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Old 06-23-2016, 09:21 AM   #21
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If you're not getting up to normal op temp (which will be the value stamped on your t-stat as normal temp can vary by region and designation) I would suspect that your t-stat failed OPEN (which is what it is meant to do BTW when it fails)

The tests I have suggested for you to diagnose will only be helpful if everything else is working (including circulation, T-Stat, WP, CTS etc). Really the INPA Fan Test is the only guaranteed test for the Aux Fan Module but if you know everything else functions properly you can typically pinpoint the fan module thru process of elimination. Your fan won't spin in the high range at 92C - but it shouldn't overheat at that temp either??

It could still be the fan even though the fan defaults to high speed. The way this system is designed the fan switches to high speed on an input failure (CTS) - it therefore bypasses the PWM signal and the full voltage is sent to the fan motor. If your PWM signal is not functioning or being interpreted properly at the fan module then your fan won't spin on some or all 15 speed requests. I have noted that most often the high speed ranges are the first to stop working.

Last edited by BMW-North; 06-23-2016 at 03:26 PM.
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Old 06-23-2016, 07:10 PM   #22
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Good news and bad news... Good news is my fan turned on and thermometer showing ~60* on lower radiator hose when the OBD showed 98*, which means coolant is flowing, and the temp sensor is working properly (with AC off of course). Bad news is my expansion tank is leaking when the engine is up to temp, which explains why it took sooo much coolant when I filled it up last night, and perhaps why it was overheating in the first place. But at least I know what the problem is. Any recommendations as to which tank I should get? I read somewhere that some aftermarket ones have the leaking issue fixed.
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Old 06-23-2016, 07:15 PM   #23
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I don't think it is the fan, because it defaults to high speed if I unplug the sensor. It could still be a problem

Sorry to hear you are still chasing this problem.

If you unplug the CTS so that the fan runs continuosly does the engine overheat? If the engine overheats when the fan is running then there is a coolant flow issue with the radiator, heater core or a coolant flow restriction somewhere. If the engine stays cool when you unplug the CTS then it is definately something in the fan circuit like the fan module, a bad connector or wiring issue. Actually, if the engine stays cool when driving at 35 to 50 MPH when the ambient tempurature is 65 degrees then it is something with the fan not a coolant flow issue.

I replaced my fan today and all is well again. The fan is working as it should and it was easy to replace. I also replaced my CTS for good measure. I was fortunate to have noticed the temp gauge rising and it never went above 3/4 and only once for a few minutes.
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Old 06-23-2016, 07:24 PM   #24
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Sorry to hear you are still chasing this problem.

If you unplug the CTS so that the fan runs continuosly does the engine overheat? If the engine overheats when the fan is running then there is a coolant flow issue with the radiator, heater core or a coolant flow restriction somewhere. If the engine stays cool when you unplug the CTS then it is definately something in the fan circuit like the fan module, a bad connector or wiring issue.
Thanks, IxNay, I believe it was me lacking coolant and a bad CTS which prevented the engine from cooling properly in the first place. Lack of coolant meant it was probable that there was air in the system, so it was not cooling. If the CTS was bad (which it probably was), it didn't know to turn on the fan even if coolant was flowing through the radiator (thermostat is prob ok then also because lower rad hose was hot).
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Old 06-23-2016, 07:59 PM   #25
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Here is a video from the last rallycross, this is the first time I've raced this car since my dad just got it.
Thanks for posting the video. That looks FUN
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Old 06-23-2016, 08:02 PM   #26
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Thanks, IxNay, I believe it was me lacking coolant and a bad CTS which prevented the engine from cooling properly in the first place. Lack of coolant meant it was probable that there was air in the system, so it was not cooling. If the CTS was bad (which it probably was), it didn't know to turn on the fan even if coolant was flowing through the radiator (thermostat is prob ok then also because lower rad hose was hot).
Sounds logical. Have you solved the problem?
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Old 06-23-2016, 08:08 PM   #27
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It would appear that your fan assembly is not working.

As I mentioned earlier without INPA it is process of elimination trying to diagnose the fan module. I would suspect your fan module is shot. I'm assuming you've checked that fuse 37 is ok? and that there is 12v to the two thick wires at the connector (pigtail) - constant power 24/7 - even with no key in ignition. If it is a manual fan - it's a 5 minute removal then you can put 12v using leads direct to the fan motor terminals to satisfy your curiosity that the fan motor perhaps still works direct to power. - as I said typically the module craps out - especially in NE States and Canada where salt is used on the roads.

Edit - Given the age of your 328 I'm curious as to whether you have the Bosch Gen 1 or the Siemens integrated fan. BMW had a recall on the Siemens which I know as late as 2011 they were still publishing in it in their releases - If you don;t have a fan module bolted on the shroud it will be a Siemens.

In either case - if this is the OE fan - you got 16 years out of it in a harsh climate - pretty good.

