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Old 02-25-2018, 09:25 PM   #1
VANOSSBEAMER
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Used BMW engines

First quesiton, Should I even consider buying a new one?

Second question, Where do I buy one if I want to.

Also, a little story on my BMW. Coolant reservoir has a crack in it, small head gasket leak started to happen, stopped driving it as soon as I saw the coolant and oil mixing (very little). I need some advice if anyone is willing to give some.
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Old 02-25-2018, 09:59 PM   #2
orb
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1. Unless money is no object
2. eBay or classified section on this website
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Old 02-25-2018, 10:52 PM   #3
armenh7
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You can also check car-part.com. it's fine to buy a used engine, just make sure it isn't overheated. Try to get a back story of why the engine is being sold
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Old 02-25-2018, 11:16 PM   #4
VANOSSBEAMER
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armenh7 View Post
You can also check car-part.com. it's fine to buy a used engine, just make sure it isn't overheated. Try to get a back story of why the engine is being sold
https://store.buyusedengine.com/#/pr...d_engines.html

Would this be an appropriate route?
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Old 02-26-2018, 12:12 AM   #5
armenh7
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Originally Posted by VANOSSBEAMER View Post
https://store.buyusedengine.com/#/pr...d_engines.html

Would this be an appropriate route?
I guess so. Can't really tell much from the limited details but it does have a warranty and returns are allowed. Do some research on that website to make sure it isn't a scam
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Old 02-26-2018, 01:41 AM   #6
drehart
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I bought mine from a recycler that offered a 1 year warranty, and had a video of the car running before it was pulled. Benzeen Auto in Rancho Cordova, CA.
Iím not affiliated with them, and I donít know if they ship.
I would find a place like them locally if you can.
10,000 miles since install with no issues.
I put all new gaskets on the lower end, including the rear main seal, and all new cooling stuff too.


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Old 02-26-2018, 01:53 AM   #7
paraklas
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I also got one from a recycler but that was nearly 10 years ago. I received a video of the engine running from the cluster showing mileage until engine serial. I prefered sourcing an engine from an auto (less chances of abuse, money shift) I am considering an upgrade at the moment but realize that the last M54 engine produced will be more than 10 years old, so unless it has been refurbished, it is bound to have leaks. Planning ahead is to do the following, while on the hoist:

- VANOS
- OFHG
- M56 valve cover+gasket
- water pump
- coolant hoses (the hard ones)
- new o-rings on leaky sensors
- rear main seal
- inspect damper (rubber)
- new tensioners/idlers
- oil pump + oil pump tensioner
- oil pan gasket
- wire tubing (that cracks and falls apart)
- flow test, clean injectors
- starter, alternator
- check whatever else appears to be worn
- CLEANING
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Old 02-26-2018, 02:02 AM   #8
Megalocnus
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Best sources of used engines are crashed cars being parted out. The biggest advantage is that the mileage is only verifiable if the engine is not pulled out of the car - after that, you have to take the seller's word for it.
In many cases it's possible to do a compression test and even to test start the engine before making a decision to purchase. Often times one can also learn things about the engine by inspecting the car. For example - it's not a good sign if there's a lot of soot in the tail pipes.

Of course, sourcing from a part out car can be less convenient than from specialized dismantlers that stock engines and other parts, and may offer shipping or installation.
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Old 02-26-2018, 02:55 AM   #9
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For 323 m52, don't pay more then $500, but it's hard to find low milage considering they were made up to 2001. Best choice would be finding a wrecked low milage 330i and do a full swap. This way you know the mialage and you y
Can test it. Look at your local Craigslist for a wrecked car or a bad transmission one, e46 are old so you should not hard time find it them.

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Old 02-28-2018, 03:36 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Megalocnus View Post
Best sources of used engines are crashed cars being parted out. The biggest advantage is that the mileage is only verifiable if the engine is not pulled out of the car - after that, you have to take the seller's word for it.
In many cases it's possible to do a compression test and even to test start the engine before making a decision to purchase. Often times one can also learn things about the engine by inspecting the car. For example - it's not a good sign if there's a lot of soot in the tail pipes.

