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Driveline, Engine & DME Tuning
Talk about driveline improvements, NA tuning and DME tuning your E46 BMW here. This includes diffs, intakes, exhausts, chips, software and OBD tuning.

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Old 05-25-2016, 11:04 PM   #201
rkneeshaw
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Just bought a 2002 330ci with 170k, Looks like the oil pump nut was welded back in 2010. I thought I was safe with the weld but now I'm worried.

Does the weld nut job at least decrease the likely-hood of failure?
I don't think you have much to worry about unless you track your car, or spend a lot of time at 6000 RPM or so. That's what I've gathered from my research. If you do drive your car like that then the proper fix seems to be the ATI balancer or replace the OEM balancer on a regular basis.
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Old 06-01-2016, 04:30 PM   #202
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Old 06-01-2016, 04:31 PM   #203
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What's the best option to fix it, swap to another engine, e.g. s54b32?
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Old 06-08-2016, 07:17 PM   #204
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What's the best option to fix it, swap to another engine, e.g. s54b32?
A good balancer like ATI or Fluidyne will do the trick, however, I don't believe they are off the shelf products. Still cheaper than an engine swap, which is the route I went.
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Old 06-10-2016, 07:55 AM   #205
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When I talked to VAC they said they have heard of nobody with an oil pump related failure after installing the ATI damper, BUT, almost everyone who installed the ATI damper also installed either the oil pump shaft/nut upgrade from VAC or the 4 bolt solution at the same time.
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Old 06-10-2016, 10:57 AM   #206
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When I talked to VAC they said they have heard of nobody with an oil pump related failure after installing the ATI damper, BUT, almost everyone who installed the ATI damper also installed either the oil pump shaft/nut upgrade from VAC or the 4 bolt solution at the same time.

I'll be the first knowing my luck. Haha.
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Old 06-13-2016, 02:36 PM   #207
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M54 Oil Pump solution

When I removed my pan to install the 4-bolt pump my sprocket was loose on the shaft and the nut only loosely held on by a few threads. I kinda thought this wasn't a big deal, but please install these measures, they will save you in the long run. I got soooo lucky.

I installed a new febi dampener and that has been my "solution".
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Old 06-13-2016, 03:20 PM   #208
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I have ran the ATI dampener for a few years now. With no mods to the oil pump I had found the nut loose twice, then welded the oil pump nut last time I had the pan off. My oil pump does no longer turn easily (it did after welding) after a few months of hard driving, almost like the shaft has bent.

With a 7200rpm redline, I am not sure I would personally call the ATI balancer a stand alone solution to the opn issue.
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Old 06-13-2016, 05:27 PM   #209
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I have ran the ATI dampener for a few years now. With no mods to the oil pump I had found the nut loose twice, then welded the oil pump nut last time I had the pan off. My oil pump does no longer turn easily (it did after welding) after a few months of hard driving, almost like the shaft has bent.

With a 7200rpm redline, I am not sure I would personally call the ATI balancer a stand alone solution to the opn issue.

I find this very interesting information....

Your findings show how bad this "Harmonics" problem really is once the M54B30 is allowed to freely rev above its ~6400 RPM redline for any period of time.

On a side note, remember that the ATI is rebuildable for not much cost. IIRC ATI can either send you the rebuild kit or do it themselves in house at their Baltimore MD / USA location.



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Old 06-13-2016, 05:50 PM   #210
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The scary thing is that I still swear by the improvement you can feel in the engine with the ATI dampener, I would hate to have ran the engine for this time without it

On a side note, this time I will be running with a steel mains to block girdle, in the hope of giving the engine a little more stability. I had planned to use the 4 bolt oil pump, up until I saw it in person. It is a shame they put a thread through the front of the shaft, potentially weakening it, instead of an external thread. Unfortunately that has made me decide to go with an external oil pump.

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Old 06-13-2016, 08:34 PM   #211
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I lost the oil pump nut during the SCCA Toledo ProSolo this weekend. I have a 6900 RPM redline, a balanced rotating assembly, an ATI balancer and the OPN was red Loctited to the shaft.

