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E46 Xi Forum
The E46 XI was produced from 01-05 in sedan and touring body styles. Powered by either a 2.5L inline 6 in the 325xi or a 3.0L inline 6 330xi. Discuss all thing about BMW AWD E46 'Xi' here.

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Old 06-03-2019, 03:41 PM   #341
mr_y82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooolone View Post
Mine were black as well, ordered through the web, will look and see if I saved link. Got them in a week. Definitely dropped about 0.75" on front.

I used Bilstein but if I go with Eibach, will change to Koni or maybe even coilovers instead. Not doing anything aggressive that would justify the expense of CO's though, so will think that through.

Strut tower braces helped me on other vehicles so I think would here too. Any recommendations for brand?
I saw something a while back from a reputable vendor that basically said the e46 was rigid enough that strut tower braces were basically just cosmetic, and did not reap the same benefit as they might on an e36, or especially e30...

edit: I searched my bookmarks... here ya go.

http://news.bimmerworld.com/is-a-strut-brace-worth-it/
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Last edited by mr_y82; 06-03-2019 at 03:44 PM.
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Old 06-11-2019, 06:18 PM   #342
wfx32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EvaJuli View Post
Mine were black.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooolone View Post
Mine were black as well, ordered through the web, will look and see if I saved link. Got them in a week. Definitely dropped about 0.75" on front.
B12 (PRO-KIT) - SUSPENSION KIT
Part Number: 46-242785
Product Type: Suspension Kit
Quantity per Vehicle: 1
Warranty: Limited Lifetime Warranty
Notes:
- Front Lowered Height: 30mm, up to 1010kg Axle Load
- Rear Lowered Height: 20-25mm, up to 1250kg Axle Load
- Without Self-Leveling Suspension
- Must reuse O.E. spring seat

i just ordered these SUFT015 from supremepower.com and sent a query to the manufacturer (supersport.de) ..

so which springs did you guys use with the SUFT015 .. i am wondering if these SUFT015 will only work with BMW OE or bilstein b3 springs but not the H&R or eibach springs?
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Old 06-14-2019, 05:28 AM   #343
Cooolone
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I used stock springs, my understanding is either of the others will work. Keep in mind they have different heights and rates though. H&R lowest and most stiff. Of course the right way to do it would be matching the strut & spring rates regardless. But at that cost, might as well just go coilover. Lol

As mentioned, I might go with the eibach's to gain an additional 3/4" drop in front...
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Old 06-14-2019, 10:08 AM   #344
wfx32
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Originally Posted by Cooolone View Post
I used stock springs, my understanding is either of the others will work.
i am going with stock height springs for now also. after reading some of the torn boot and axle issues reported here by our vanished forebears, i am hesitant to try the lowering springs with the xi..

i was very close to going with the bilstein b12 kit (eibach prokit lowering springs plus b8 shocks/struts). but for now i will just go with the bilstein b8 shocks .. apparently they work well with both regular and lowering springs.

rear spring is cracked so i am putting in bilstein b3 regular height springs. at some point i will try the eibach or h&r lowering springs .. maybe with new GKN axles from FCP?

maybe with the koni or rob43 adjustable shocks instead of bilstein b8.. i am hoping someone will spill the beans here on the german autosport ebay .. so which RWD springs and which adjustable shocks?
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Old 07-06-2019, 11:12 AM   #345
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I never heard back from Rob43, and having pretty much given up on anyone here ever spilling the beans, I decided to place an order with TireRack for the Eibach / Koni kit.

And ... it's on backorder, so will take six weeks or so.

For a nanosecond I considered just getting new Dinan stuff to replicate the knackered setup that's already on the car, but I can't really justify the expense. And in the absence of Rob43's trade secrets, the Eibach / Koni kit from TireRack is the best deal I could find.

