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Old 07-22-2014, 04:54 AM   #1
FurnicK
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Unhappy Air leak causing loss of power, oil & water?

Hello fanatics.

Problem: The last few months, my car has been very unstable when it's coasting(ranging from 250-1000 RPM). But that's not all. I am also experiencing loss in my water level, up to 0.5 Litres per week (wich is a lot i know) and also up to 1 litre of oil per month!
That is not all, i am also experiencing problems with the heating and cooling when it's on automatic(wont heat to +32 celsius if i set it).

Because of the above, i was needed to get it to a pro workshop, that
resulted in some heavy bodywork, so the money was too short for the idle, heating and cooling problem. But the mechanic was kind enough to tell me what he thought there was wrong with the idle thing, which was the "Profile Gasket" sealing on the intake manifold (see 1.png, part no. 2). More about this later.

In the last weekend, i removed the whole inlet manifold, checked all sealings & o-rings (also all air temperature sensor) they were all in good condition, even the gasket sealing was healty anyway, we changed the gasket sealing gave both that and all other sealings silicon for better a better seal.

We cleaned the intake for leafs and other great things to get into the intake

As i have experienced above, i cleaned and checked other parts as i already had the whole inlet off:
  • Cleaned The ICV
  • DISA: Cleaned and sealings got silicon for better seal.
  • Cleaned intakes for dust
  • Cleaned every place where seals was placed

As we put everything back together, the problem was the same, as if we haven't done anything.. The only output worth mentioning is this:


It sounds like a f*cking wind tunnel going on under the hood!

Can the vent pipe going to the Pressure Regulating Valve cause such an effect on my idle and on my heavy usage of oil & water? (see 2.png part no. 2)

My friend is afraid that it is the head gasket which is having a leak, can anybody decline or confirm his theory?

I am so lost, can't keep buying and changing parts that doesn't do any good for my car.

Need help guys
Best regards
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Old 07-22-2014, 08:51 AM   #2
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Has the engine overheated?
Is there smoke at the tailpipe?
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Old 07-22-2014, 11:22 AM   #3
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My money is on the head gasket too. Sorry.

I could be wrong, but by the report you gave, that was my first thought. Well, my second thought. My first was that English is not your native language and I am having trouble understanding you.
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Old 07-23-2014, 01:49 AM   #4
FurnicK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lszlszx View Post
Has the engine overheated?
Is there smoke at the tailpipe?
The engine has never overheated, and the thermostat is fully functional.
The smoke coming out is as normal as it could be. No white or white-ish smoke, and no milky oil.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jdstrickland
My money is on the head gasket too. Sorry.

I could be wrong, but by the report you gave, that was my first thought. Well, my second thought. My first was that English is not your native language and I am having trouble understanding you.
Please point out what you don't understand. My english is, as you say, not my native language. But i should be able to write, so please correct my mistakes if you would

Anyway, would the head gasket be able to make such a loud whooshing without showing any white smoke?
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Old 07-23-2014, 06:26 AM   #5
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yes the vent pipe and the entire crankcase ventilation valve can cause anomalies. example, disconnect the pipe hooked to the valve cover while your engine is running. it starts acting up. try this test. open up your oil fill cap while engine running. describe the best way you can how strong of a suction you notice, if no suction or very little, state that
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Old 07-23-2014, 08:40 AM   #6
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Well, if the coolant isn't burned, there must be a leak.
Look for coolant leak, or pressure test the cooling system.

An airleak can cause fluxuating idle.

Compression test, or leak down test can tell you about a possible head gasket problem.

If it didn't over heat that is less likely, but it's a good idea to rule out the more serious issue.
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Old 08-09-2014, 07:52 AM   #7
FurnicK
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Air leak causing loss of power, oil & water?

Quote:
Originally Posted by NumbaOneNewb View Post
yes the vent pipe and the entire crankcase ventilation valve can cause anomalies. example, disconnect the pipe hooked to the valve cover while your engine is running. it starts acting up. try this test. open up your oil fill cap while engine running. describe the best way you can how strong of a suction you notice, if no suction or very little, state that

Sorry for the late post, i got interrupted by vacation and holidays.

Back to question:
If i disconnect the pipe hooked to the valve cover, there is no suction when i place my hans on the oil cap hole there is more a pushing than a suction. I can also see white-ish smoke coming up from there when i remove my hand. If i put on the vent pipe, there is sucktion, but not much, and i can hear a loud whoosing when i place my hand on the hole, but can't identify where.

Do you have any clues to this?

Quote:
Originally Posted by lszlszx View Post
Well, if the coolant isn't burned, there must be a leak.

Look for coolant leak, or pressure test the cooling system.



An airleak can cause fluxuating idle.



Compression test, or leak down test can tell you about a possible head gasket problem.



If it didn't over heat that is less likely, but it's a good idea to rule out the more serious issue.
There has never been an overheating. Can you post a link to a guide for making a compression test, and the leak down test just to check?

Thank you guys in advance.


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Old 08-09-2014, 08:30 AM   #8
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I hope you did not do all of this work for nothing.

RARELY do the intake manifold gaskets leak air on these engines.

You need to read the links in my signature.

The 1st link has to do with vacuum/crankcase air leaks that cause all sorts of idle related problems.

These engines do have a loud vacuum sound that has to do with the idle bypass system, this is normal, but without hearing your engine in person, I cannot tell you if your engine sound is normal.

