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Old 02-23-2020, 08:26 PM   #1
Alpinerunner
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Location: Stamford, CT
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My Ride: 1990 M3
What's for sale?

So I finally have my e34 M5 submitted to Bring a Trailer (should be live in a few days), which will free up cash and space to start my SE46 journey. What's out there for sale? My ideal car would be bone stock with a cage and subframe reinforcement. I can do all interior and suspension work so I'd rather not pay labor prices to have that done, and of course I can't do a cage or weld myself...

I know there are a few for sale ads here, but some people have asked for updates and no response, so I assume those are dead/sold.
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Old 02-26-2020, 08:11 AM   #2
Bobby W. #52
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Sold

Last edited by Bobby W. #52; 03-27-2020 at 08:03 AM. Reason: Sold
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Old 02-29-2020, 11:08 AM   #3
engrmikl
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Whats for sale

I am in the same boat as you looking at cars. People list the car and then never check back for questions or replys. They sell the car and never update the listing.
If they would just put an email on the damn thing would make things better.
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Old 02-29-2020, 07:21 PM   #4
MrFabulous
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My Ride: SE46 in progress
Mine will be for sale soon. Just buttoning up a few things before I take it to get a log book, dyno and weight. Building it was a fun road but I've lost interest and want to move onto something else. Still needs a diff and the correct shocks (it's on AST 4150's now) but it's built with the intention of running multiple classes. Pictures of the build are here: https://goo.gl/photos/EY3opey3nw75aMRv9 Build sheet: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...it?usp=sharing and my email is peteberta at gmail

Last edited by MrFabulous; 02-29-2020 at 07:24 PM.
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Old 03-01-2020, 07:48 AM   #5
engrmikl
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Nice

Well All I Have to say is Holy Crap. I have heard and seen some gargare builds before but this one definitley is not what you usually see.
Nice build. Probably over my budget for sure.

Last edited by engrmikl; 03-01-2020 at 07:49 AM.
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Old 03-01-2020, 11:20 AM   #6
MrFabulous
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Thanks! I'm somewhat of a pro-am. I've worked in shops when I was younger and was given the nickname of MrFabulous because everything I did had to be a certain way.

Got this from the facebook SE46 group. https://ebay.us/WMlM61 It's got a good parts list, but the rear down bars appear to have a kink in them just after the main hoop. According to NASA GCR the rear down bars cannot have any bends in them. I'm not sure if it's just the picture, but that would be something to bring up to the seller. Those bars will probably have to be replaced.
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Old 03-02-2020, 04:45 PM   #7
engrmikl
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Yes sir

I have looked at that car and supposed to go back and have another look if I get a break from work. It is definitely a garage build but unlike yours it shows. He used a spray can to paint the interior. He actually just sent me some photos of the under carriage. Something about it tells me to stay clear. If the cage is in question what else is.
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Old 03-06-2020, 07:13 AM   #8
rustydawg
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Partial SE46

Hello. I sent Bobby W #52 a PM. Tom

Last edited by rustydawg; 03-06-2020 at 07:19 AM.
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Old 03-12-2020, 11:58 PM   #9
Alpinerunner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobby W. #52 View Post
I'm selling a partially built slick top sedan that I bought from Jason Tower. His original ad is here https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1190529

It's already had the rear subframe reinforcement, but no cage. It's still a very nice car inside and would be a great DD if required.

Since then, I've added the following:
  • Vorshlag camber plates
  • SPL Rear camber arms
  • 17x9 BimmerWorld TE:AL TA16 Forged Race Wheels - Gloss Black
  • 255/40r-17 Bridgestone Potenza RE-71R with one event on them
  • Rolled fenders to accommodate spec size wheels and tires
  • Weld-in oil pan baffle
  • Replaced oil pan gasket
  • Replaced coolant expansion tank
  • Replaced upper radiator hose
  • Replaced alternator
  • PFC08 pads with one track weekend on them

PM me if you're interested in more details/pics. The car is located in Raleigh, NC.
I now own Bobby's old SE46 project car. Looking forward to building it.Thanks for all the replies
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Old 03-26-2020, 06:03 PM   #10
Fooshe
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My Ride: SoCal Spec E46 #46
I am looking at selling my 2001 slick top 4 dr build.

