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Old 12-05-2019, 08:20 AM   #41
WDE46
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I'm back from Key West so I'm going to start moving along. I ordered the first gallon of paint from Target Coatings in Raven Black for the bathrooms (my trial area).

I'm going to setup a paint booth in the garage that's about 8' x 8' and full encapsulated in plastic sheeting. I'll just wear my organic respirator. Also, I'm putting a 1500W radiant oil heater in there to keep things at a reasonable temperature for the coating curing.

First primer to try will be the BIN Advanced synthetic shellac. If I get good results, I'll use it everywhere. If not, I'll switch to the real shellac primer that's alcohol based.

I still haven't painted the new door I put on the first bathroom either, so I'm going to try spraying that Behr paint and see how it comes out.
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Old 12-07-2019, 04:02 PM   #42
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Built the spray booth frame today. Bought twenty 3/4 x 10' PVC pipes and the fittings. I glued to together the two opposing walls and then I just press in some H shaped (H on its side) frames into the corners and viola. Just need to tape the plastic drop cloth over the sides and top when I start.



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Old 12-10-2019, 05:28 PM   #43
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Well I done ****ed up on the primer. I thought it was available in-store and I'm going to double check tomorrow, but I can find nowhere locally that has BIN Advanced Synthetic Shellac white primer. Not good. I was planning to do the small bathroom vanity this weekend (((
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Old 12-13-2019, 09:13 AM   #44
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Spray booth is almost done. It's roughly 8' x 10'. Just need to do the top and front/back walls. The floor will get a canvas drop cloth for the duration and the heater will go inside while I'm not spraying.

The E82 will get flipped around, moved over, put on the battery tender, and covered for the duration most likely.



2x4 rack for hanging doors. Hangers can spin so I can rotate the doors while spraying. You put cup hooks in the doors (top or bottom depending on door location) to attach to hangers.

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Old 12-13-2019, 09:27 AM   #45
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1.) Why do you need a heater?
2.) I hope you have a good respirator with the correct filters.
3.) Make sure you're wearing clothes you don't care about.
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Old 12-13-2019, 09:36 AM   #46
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1.) Why do you need a heater?
2.) I hope you have a good respirator with the correct filters.
3.) Make sure you're wearing clothes you don't care about.
1. The paint needs to cure at a decent temperature. My garage will get below freezing occasionally in the coming month. I need to keep it above 50 or so and ideally around 60F while spraying.

2. Yeah I have a 3M respirator rated for organic vapors. Always aware of this. They help a ton.

3. I have a Raygard suit. Should be pretty sexy. I look way better than this amateur model that they hired for this fashion shoot.

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Old 12-15-2019, 09:29 AM   #47
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Sanded the doors and sprayed the first primer coat yesterday. I can see sanding marks through the primer. I'm not sure why. I did 120/150 grit and Zinsser recommends 80-100. Of course, that's a recommendation for bare wood, so the varnish may scratch in a way that's tough for the BIN to fill. Going to sand lightly with 320 and respray.


Also going to Lowes and getting the Craftsman or Bosch orbital sander so I can get done with the cabinet box faster today.


Later update:



Also decided while at Lowes to pick up Bullseye 1-2-3 primer. It's waterbased. I'm going to try it on the cabinet boxes inside the house. The shellac primer just puts off way too many fumes. I'm seriously fearful I could blow the house up spraying it inside. The 1-2-3 will take longer to cure but I won't have to ventilate the house as much and it won't explode.


E82 covered



Inside the spray booth




You can see the negative pressure from the fan I installed for ventilation here.

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Old 12-15-2019, 06:08 PM   #48
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Another update.


Bulls Eye 1-2-3 is too thick for an HVLP or at least with the 2mm tip. I don't have another tip. I can't thin it more than I already have at 10 oz per gallon. Too much thinning will weaken the primer and could swell the wood grain.


I am going to foam roller the BIN Shellac on the boxes. It's the only way. Spraying is possibly too dangerous fume wise. I'll roll/brush and give a pass with 220 or 320 after and then top coat. I don't think it'll be that bad.



OMW back to Home Depot!
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Old 12-15-2019, 08:06 PM   #49
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Brushing and rolling was the way to go. I used a 1/4Ē nap roller and a 2Ē angled brush.

There was a learning curve. Definitely do not touch the rolled areas with the brush. Itíll ruin the finish since shellac dries so fast. Brush all the corners and edges and then roll. Be strict about it and it goes smooth.

Sanding with 320 tomorrow lightly and Iíll be ready for the black color on Tuesday. Iíll do the cabinet base first this time so I can put the toilet back in place and my GF can start using that bathroom again. Doors and drawers will probably be Wednesday.


