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Old 02-24-2020, 06:00 PM   #21
BHarris
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Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: Rochester NY
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My Ride: 2005 330XI
Transmission: GM Auto
Quote:
Originally Posted by King Hill View Post
However I saw two arrows stamped into the drive shafts which seemed to be factory alignment tools.
I noticed those and used them to realign the driveshaft, yet it still floats around in my head as a potential problem.
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Old 02-26-2020, 10:52 PM   #22
jmo69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BHarris View Post
I noticed those and used them to realign the driveshaft, yet it still floats around in my head as a potential problem.
I've only had my e36 driveshaft apart and there are paint marks for aligning. I'm assuming that the indie that put the clutch in it for me marked it so I can't tell you if there are arrows from the factory or not.
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Last edited by jmo69; 02-28-2020 at 11:09 AM.
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Old 02-27-2020, 09:30 AM   #23
BHarris
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Originally Posted by jmo69 View Post
I've only had my e36 driveshaft apart and are paint marks for aligning. I'm assuming that the indie that put the clutch in it for me marked it so I can't tell you if there are arrows from the factory or not.
They must be factory if they're stamped into the driveshaft..... I'm assuming
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Old 02-27-2020, 03:14 PM   #24
jmo69
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Originally Posted by BHarris View Post
They must be factory if they're stamped into the driveshaft..... I'm assuming
Could be, the only way to tell for sure would be to take it out and have it checked for balance.
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Old 03-11-2020, 12:16 PM   #25
BHarris
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Alright y'all, I'm headed home from school for my spring break in a few day and I'm going to replace both of my engine mounts and the transmission/transfer case mount. I've done my reading on other DIY's, are there any other tips I should know from those with experience? Thanks in advance!
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Old 03-11-2020, 12:50 PM   #26
Brewtus79
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My Ride: M3 Vert, 330xi, X5
Year: 2002
Model: M3, 330xi, F15 X5
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Easier to do one side at a time bc you can get more clearance.

I cheaped out and opted to lift engine from the bottom vs bok choy engine support (variety that sits across upper fenders). Not having a jack under the car yields lots more space.

I also found the driver side to be more difficult.

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Old 03-12-2020, 09:42 PM   #27
BHarris
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Thank you for everyone's help! My vibration AND front end clunk is gone. I am beyond relieved. I ended up replacing my engine mounts, transmission mounts, and sway bar end links. The end links were straight forward and fixed the clunks. I ended up replacing the motor mounts first after reading the horror stories of the transmission mount replacement. After I got the new motor mounts in I took her for a test drive and was frankly disappointed. There wasn't a considerable reduction in the vibration I was chasing. That being said the overall experience was wayyyyyy smoother so I'm very glad I did them. Surprisingly the transmission mount, which is one helluva bushing, made the most difference and honestly wasn't too hard to change. Once I figured out how to get it out it was straightforward. I found that cutting/tearing out the middle was the best first step. Then I used a chisel, and large screwdriver in conjunction with a hammer to create a gap on the back of the bushing. Once that was done I used a crow bar and put one edge on the inner lip of the bushing and used a block of wood as a fulcrum to pry it out of the hole. I made sure to be careful in order not to scar the inside of the hole. Took me a few hours to figure out this was the best method. When I put the new mount in I fashioned a press out of two chunks of 2x4 and a large c-clamp. I trimmed them to fit the bushing and hole and with a bit of dish soap the mount slid in without a gripe. Taking the exhaust out is a must. Thank you to all your help and I hope this brief write up can help someone in the future!
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Old 03-14-2020, 11:04 AM   #28
Lolochka69
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I'd like to hear suggestions on this one as well.
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