I am in need of a coupe because I simply can't get the 4 down to the 2,850 min. weight. I think it is really lame that we have to either work our asses off or pay a butt load to do so. The weight limit should be 2,900. That being said, I still would have to struggle to get there. There is not one rational or logical reason for the weight to be to the point that people have to end up spending a fortune for the lightest parts available or paying a fortune to strip out a wiring harness just so they can be at a competitive weight. And when I ask about it...crickets. So I now am going to have to sell an absolutely great car so I can get close to where the car needs to be.

The sedan has all the stuff you would want done and on the west coast:
New 3" to 2" hans friendly harness
Magna Flo Spec Exhaust
Brake cooling ducts to front rotors
Oil pan baffle
Fresh MCS dampers, Hyperco springs, sway bars, camber plates, full solid mounts
All hoses and gaskets done
Cooling system is done
Lexan rear quarters
TA5R wheels
Lifeline Fire system
Hawk DTC pads with zimmerman rotors
Epic tune with EWS delete
Bimmerworld wheel studs
M3 replica front bumper
All chassis reinforcements
more to list, but you get the picture.
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Last edited by Fooshe; 03-26-2020 at 06:13 PM.
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Old 03-26-2020, 06:09 PM   #11
Bobby W. #52
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"I simply can't get the 4 down to the 2,850 min. weight. I think it is really lame that we have to either work our asses off or pay a butt load to do so"

Sorry to disagree, but unless you weigh 300lbs, that's flat out wrong. I have seen many builds meet weight without spending a ton. Ask for help on Facebook or take it to a shop who knows what to cut out.

I own a sedan that is definitely not a high dollar build, and I have to add ballast to make weight if I don't have water in my coolshirt system.
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Old 03-26-2020, 06:15 PM   #12
Fooshe
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Well, since I am 340 lbs., I guess that point is moot. And before you say it, yes...I know there is another way to get the car closer to weight without spending a dime. Let's save that drama, shall we.

But since you put it out there Bobby, name the ways you would cut weight without spending a ton...I would like to see how many of your suggestions I can say "done" to.

I have consulted with the tops shops on the west coast...they are also suggesting going with a coupe since it can be made lighter and it is cheaper than the labor hours to just get close.

And that was not with them building me a car so they are not suggesting it for profit reasons.

Again, other than saying "no," give me a solid and logical reason why going to 2,900 lbs is a bad idea. I'll give the lighter guys a great reason to agree...Guys who are at weight can actually corner balance the car to just about perfect.

Last edited by Fooshe; 03-29-2020 at 01:30 PM.
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Old 03-27-2020, 07:44 AM   #13
sgray944t
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I'm also in the market for a car, couple specific points:

- MUST be a coupe. I'm 6'7 and getting in and out of sedan is problematic with a cage
- Not looking to spend more than $20k, so shooting for something partially built. Gutted etc. would be preferred, but without a cage. Trying not to get too specific here since I'm open to a bunch of options. Would like as many of the spec / race parts as I can get.

If anyone has a lead on such a car feel free to reach out. Motivated buyer.
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Old 03-27-2020, 09:16 AM   #14
MrFabulous
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I have to admit I'm also unsure as to why the minimum weight is so low. 2850 is the minimum weight for Spec3 which is the E36 chassis. There are a few rule decisions that don't seem to line up. Can't use a spherical RTAB because of cost, but a $1400 shifter is allowed. Either way, I thought I was a big boy for a sedan at 260#, I comment you Fooshe for even giving it a try. Coupes for the big guys are more than just a weight consideration, the larger door opening is easier to get in and out of in case of emergency. Good luck with your sale, looks like a really nice car.
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Old 03-27-2020, 11:57 AM   #15
Fooshe
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My Ride: SoCal Spec E46 #46
Se46

sgray944t: The guy I got this car from was 6'-5" or 6'-6". I am 5'-11" (on a good day) and we both could get in the car. Ingress/Egress is not a problem. I did the measurements on the angles of the A pillars and where the seat placement is and they are within 1/4 inch.

