can’t remember the values knock sensors presented with a stock tune.
I’ve come to understand that 1.8 knock voltage should be the max we want to see as that is what the ECU sets as its max allowed noise level. Although I don’t understand completely how to interpret voltage. Reading from tuning material from some company. They claim 3.5-4v would indicate a knock event.

Bank 1 would see max 1.8 volts with my own vanos timing. I set it cams to stock to see if it made a difference, 2 runs I did showed bank 1 at 1.77 then 1.78. This is with just 3į degrees of ignition and advance and stock vanos. When logging, there doesn’t seem to be an ignition retard at this point. It seems to happen around 4000-4200 rpm. When noises is the highest, no matter the load. Although full loud at the rpm creates max noise.

I’m wondering if you guys have any insight on this. I thought 3į would be best. But as scorpionreptyle and sharktune have indicated, they run 7į max.

I’m mostly curious as to why bank 1 is creating the most noise. Also, how to interpret knock voltage. Obviously more noise the worse. But how exactly to analyze it would be great as I can’t find any more outside material.
I live in Florida where humidity and heat is high.



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you cant interpret knock by sensors voltage. There is a more complex way for ecu to establish if it is or not a knock event. Just log and see if timing is dropping comparing with whats on your map or just by looking at. Knowing your car is impossible to not feel the drop in power when it occures. From what i`ve done by now, 10 degs advance is safe enough for EU,and made an improvement over part throttle experience. Its impossible to knock with 5 degs advance , less probable with 3. you are spending your time analysing sensors noises than doing runs and logs.... In the end,if you get knock,your ecu will react and fix the timing,and you will feel it and back down a bit. Nothing gonna blow if you take a trip or two and encounter this issue.
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Old 06-11-2019, 02:12 PM   #7152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scorpionreptyle View Post
you cant interpret knock by sensors voltage. There is a more complex way for ecu to establish if it is or not a knock event. Just log and see if timing is dropping comparing with whats on your map or just by looking at. Knowing your car is impossible to not feel the drop in power when it occures. From what i`ve done by now, 10 degs advance is safe enough for EU,and made an improvement over part throttle experience. Its impossible to knock with 5 degs advance , less probable with 3.


Youíre right. Iím sure Iíd be able to feel power reduction from the ECU pulling timing, but Iíve never had that experience so Iím not quite sure either.
Is there a way I can learn to understand knock voltage best, and noise. Itís gotta be there for a reason. Someone understands it somewhere lol.
Especially for when I got turbo, I want to keep noise to a minimum. I will be taking timing out accordingly but still would like to understand it better.

From looking at the sharktune, it seems like the yincreased the sensitivity of the knock parameters. But Iím not sure what Iím looking at either.
Thanks for the replies and help scorpion. Much appreciated.




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CONVERTIBLE INTERIOR CARBON FIBER OR PIANO BLACK TRIM
ORIENT BLUE M3 VERT FRONT BUMPER
ORIENT BLUE VERT PRE-FACELIFT FRONT FENDERS

Last edited by d_cleverzz; 06-11-2019 at 10:00 PM.
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Old 06-12-2019, 04:02 AM   #7153
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scorpionreptyle View Post
Yes,but they are intended for US cars, for EU theoretically can be slightly enhanced,and still be safe. They work on stages to,i have first stage,gathered from dedicated users that have my gratitude and main reason for sharing some of files that i use is for them to have access to.
Also,shark tunes seems to be by far the most complex and prone to gaining results (not much but they do something) next to Motorenwerke - focused on power,so ,kind of extreme.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Dv...XgyuOIqyjlu5-T


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Is there an easy way to upgrade those to 0069?
Its aannoying in tuner pro u cant set another xdf for the compare bin. its hard to take notes of all those changes and stuff.
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Old 06-12-2019, 04:23 AM   #7154
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Is there an easy way to upgrade those to 0069?

Its aannoying in tuner pro u cant set another xdf for the compare bin. its hard to take notes of all those changes and stuff.


