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Old 08-14-2018, 06:51 PM   #21
Lathe
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It sounds like your fan isn't working properly if it's overheating at idle. Either that or something is stopping the coolant flow whenever you stop the vehicle. This may or may not be related to the loss of coolant but it seems like a separate issue entirely based off your description.

Pardon me if this has been addressed already but when you walk out to your car can you see coolant on the ground? The coolant has to be going somewhere so if the pressure test yielded nothing and the coolant is simply disappearing it's very possible it is being consumed by the engine; you might have a warped head
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Old 08-16-2018, 05:57 PM   #22
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Well last night I finally got fed up and took it to a Firestone dealer who specializes in radiators. He told me there was a metal hose that had a crack in it that runs up to the exhaust manifold and the lower hose wasnt the problem. Unfortunately our call got cut off and I havent been able to reach him back yet. Anybody know what exactly hes talking about?


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Old 08-16-2018, 06:56 PM   #23
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Do you still looking for the big leak? To save money for now just use distill water it works just fine in the summer.
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Old 08-16-2018, 07:58 PM   #24
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Do you still looking for the big leak? To save money for now just use distill water it works just fine in the summer.


Actually Im using distilled water as a mix with Prestone full concentrate so a gallon of Distilled water makes me 2 gallons of 50/50. The problems is we cant keep fluid in it. It leaks out as soon as its out in and now the leak has gotten 2 fast to control.


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Old 08-17-2018, 12:44 AM   #25
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Where is the big leak? You can use 100% distilled water.
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Old 08-17-2018, 05:26 AM   #26
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The leak I'm told is coming from a heater hose which is supposedly is a metal line that runs to the intake manifold. There is a crack in that line so ANY fluids that put in are going to go right back out through the bottom. As I've already mentioned the temp would hold fine at 200 degrees as long as the car was in motion at 60-70 miles an hour and I'd just add coolant when I stopped. It's when I was sitting at idle or in traffic that the overheating began (Temp jumps to 220-230) then I'd have to stop and loosen the cap to let some of the pressure off, wait a few minutes then add more fluid then I could continue on. I've taken one trip that was over 1000 miles each way and many, many trips down to Miami to work. As long as you kept putting in the antifreeze in and the car could keep running a constant 70-80 MPH there were no overheating issues and the temp would run at a constant 200 degrees.
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Old 08-17-2018, 04:36 PM   #27
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There is no metal pipe in the coolant system. Do it yourself or find a better BMW shop.
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Old 08-17-2018, 04:58 PM   #28
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I suspect your mechanic is referring to this pipe which commonly leaks where it enters the cylinder head. For several years now there has been a metal alternative to the OE plastic pipe. It runs under the intake.
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Old 08-17-2018, 07:50 PM   #29
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when I was doing my cooling system refresh, I didn't reinstall my clutch fan so that I could see if there were any leaks. The aux fan did just fine cooling the car in 100F+ weather


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Old 08-17-2018, 07:51 PM   #30
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Well if i was a bettin man Id say weve located the issue!


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Old 08-18-2018, 01:35 AM   #31
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Well if i was a bettin man Id say weve located the issue!


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Old 08-18-2018, 10:05 PM   #32
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Well there's a little more to the story. Put in a new lower hose and it "supposedly" leaked through the coolant temperature sensor so I get a Gates lower hose then they tell me that now the leak is coming from the water pump! Something about a seal gone bad. So far I've replaced a radiator, thermostat, Gates upper and lower hoses, a coolant temperature sensor, a belt tensioner , AND a water pump! Guy that was working on it used a impact tool and turned the fan clutch nut the wrong way and then claimed it was seized up and he couldn't get it off. Even the manager at the auto parts store told me you could not and absolutely should not use an impact tool on a BMW Period! Finally I went and got somebody who had a fan clutch kit come over and take it off. How the hell the problem goes from a lower coolant hose to a water pump is beyond me! I've never seen so many misdiagnoses in all of my life! Now I'm supposedly guaranteed that once I replace the water pump and the tensioner pulley on Monday 8/20/28 everything will be normal again. What I've pretty much done is replace the entire cooling system. I've got roughly $1100 total tied up in the whole project now. About the only other component I haven't replaced yet is the alternator. A fuel pump was replaced 2 months ago. As far as being a bettin man, well I just got the **** beat out of me and I'm not out of the woods yet!
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Old 08-20-2018, 01:19 PM   #33
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How the hell the problem goes from a lower coolant hose to a water pump is beyond me! I've never seen so many misdiagnoses in all of my life!
This is the reason why many of us are DIY; I don't want to let turkeys working on my cars -- costs more money and more headache. The turkey used and impact and torqued the fan nut in the CCW wrong direction and this probably stripped the WP male threads and so a new WP was needed. Ask them to pay for the WP by showing them the stripped threads.
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Old 08-20-2018, 01:23 PM   #34
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"Guy that was working on it used a impact tool and turned the fan clutch nut the wrong way and then claimed it was seized up and he couldn't get it off."