Mr. Fab...I gotta say, I wondered the same thing. At least the shifter is options, but why a $5k set of dampers or almost $4k diff. is necessary is odd. When you add up 4-5 major pieces, you can buy and race a Spec E30 for the cost of just those parts. Regardless, us big boys are at a serious disadvantage with that lower weight limit. But the Coupe vs sedan thing I have found is not really an issue. My seat is right at the b pillar, so if the opening would be bigger it wouldn't matter since the seat would then be in my way. I was shocked at the fact that the difference is hardly measurable. Even with the food tumor to deal with, I can still get in and out of the car without issue. For me, the issue is simply that I can't get the car that light without compromising safety, let alone any comfort issues like a cool shirt set up, without having to buy the most expensive options because they are the lightest. Sure, I can buy a CF helmet & CF seat with aluminum mounts, a chillout driver cooling system, harnesses with all aluminum hardware, a double the cost fire system, etc., but choosing all those options might get me to 2,965 if I only have enough fuel for a sprint race. And the cost of doing just the obvious things would add about $10,000. Not looking for pity, just looking for a little help getting close to a fair playing field.....not all the way there, just close. The really jacked up part is even with a coupe I can only get closer to the minimum, even if it was 2,900, let alone 2,850.

As for the car, it is great! For the right weight driver, this car could be a contender for a National title.

Last edited by Fooshe; 03-27-2020 at 11:59 AM.
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Old 03-27-2020, 11:42 PM   #16
Alpinerunner
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Do you really think selling a squared away car and buying another (unknown to you) car to save 50 lbs is worth it? I think something like braking 0.5s later or optimizing your camber would more than make up for 50lbs. Sedans are stiffer, anyway.
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Old 03-28-2020, 11:34 AM   #17
Fooshe
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You know Alpinerunner, that was something I considered well before I put this out there. Then I talked with a bunch of people who build them and they are all in agreement that the coupe can be built to a lower weight, and more than 50 lbs less. To be perfectly candid, I would probably build my own car and not buy someone's effort. I would start with the right cage and simply build it around me and my needs. But that is not my real goal as I agree, the sedans are (in my humble opinion) a better chassis to run based upon what they bring to the table....other than extra Lbs.

Now I have been racing a long time. I have won regional championships, been on the podium at Nationals, etc....so I get what it takes. One thing I have learned is that you can't beat an equal driver with an inferior car without luck and them making errors if you presume all other things are equal. Sure, racecraft will help, but let's presume you have optimized your camber, have corner weighted the car the best you can and are driving on an equal level as your competitor with equal cars. If you brake earlier, your competitor can pass you deeper in the corner. Or, if there is a long enough straight, they can out run you down the straight because of you have to pull more weight. You say 50 lbs. like it's nothing and I would argue that it is something. Now double that and make it 100 lbs....that's huge among really good drivers with lower HP cars. Let's say you are 100 lbs. lighter on a 12 turn course. On average, including the typical driver errors in our class of racing, that represents anywhere from 1 to 1/12 seconds a lap. So even if I drive perfect, you get to drive making errors at every corner and can still out qualify me and stay ahead of me in a race. Over the course of a sprint race, that represents 12-15 seconds depending on the length of the course. 50 lbs. would be more like 6-7 1/2 seconds. Still think that weight doesn't make a difference? As drivers get better and the group tightens up, those 1/10th of a second start to add up quickly. I raced Spec E30 for over 10 years and I can tell you it makes all the difference in low HP/TQ cars. I can tell you this, at the front of the pack, all of the cars are optimized...sometimes a little too optimized.

Sorry, back to finding a car thread...

Last edited by Fooshe; 03-29-2020 at 01:30 PM.
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Old 03-29-2020, 06:45 AM   #18
Bobby W. #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fooshe View Post
And not one person can tell me why that is a bad thing or present a logical argument as to why the lower weight is such a good thing that it MUST not be changed. Instead, they say "it has been discussed" and offer nothing to support it.
No one wants to argue with you about it because it's been discussed to death. It went through the official rule change request process a couple of years ago and was ultimately declined. Search here or on the Facebook group and you'll find more than enough discussion. No reason to derail a thread that was originally about finding a donor car.
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Old 03-29-2020, 01:31 PM   #19
Fooshe
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I agree bobby, apologies to op.
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