Unfortunately,i dont know another way. ...open tunerPro and find differences against a stock 056. Then, on a second instance of TunerPro, open a stock 69 and proceed with similar maps in manual mode.
I dont have time now to change another sw version

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Old 06-12-2019, 04:34 AM   #7155
chrisseiner
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Originally Posted by scorpionreptyle View Post
Unfortunately,i dont know another way. ...open tunerPro and find differences against a stock 056. Then, on a second instance of TunerPro, open a stock 69 and proceed with similar maps in manual mode.
I dont have time now to change another sw version

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Okay, I will try my best.

I can't really go down on Software because of the 6-Speed SMG and so on
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Old 06-12-2019, 07:34 AM   #7156
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Does anyone know what the two alternator maps relate to?

ip_cha_bat__tam__vb
ip_cur_alter__n

Cheers!
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Old 06-12-2019, 07:36 AM   #7157
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Quote:
Originally Posted by d_cleverzz View Post
Got some questions about ignition timing and knock.
So for some reason. My bank 1 always sees higher knock voltage than bank 2.
Whether with a stock tune or not, but I canít remember the values knock sensors presented with a stock tune.
Iíve come to understand that 1.8 knock voltage should be the max we want to see as that is what the ECU sets as its max allowed noise level. Although I donít understand completely how to interpret voltage. Reading from tuning material from some company. They claim 3.5-4v would indicate a knock event.

Bank 1 would see max 1.8 volts with my own vanos timing. I set it cams to stock to see if it made a difference, 2 runs I did showed bank 1 at 1.77 then 1.78. This is with just 3į degrees of ignition and advance and stock vanos. When logging, there doesnít seem to be an ignition retard at this point. It seems to happen around 4000-4200 rpm. When noises is the highest, no matter the load. Although full loud at the rpm creates max noise.

Iím wondering if you guys have any insight on this. I thought 3į would be best. But as scorpionreptyle and sharktune have indicated, they run 7į max.

Iím mostly curious as to why bank 1 is creating the most noise. Also, how to interpret knock voltage. Obviously more noise the worse. But how exactly to analyze it would be great as I canít find any more outside material.
I live in Florida where humidity and heat is high.







Sent from my iPhone using E46Fanatics mobile app

There is no 1 level that indicates knock.
It changes with rpm and load.
If you look at the knock maps in tuner Pro you will see that there is 1(min) for rpm-to-knock threshold levels and another that has rpm-to-load.
These get multiplied together with a constant to calculate the dynamically changing knock level threshold.

It all comes down to the fuel you run to calculate knock levels and you need to read out the per cylinder measured knock readings stored in the DME.
RomRaider does it with the learned adaptations read.
Unless you have been clearing the learned knock levels between each tune, I doubt you have been seeing the actual applied spark advance. The DME will interpolate across the 91 and 98 maps to calculate spark advance using the learned knock.
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Old 06-12-2019, 10:21 AM   #7158
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Does anyone know what the two alternator maps relate to?

ip_cha_bat__tam__vb
ip_cur_alter__n

Cheers!
ip_cha_bat__tam__vb calculates the current from or to the battery.

ip_cur_alter__n is the map that tells the ecu what current the alterator delivers.

Both maps are used in the calculation of charge balancing.
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Old 06-12-2019, 10:31 AM   #7159
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Originally Posted by daniel_f. View Post
ip_cha_bat__tam__vb calculates the current from or to the battery.

ip_cur_alter__n is the map that tells the ecu what current the alterator delivers.

Both maps are used in the calculation of charge balancing.
Good to know.

ip_cha_bat__tam__vb has all negative values with -128 being the lowest and -20s the highest.
-128 means max current I'm assuming?

Basically I'm trying to determine how to add an AGM or Lithium battery to the car and alter the charging profile much like how all the newer BMWs work.

AGM have 14.8v charge profile vs Lithium at 13.8 max profile
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Old 06-12-2019, 10:49 AM   #7160
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can someone helpme fast?
i tried to write partial bin and my son pulled the cable

any chance to fix that?
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