But wait a second; how could someone use an impact tool on this nut? There is no way to place a socket on the nut but only an open wrench!!!
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Old 08-20-2018, 02:50 PM   #35
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Impact Chisel, Sorry!
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Old 08-20-2018, 04:11 PM   #36
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Impact Chisel, Sorry!
No wonder why they needed a new WP. Chisel in the wrong direction? double turkey destroyed the WP bearing. The chisel grooves on the nut in CCW direction is the evidence to ask them to pay for the WP.

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Old 08-20-2018, 04:25 PM   #37
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Impact Chisel, Sorry!
A mechanic used an impact chisel on an engine/drivetrain nut. Unreal.

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Old 08-20-2018, 07:43 PM   #38
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The guy was so dumb he couldn't tell the engine turning direction from studying the fan blade angle. If the engine and water pump are turning CW viewed from front then the nut must be turned CW to loosen. This guy should be working at the WH.
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Old 08-20-2018, 11:24 PM   #39
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Well the verdict is now in. I went to pick up the car, owner already left for the day so I went ahead and took the vehicle which was in the parking lot because I had the master key and they had been left with the Valet key. I take it down the street to a auto parts store and find out it's 2 quarts low on oil and low on antifreeze. I add the 2 quarts of oil and bleed out the system and took it to my mechanic up in West Palm Beach who verified that the fan clutch had been destroyed and in an earlier conversation with the owner before I went to pick up the car he stated that the tensioner pulley I brought him was the wrong part (Gates 38201) so they just put the old one back on. I found both the old water pump and the tensioner pulley (minus the box) so I couldn't return the part that was later verified to be the right tensioner! Here's where the story gets interesting however, 2 days ago we agreed to $400 total for the entire job including installing the new water pump and tensioner but I haven't paid him anything yet and I don't want to screw over the guy even though he obviously tried to do that to me! I told him I had been in the forum trying to diagnose the problem and his comment was "I don't sit around and talk to a bunch of computer wizards I fix cars! The car is now in my possession and it's not ever going back to that shop! My upbringing tells me that the thing to do is subtract the cost of the fan clutch and labor as well as the money for the tensioner since I don't have the box they most likely threw away. I want my key back and my guess is that it's going to be close to $400 to get everything fixed correctly. I was able to finally locate the "pin prick" hole in the lower radiator hose and that's what the problem has been all along. When I told him that all he wanted to do is start piling on more problems. When I brought him the parts he said he needed then he said it was something else! I've been raked over the coals, lied to, mislead, but here's one thing that's an absolute for sure! I watched that so called mechanic take a impact chisel to that fan nut and force it the wrong way and then listened to him tell me that it was seized and he couldn't get it off! Really the only question that remains is what would you do if you were me? If I had paid this guy today I'd be on my way to small claims court tomorrow! Social Media (Yelp and Google) would have a field day with this! Just trying to figure out how to handle this at this point? "
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Old 08-21-2018, 09:36 AM   #40
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Hopefully you've learned that you need to DIY. Being a network engineer you constantly have to research and learn about tech: routers, switches, NICs, load balancers, proxies, storage, etc. Right? So, do the same with your car. Start with Mango's cooling system guide here.
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=914109

Then work your way through the rest of the major threads.
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1130405

You can't pay someone to work on your car these days, too expensive and risky.
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