I've also ordered a boatload of stuff from FCP Euro to replace all the other suspension wear parts, so I'm looking forward to a completely transformed driving experience in a couple of months' time

[edit: I ordered the drop hats too]

Last edited by Jimmy_B; 07-06-2019 at 11:13 AM.
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Old 07-06-2019, 11:41 AM   #346
wfx32
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Originally Posted by Jimmy_B View Post
I never heard back from Rob43, and having pretty much given up on anyone here ever spilling the beans, I decided to place an order with TireRack for the Eibach / Koni kit.
i am going to try that setup at some point also. a track mechanic here recommended koni, but he said they can be time consuming to adjust.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Y View Post
Ride: The Eibachs have more initial compliance than the HRs. They seem to firm up nicely under load, but not as much as the HRs. Because of that the HRs seemed harsher, but that harshness could be attributed to the stock dampers that were worn and couldn't keep up. The Eibachs don't float on undulating surfaces like a stock Xi might, but they do more to smooth them out v.s. following the surface like the HRs did.

this is a great comparison, and i hope to get a chance to compare these as well. new stock springs (bilstein b3) improved the ride dramatically, but i am still considering the eibach pro kit or h&r lowering springs. it seems there are different h&r versions, blue or black.
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Old 07-06-2019, 11:56 AM   #347
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Well, I've got a Rob43 suspension, and Rob won't return my emails either, so I'm guessing he's moved on. There wasn't really anything magical about his setup, but he did have some good ideas for low-cost alternatives to more mainstream favorites. And I will admit that I loved his 9-way externally adjustable rear shocks. These were an aftermarket truck shock that Rob found that fit the e46. And while it worked it was great, because at the track you could tune your rear shocks just like adjustable Konis in the front. But I had trouble getting those shocks that worked right out of the box and had to go through two rounds of exchanges to get a set that worked. And the adjuster fell off one shock after a year, so I had one full stiff and one adjustable. I ended up replacing them with Koni yellow sports in the rear, even though they have to be removed from the car to make adjustments. TCKline cells a modified version of these shocks that are externally adjustable, but I think the adjuster is on the top of the shock, which doesn't really work for me in a touring. Rob did find a set of sport springs for me for ridiculously cheap which was great, but they were standard B&G aftermarket springs that just happened to come up on Amazon for a terrific price. Most of Rob's information was good common sense gleaned from experience. The only secret-sauce were those externally adjustable rear shocks.

I can offer up my favorite suspension, which I use in my 2002 325iT on the track and as my daily driver, but its just my opinion. Koni sport yellows, a nice set of sport springs, and bigger sway bars. I was running a used e46 M3 sway bar up front (60% stiffer than stock) and the thicker rear sway bars from an xi in the rear (50% stiffer than stock). I was getting more body roll than I wanted on the track, so I just bought some Hotchkis sway bars and H&R race springs. Make sure all your rubber bushings are good to minimize chassis unpredictability. I am also installing some Powerflex black front lower control arm bushings, and the Bimmerworld rear trailing arm bushing bearing kit. Increasing the stiffness of the suspension in these two positions should make a noticeable improvement in steering feel on the track, and have minimal increase in NVH, according to two independent e46 mechanics that I trust. Another widely-known mod to decrease suspension binding is to replace the outer bushing on the rear lower control arm with the sealed bearing used in the top outer control arm, as came on the e46 M3. An aftermarket adjustable lower control arm will let you set camber in the rear. Rob found a cheap adjustable LCA on eBay which worked fine, but I just replaced it with a Bimmeworld version because it has a sealed factory bearing at the inboard position instead of a bushing, also reducing suspension binding. Getting more camber up front is difficult without spending for camber plates. On Rob's suggestion I slotted my shock towers so I could slide the shock mount inboard about 0.5", which got me to -1.7 degrees camber. This made a noticeable improvement on turn-in. However, with all the concern about e46 weak shock towers, I started having misgivings about removing metal, so I just ordered some Ground Control street adjustable camber plates. They are not cheap but they allow camber adjustment and have a urethane busing instead of a spherical bearing, so they should be quiet on the street, and they work with stock springs. An alternative would be to get and H&R coilover setup, which friends say is terrific. I do my own alignments using the Smart Strings setup, and set it to 1mm toe-in, which is pretty common among RWD track junkies. For street use I'd probably use factory specs, or just under.