As for engine coolant leaks, you need to replace the O-ring on the temperature sensor in the lower radiator hose. These leak all the time and often you never see coolant on the ground. The part number is in my signature and you do not need any tools to remove the switch. Leave the expansion tank cap in place, remove the switch when the engine is cold, you will loose very little coolant due to the vacuum in the cooling system.

Also search YouTube for Scotty Smoke Test. Smoke testing the intake and crankcase is an easy way to find vacuum leaks you cannot locate by visual inspection.

Also the brake boosters are failing on these cars as they age and people miss these problems often.

Good luck.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 08-09-2014, 12:24 PM   #9
FurnicK
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
I hope you did not do all of this work for nothing.

RARELY do the intake manifold gaskets leak air on these engines.

You need to read the links in my signature.

The 1st link has to do with vacuum/crankcase air leaks that cause all sorts of idle related problems.

These engines do have a loud vacuum sound that has to do with the idle bypass system, this is normal, but without hearing your engine in person, I cannot tell you if your engine sound is normal.

As for engine coolant leaks, you need to replace the O-ring on the temperature sensor in the lower radiator hose. These leak all the time and often you never see coolant on the ground. The part number is in my signature and you do not need any tools to remove the switch. Leave the expansion tank cap in place, remove the switch when the engine is cold, you will loose very little coolant due to the vacuum in the cooling system.

Also search YouTube for Scotty Smoke Test. Smoke testing the intake and crankcase is an easy way to find vacuum leaks you cannot locate by visual inspection.

Also the brake boosters are failing on these cars as they age and people miss these problems often.

Good luck.
Well thank you for the advices, i think i will go through the links in your signature, as well as doing other researches on the Scotty smoke, and the o-ring in the lower radiator hose.

The brakes might also need a check, thanks for the heads-up on that, alsmost forgot it

This is just going to take a looot of time and money i guess...
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Old 08-29-2014, 04:00 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FurnicK View Post
Well thank you for the advices, i think i will go through the links in your signature, as well as doing other researches on the Scotty smoke, and the o-ring in the lower radiator hose.

The brakes might also need a check, thanks for the heads-up on that, alsmost forgot it

This is just going to take a looot of time and money i guess...
After undergoing a minor repair of the rear end, the mechanic changed a lambda sensor, all 6 spark plugs, checked for leaks and the o-rings in the lover radiator hose. The idle is still rough and the car is still using water & oil.

All in all, the last thing i can think of, is the headgasket. Can anyone confirm that this could be the problem?

Thanks in advance
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Old 10-14-2014, 11:47 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FurnicK View Post
After undergoing a minor repair of the rear end, the mechanic changed a lambda sensor, all 6 spark plugs, checked for leaks and the o-rings in the lover radiator hose. The idle is still rough and the car is still using water & oil.

All in all, the last thing i can think of, is the headgasket. Can anyone confirm that this could be the problem?

Thanks in advance
Just an update:
As time has been passing by, the problem was getting uglier. That said, my fear of the head-gasket was blown, has become an reality, almost.
The problem was my cylinder head was cracked, but my gasket were fine..

Aaand just a question:
Does anyone have a clue about why? I don't wanna undergo this kind of rep. again, it was expensive as hell!..
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Old 10-14-2014, 12:11 PM   #12
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Most likely reason for a cylinder head to crack is overheating, freezing or a casting flaw that excessive/extreme temperatures may have caused a failure at the casting flaw. If there was a casting flaw, you would not need for the coolant to freeze or the engine to overheat for this type of failure, just extreme temperatures like very cold or upper end of hot before overheating.

Do not know if you know the full history on the car, but also note the temperature gauges are buffered on these engines, so it will always stay at the vertical position over about a 50F window.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 10-16-2014, 02:26 AM   #13
FurnicK
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Most likely reason for a cylinder head to crack is overheating, freezing or a casting flaw that excessive/extreme temperatures may have caused a failure at the casting flaw. If there was a casting flaw, you would not need for the coolant to freeze or the engine to overheat for this type of failure, just extreme temperatures like very cold or upper end of hot before overheating.

Do not know if you know the full history on the car, but also note the temperature gauges are buffered on these engines, so it will always stay at the vertical position over about a 50F window.
The car has been driving in Germany from birth (1999) to around 2008, then got imported to Denmark, after that i have no clue until i got it in February 2013, the winter in 2013 was very bad, the temperatures was as low as -30C, you think this could do anything?

Besides that, the mechanic have changed the clinder head but the problem with rough idle is still ongoing, can the engine control adapt the setting if I've been driving with the problem too long? If so, is it possible to reset?

It's been 4 weeks since my car went up there, I'm starting to get worried about never getting it to drive probably again.
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Old 10-20-2014, 08:35 AM   #14
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The car has been driving in Germany from birth (1999) to around 2008, then got imported to Denmark, after that i have no clue until i got it in February 2013, the winter in 2013 was very bad, the temperatures was as low as -30C, you think this could do anything?

Besides that, the mechanic have changed the clinder head but the problem with rough idle is still ongoing, can the engine control adapt the setting if I've been driving with the problem too long? If so, is it possible to reset?

It's been 4 weeks since my car went up there, I'm starting to get worried about never getting it to drive probably again.
Now I've got my baby back, but not in the shape i wanted.

There has been several changes and a new cylinder head, after I've got it back, there is a drop in performance, it actually feels like it has lost around 20-50 HP, can the engine control mess this up? Do i need a reset or a brand new?
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