Of course, sourcing from a part out car can be less convenient than from specialized dismantlers that stock engines and other parts, and may offer shipping or installation.
So I found a good deal for a B30 motor, 100K miles, out of a 2002 E46. Obviously I will replace whatever is needed around it, but before that, what can I do to verify its internals' condition? I wouldn't want to install and boost it to find out it has issues. Engine is already out of car on pallet. Lets assume I take the seller's word for the mileage. He does offer warranty but it's irrelevant anyway.
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Old 02-28-2018, 04:44 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paraklas View Post
So I found a good deal for a B30 motor, 100K miles, out of a 2002 E46. Obviously I will replace whatever is needed around it, but before that, what can I do to verify its internals' condition? I wouldn't want to install and boost it to find out it has issues. Engine is already out of car on pallet. Lets assume I take the seller's word for the mileage. He does offer warranty but it's irrelevant anyway.
Compression and leak down test are about all the empirical tests you can do once it's pulled.
See if it will turn by hand with a socket and wrench on the crank bolt. Just to make sure it isn't seized up.

A bore scope would be handy if you have one, stick it down the spark plug to take a look at the piston and cylinder wall condition etc... (likely overkill)

If you can get the intake and exhaust manifolds off look for oil on the backsides of the valves, would indicate leaking valve stem seals. Although, depending on how long the engine has sat that may not be any visual clues. (my valve stem seals are leaking and oil is visible on the backside)



Also take a look at the trans mount bolt holes on the block. Make sure they are in good condition. I've run into a few M54s which have stripped, or otherwise damaged threads there. The trans bolts tend to be real buggers unless done carefully.
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Old 02-28-2018, 09:22 PM   #12
Megalocnus
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paraklas View Post
So I found a good deal for a B30 motor, 100K miles, out of a 2002 E46. Obviously I will replace whatever is needed around it, but before that, what can I do to verify its internals' condition? I wouldn't want to install and boost it to find out it has issues. Engine is already out of car on pallet. Lets assume I take the seller's word for the mileage. He does offer warranty but it's irrelevant anyway.
If possible, do compression and leakdown tests.
It takes some preparation to perform these with the engine out of the car, but it's not unthinkable. Obviously the engine should have the flywheel on for either of these, and the compression test will require a starter as well.
Ironically I lost the original engine of my car due a head or headgasket problem that remained a mistery, but it didn't lower the leakdown numbers significantly.

Other easy / must do things that come to mind: pull out and inspect the spark plugs, get a good flash light or a boroscope camera, and take a look at the piston heads. A lot of crud on top, and especially accumulation on some but not all cylinders will not be a good sign.

Good luck.

Last edited by Megalocnus; 02-28-2018 at 09:26 PM.
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Old 03-01-2018, 01:50 AM   #13
paraklas
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HayWagon View Post
Compression and leak down test are about all the empirical tests you can do once it's pulled.
See if it will turn by hand with a socket and wrench on the crank bolt. Just to make sure it isn't seized up.

A bore scope would be handy if you have one, stick it down the spark plug to take a look at the piston and cylinder wall condition etc... (likely overkill)

If you can get the intake and exhaust manifolds off look for oil on the backsides of the valves, would indicate leaking valve stem seals. Although, depending on how long the engine has sat that may not be any visual clues. (my valve stem seals are leaking and oil is visible on the backside)



Also take a look at the trans mount bolt holes on the block. Make sure they are in good condition. I've run into a few M54s which have stripped, or otherwise damaged threads there. The trans bolts tend to be real buggers unless done carefully.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Megalocnus View Post
If possible, do compression and leakdown tests.
It takes some preparation to perform these with the engine out of the car, but it's not unthinkable. Obviously the engine should have the flywheel on for either of these, and the compression test will require a starter as well.
Ironically I lost the original engine of my car due a head or headgasket problem that remained a mistery, but it didn't lower the leakdown numbers significantly.

Other easy / must do things that come to mind: pull out and inspect the spark plugs, get a good flash light or a boroscope camera, and take a look at the piston heads. A lot of crud on top, and especially accumulation on some but not all cylinders will not be a good sign.

Good luck.


Engine comes with the starter, alternator and flywheel. Flywheel will be recycled, new starter and rebuild the alternator.
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Old 03-01-2018, 03:16 AM   #14
dpark
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I am hopefully another 6-8 years away from needing a new motor or to rebuild mine, but very interested to keep track of options for when that time comes.

Other than BavEngine (http://www.bavengine.com/engine.html), are there any other companies that provide turnkey rebuilt or crated M52/54 motors?
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