Returning to the xi part of this thread, while my current car is a 2002 RWD 325iT, my previous car was a 2001 325xiT. I did not have luck lowering that car, as I keep tearing front axle boots. I also found the H&R sport springs were too harsh, and had too much drop for the front axles. For an xi I think I'd use the Koni yellow sport shocks, a mild spring kit like the Eibach Pro or stay stock, and then make sure all my rubber bushings were good.

Just my $0.02
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Old 07-06-2019, 12:36 PM   #348
wfx32
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Originally Posted by 76m2002 View Post
Returning to the xi part of this thread, while my current car is a 2002 RWD 325iT, my previous car was a 2001 325xiT. I did not have luck lowering that car, as I keep tearing front axle boots. I also found the H&R sport springs were too harsh, and had too much drop for the front axles. For an xi I think I'd use the Koni yellow sport shocks, a mild spring kit like the Eibach Pro or stay stock, and then make sure all my rubber bushings were good.

some great info and advice there, thank you. since you were tracking the car, and you have experience with both the AWD and RWD, i am wondering if you have any subframe mount chassis concern/opinion? have you tried the powerflex bushing inserts?
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Old 07-06-2019, 12:49 PM   #349
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I haven't tried the Powerflex subframe bushings, but my mechanic friends said they would not cause a noticeable increase in NVH. My rubber bushings are only two years old, so I'll keep them for now but will probably replace them with poly when the time comes.
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Old 07-06-2019, 05:23 PM   #350
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Powerflex= good
Finding Rob43 = double good
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Old 07-06-2019, 05:57 PM   #351
wfx32
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Originally Posted by dlmrun2002 View Post
Powerflex= good
Finding Rob43 = double good
thanks .. i did finally get rob’s number but decided not to call him.. i found another track mechanic in richmond who recommended koni with h&r springs. this is the guy that repaired the rear diff and found that the diff mount bushings were beginning to split. he suggested these powerflex bushing inserts which go on top of the bushings to fill the space between the subframe and the chassis:

Quote:
Originally Posted by wfx32 View Post
or these powerflex subframe bushing inserts are a better preventative measure?
https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/pr...ng-insert-3626
https://www.powerflexusa.com/shop/pr...g-inserts-3747
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Old 07-07-2019, 03:08 AM   #352
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hi

Hi I tried sending you(rob43) a PM but your inbox is full, gotta ask you a question about ITBs.

Last edited by frank15p; 07-07-2019 at 03:08 AM.
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Old 07-07-2019, 06:01 AM   #353
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Originally Posted by 76m2002 View Post
Well, I've got a Rob43 suspension, and Rob won't return my emails either, so I'm guessing he's moved on. There wasn't really anything magical about his setup, but he did have some good ideas for low-cost alternatives to more mainstream favorites. And I will admit that I loved his 9-way externally adjustable rear shocks. These were an aftermarket truck shock that Rob found that fit the e46. And while it worked it was great, because at the track you could tune your rear shocks just like adjustable Konis in the front. But I had trouble getting those shocks that worked right out of the box and had to go through two rounds of exchanges to get a set that worked. And the adjuster fell off one shock after a year, so I had one full stiff and one adjustable. I ended up replacing them with Koni yellow sports in the rear, even though they have to be removed from the car to make adjustments. TCKline cells a modified version of these shocks that are externally adjustable, but I think the adjuster is on the top of the shock, which doesn't really work for me in a touring. Rob did find a set of sport springs for me for ridiculously cheap which was great, but they were standard B&G aftermarket springs that just happened to come up on Amazon for a terrific price. Most of Rob's information was good common sense gleaned from experience. The only secret-sauce were those externally adjustable rear shocks.