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Old 12-16-2019, 08:42 AM   #50
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You got sanding marks because you were sanding in the same direction and cause grooves. The orbital sander will help this but keep the speed low otherwise you'll melt the finish and it'll gum everything up.
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Old 12-16-2019, 09:22 AM   #51
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LOL at you being too lazy to just move the 1 outside? why the F leave it in there covered and take the risk of anything getting up under that cover? seems silly to me.

otherwise, your makeshift paint booth is SICK!
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Old 12-16-2019, 10:02 AM   #52
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You got sanding marks because you were sanding in the same direction and cause grooves. The orbital sander will help this but keep the speed low otherwise you'll melt the finish and it'll gum everything up.
Yeah I'm a big fan of the orbital sander. Knocked out the cabinet box in minutes with it.

What do you mean sanding in the same direction? I thought ideally you sanded with the grain (not totally possible on cabinets all the time). The 150 seemed to randomly cut really deep in some areas.

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LOL at you being too lazy to just move the 1 outside? why the F leave it in there covered and take the risk of anything getting up under that cover? seems silly to me.

otherwise, your makeshift paint booth is SICK!
I don't want to keep it outside and there is a Jeep behind that garage door and my GF's car. The cover seems to be working fine. I don't have the fan on during spraying so it's not blowing paint out of the booth. I do need to tape it down some though. It billows up a ton when the door is open slightly for venting the booth.

The booth itself is really working great. The only crappy thing is the access. I'm considering getting one of those stick on zippers and making one of the sections out of heavier sheeting.

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Old 12-16-2019, 10:58 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by WDE46 View Post
Yeah I'm a big fan of the orbital sander. Knocked out the cabinet box in minutes with it.

What do you mean sanding in the same direction? I thought ideally you sanded with the grain (not totally possible on cabinets all the time). The 150 seemed to randomly cut really deep in some areas.
Yes, true but that's only for bare wood. You're not sanding wood, you're sanding finish and that usually requires an orbital motion to get a good result unless you're using super high grit paper like 400+.
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Old 12-16-2019, 11:17 AM   #54
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Yes, true but that's only for bare wood. You're not sanding wood, you're sanding finish and that usually requires an orbital motion to get a good result unless you're using super high grit paper like 400+.
Right that's good to know. I thought that might've been the main cause since scratches don't appear in areas where I got to bare wood. Looks like I'll get a pack of 320 or 400 for the orbital (depending how the box spraying comes out today/tomorrow) and some finer sand paper for hand work.

Really glad I only took on a small vanity first so I don't waste so much time in the kitchen.
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Old 12-16-2019, 11:38 AM   #55
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You need high grit for hand sanding, you can go with lower grit for orbital.

Are you looking to just scuff the surface or are you trying to take finish off?
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Old 12-16-2019, 11:43 AM   #56
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Nice thread! Looking forward to seeing how this turns out.


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Old 12-16-2019, 11:44 AM   #57
WDE46
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You need high grit for hand sanding, you can go with lower grit for orbital.

Are you looking to just scuff the surface or are you trying to take finish off?


Mostly scuffing. There are some areas with defects that I need to take all the way though. Iíll post some pics later.

The varnish is cracked on a lot of them but not chipping off. Iím hoping I can paint over that with decent results. Weíll see on the bathroom doors.


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Old 12-16-2019, 12:06 PM   #58
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I love seeing this type of threads, i always get inspired but then i get home and im like.. NAH.. I'll just move lol..
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Old 12-16-2019, 12:39 PM   #59
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I love seeing this type of threads, i always get inspired but then i get home and im like.. NAH.. I'll just move lol..
Honestly the $7K quote I got for the project seems much more reasonable now. The kitchen will be the biggest project I've ever undertaken by far. However, I'm just tackling one part at a time and problems as they come. It's totally doable. I got pretty stressed out last night when I was masking the bathroom since you have to cover EVERYTHING to spray and then the primer I wanted to try wouldn't work. But after finishing it and sleeping on it, I remember to just go one step at a time.
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Old 12-16-2019, 01:08 PM   #60
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Are you currently living at this home? because thats my biggest problem with any inhouse project. having sht all over the place while i finisht the work then i get stressed out about it and angry that i cant find anything and im moving sht around all the time to find things.
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Honestly the $7K quote I got for the project seems much more reasonable now. The kitchen will be the biggest project I've ever undertaken by far. However, I'm just tackling one part at a time and problems as they come. It's totally doable. I got pretty stressed out last night when I was masking the bathroom since you have to cover EVERYTHING to spray and then the primer I wanted to try wouldn't work. But after finishing it and sleeping on it, I remember to just go one step at a time.
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