Granted my ATI balancer has been on there for three years and it probably needs to be rebuilt. But I'm a believer now in lower redlines. If 6900 RPM will do it, that's not good news. Revving an M54 above 7k for any period of time is not something I would recommend. Even if the pump nut is welded the harmonics will cause the next thing in the chain to fail. Pump shaft, pump internals, oil pump sprocket, something.
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Old 06-13-2016, 09:50 PM   #212
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These are the reasons I decided to not continue with the oem pump:

The pump chain has no tensioner.

The pump housing makes up as part of the stiffener for the block, there are no supports under the oil pump from the mains back to the block, if the pump body twists with the block, this can't be good for the friction bearings and shaft clearances. The doesn't seem to be as much a problem on cast blocks which is why I see this personally as a potential issue.

After pulling the engine down at 180,000km, everything is immaculate EXCEPT the oil pump drive sprocket on the crank (part of 3 teeth missing), oil pump is notchy to turn (believed to be bent shaft), and putting anything remotely similar back in scares the hell out of me on a fresh built motor lol.
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Old 06-14-2016, 02:30 AM   #213
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I'm really looking forward to when my oil light comes on at 7k Rpm. Nothing better than seeing your engine internals through the side of your block.
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Old 06-14-2016, 05:36 AM   #214
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If you look at the first picture of the M54, you can see the triangular braces from the main cap bolts back to the block. There are none of these beneath the oil pump. You can see that the oil pump housing is designed so that it at least appears to add structure to the block. It is bolted in four locations, and the casting is rigid in design. The aluminium block requires extra bracing over the cast iron block to make it more rigid.

Then when you look at the S52 and S54 photos, the blocks are cast iron, have no main bearing bracing, and the pump is secured at three locations to secure the pump to the block only. It appears that the design is to make the pump rigid, and add nothing to the block.

S54 which is designed for higher rpm then adds a chain tensioner to the setup.

I think personally at least, if I was aiming for higher rpm and wanted to retain the M54 (6800-7200), using the 4 bolt oil pump, and trying to retro fit a chain tensioner would be my first steps.

For tuning, I would like to run my M54 to 7400-7500rpm to see what the head will flow, and where more rpm is pointless (stage 3 head and upgraded valve train). So removing the oil pump will let me reinforce the entire block, and running an external oil pump with a rubber belt will remove chain loading and unloading on a sprocket, hopefully removing the issue altogether.

At the end of the day, I feel the M54 pump was designed for 6800rpm on the road, and not a lot more. In my case, having teeth partially missing from the crank sprocket, and a bent oil pump shaft indicates that the chain is going berserk and requires at least a tensioner to try and control it. At 7200rpm the engine has been smooth as silk, the main bearings and rod bearings were perfect, better than 3 other stock engines with no FI that I have torn down. I would expect this not to be the case at all if crankshaft harmonics were destroying my oil pump.
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Old 06-14-2016, 05:40 AM   #215
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I'm really looking forward to when my oil light comes on at 7k Rpm. Nothing better than seeing your engine internals through the side of your block.
Get rid of the 3.62 diff ratio and go back to a 6800rpm redline if it worries you that much
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Old 06-14-2016, 06:55 AM   #216
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Get rid of the 3.62 diff ratio and go back to a 6800rpm redline if it worries you that much

It really doesn't worry that much. I like fucking my shit up. I'll be going a hemi next
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Old 06-14-2016, 07:24 PM   #217
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So, this is a dumb question.
Is this one of the main reasons that it is rare to see a M54B30 build with schricks 272/256?
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Old 06-15-2016, 12:25 AM   #218
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So, this is a dumb question.
Is this one of the main reasons that it is rare to see a M54B30 build with schricks 272/256?

I had those cams in mine when i dropped the oil pump nut. I wasn't running an ATI dampener and was driving beyond 7k on track for 3 x 10 min sessions. Click image for larger version

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Old 06-22-2016, 08:12 AM   #219
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If that ATI balancer has to be rebuilt every 3 years, then it would seem more economical just to continually replace it with an OEM style unit. I hope the ATI balancers last longer than that.

Disappointing to hear that the ATI balancer isn't enough to completely cure the problem.
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Old 06-22-2016, 08:12 AM   #220
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If that ATI balancer has to be rebuilt every 3 years, then it would seem more economical just to continually replace it with an OEM style unit. I hope the ATI balancers last longer than that.

Disappointing to hear that the ATI balancer isn't enough to completely cure the problem.
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