Fan replaced, problem solved. Thanks for your help
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Old 06-23-2016, 08:53 PM   #28
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Thanks for posting the video. That looks FUN
No problem! I have older rally videos on my channel as well if you're interested.

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Sounds logical. Have you solved the problem?
I hope so. Expansion tank was clearly leaking when the engine was hot. I ordered an expansion tank on amazon and it should come tomorrow (free same day shipping with prime ftw). Hopefully my car will be running properly by tomorrow night! Thanks for your help, IxNay and BMW-North.
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Old 06-25-2016, 09:11 PM   #29
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I'm super stoked right now I changed the expansion tank and flushed the coolant system, and put some new coolant in. Went on a test drive and temps were ok! never hit above 98* and that was sitting still (and yes the fan was on this time ). I am going to do another round of bleeding tomorrow morning after the engine cools down.

As for the car, it feels great and pulls hard! Thanks everyone for your help.
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Old 06-26-2016, 05:36 AM   #30
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You're welcome. Glad it's working well. Don't forget to do the pa soft temperature gauge buffer adjustment for added security and early warning of any future problems.
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Old 06-26-2016, 05:55 AM   #31
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Hi every one i have e46 2000 328i auto tanss .i want to delet my mechanic fan clutch and replace it with one electric fan and the only way to connect the electric fan is to use the front electric fan connector. but the comnector only workes when the AC is on dose it means i have to keep the AC on all the time while driving to keep the fan running???
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Old 06-26-2016, 06:02 AM   #32
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No. Means you have other cooling issues.

By the way you already have an electric fan. So you're just deleting a fan. The mechanical fan that's been cooling your engine presently while your electric fan isn't working properly.

There is plenty of info in other threads about deleting the fan but you're in a hot climate. Last thing I'd want to be doing is reducing the cooling capacity of an aging car and replacing the oe components with known quality issue aftermarket Chinese parts. I'll post a link shortly. You likely need a cooling temp sensor or a new fan module.

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Old 06-26-2016, 06:16 AM   #33
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Didnt really understand you bmw-north .if i delet the mechanic fan and the aux fan replacing both fan with only one electric fan on the radiator i think that is possible but the problem is that if i connect the electric fan to the aux connector the fan will not run on till i put on the AC .that means if i am not using the AC i will not be having the electric fan running
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Old 06-26-2016, 06:23 AM   #34
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Didnt really understand you bmw-north .if i delet the mechanic fan and the aux fan replacing both fan with only one electric fan on the radiator i think that is possible but the problem is that if i connect the electric fan to the aux connector the fan will not run on till i put on the AC .that means if i am not using the AC i will not be having the electric fan running
What you are doing is well documented in this thread:

https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=849735


However - please read my comments on or about here:

https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthr...849735&page=38

To answer your question - the electric fan in any circumstance is turned on to cool the engine - not only when AC is running. If your car will only turn on the electric fan when AC=ON then you have another problem similar to the original poster in this thread. Simply swapping your current pusher fan for a puller fan might not fix the issue (if it is say the coolant temp sensor for example) then, you would not have the benefit of the viscous clutch fan (mechanical fan) to save your engine from overheat since the electric fan might not be operating when it should.

Notes for the Fan Delete Mod
Edit: to answer a question I noted in another thread that asked. When you delete the mechanical fan how does the DME know now just to use the single electric fan for cooling? - Answer: It doesn't, the e46 uses cooling mapping which has setpoints. In simple terms the DME has a table of values that are thresholds for activating requests. The goal is to maintain a desired temperature within a small range. Since you have less cooling without the mechanical fan the DME senses the increased temps through sensors and signals the electric fan to operate more often and at higher speed requests - in other words the DME is now driving the electric fan harder and more frequently to maintain the desired temp ranges that are set in it's logic. This is not equal to the condition on a manual transmission e46 configuration since cooling requirements for these vehicles is lower so the fan operates in the high ranges less often. It is therefore more important for vehicles having removed the mechanical fan that the electric fan be 100% operational.

Last edited by BMW-North; 09-30-2016 at 10:37 AM.
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Old 06-26-2016, 06:33 AM   #35
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Thanks i get you bro i am glad to see that
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Old 06-26-2016, 09:37 AM   #36
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You're welcome. Glad it's working well. Don't forget to do the pa soft temperature gauge buffer adjustment for added security and early warning of any future problems.

I just got my scanner yesterday, so that is something I will also do today.
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Old 06-27-2016, 05:52 PM   #37
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I'm super stoked right now I changed the expansion tank and flushed the coolant system, and put some new coolant in. Went on a test drive and temps were ok! never hit above 98* and that was sitting still (and yes the fan was on this time ). I am going to do another round of bleeding tomorrow morning after the engine cools down.

As for the car, it feels great and pulls hard! Thanks everyone for your help.
Good to hear you fixed your problem. I fixed mine with a new fan and CTS. It is nice not to have to worry about overheating.
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