I can offer up my favorite suspension, which I use in my 2002 325iT on the track and as my daily driver, but its just my opinion. Koni sport yellows, a nice set of sport springs, and bigger sway bars. I was running a used e46 M3 sway bar up front (60% stiffer than stock) and the thicker rear sway bars from an xi in the rear (50% stiffer than stock). I was getting more body roll than I wanted on the track, so I just bought some Hotchkis sway bars and H&R race springs. Make sure all your rubber bushings are good to minimize chassis unpredictability. I am also installing some Powerflex black front lower control arm bushings, and the Bimmerworld rear trailing arm bushing bearing kit. Increasing the stiffness of the suspension in these two positions should make a noticeable improvement in steering feel on the track, and have minimal increase in NVH, according to two independent e46 mechanics that I trust. Another widely-known mod to decrease suspension binding is to replace the outer bushing on the rear lower control arm with the sealed bearing used in the top outer control arm, as came on the e46 M3. An aftermarket adjustable lower control arm will let you set camber in the rear. Rob found a cheap adjustable LCA on eBay which worked fine, but I just replaced it with a Bimmeworld version because it has a sealed factory bearing at the inboard position instead of a bushing, also reducing suspension binding. Getting more camber up front is difficult without spending for camber plates. On Rob's suggestion I slotted my shock towers so I could slide the shock mount inboard about 0.5", which got me to -1.7 degrees camber. This made a noticeable improvement on turn-in. However, with all the concern about e46 weak shock towers, I started having misgivings about removing metal, so I just ordered some Ground Control street adjustable camber plates. They are not cheap but they allow camber adjustment and have a urethane busing instead of a spherical bearing, so they should be quiet on the street, and they work with stock springs. An alternative would be to get and H&R coilover setup, which friends say is terrific. I do my own alignments using the Smart Strings setup, and set it to 1mm toe-in, which is pretty common among RWD track junkies. For street use I'd probably use factory specs, or just under.

Returning to the xi part of this thread, while my current car is a 2002 RWD 325iT, my previous car was a 2001 325xiT. I did not have luck lowering that car, as I keep tearing front axle boots. I also found the H&R sport springs were too harsh, and had too much drop for the front axles. For an xi I think I'd use the Koni yellow sport shocks, a mild spring kit like the Eibach Pro or stay stock, and then make sure all my rubber bushings were good.

Just my $0.02
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience! Where's the "like" button!? Lol...

Question: when pairing your components, were you able to ascertain Spring and Strut rates? Match them?

Regards
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Old 07-07-2019, 07:58 AM   #354
wfx32
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Originally Posted by 76m2002 View Post
And I will admit that I loved his 9-way externally adjustable rear shocks. These were an aftermarket truck shock that Rob found that fit the e46. And while it worked it was great, because at the track you could tune your rear shocks just like adjustable Konis in the front. But I had trouble getting those shocks that worked right out of the box and had to go through two rounds of exchanges to get a set that worked. And the adjuster fell off one shock after a year, so I had one full stiff and one adjustable. I ended up replacing them with Koni yellow sports in the rear, even though they have to be removed from the car to make adjustments. TCKline cells a modified version of these shocks that are externally adjustable, but I think the adjuster is on the top of the shock, which doesn't really work for me in a touring.

sounds like convenience for the adjustment comes at a cost of durability. this is exactly the kind of useful information you can get from this board.

bilstein has had some spectacular failures in years past and the components are always in short supply but i think for street cars their range of B4, B6, B8 products should satisfy most people.

right now i am running two year old stock struts (bilstein B4), supersport suft015 drop hats, new stock springs (bilstein B3), new performance shocks (bilstein B8), new meyle shock mounts, front and rear reinforcement plates.

a bit of a mix and match there but the ride and handling are awesome. better than when the car was brand new.
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Old 07-07-2019, 08:46 AM   #355
EvaJuli
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Quote:

right now i am running two year old stock struts (bilstein B4), supersport suft015 drop hats, new stock springs (bilstein B3), new performance shocks (bilstein B8), new meyle shock mounts, front and rear reinforcement plates.

a bit of a mix and match there but the ride and handling are awesome. better than when the car was brand new.

Whats the tire gap look like on this? Is the car level? Would like pics if possible.
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Old 07-07-2019, 09:20 AM   #356
wfx32
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yes i think it’s level.. i expected more of a drop in the front but solved the ‘reverse rake’ issue. now maybe 1/8 of an inch higher in the front.Click image for larger version

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Old 07-07-2019, 09:59 AM   #357
76m2002
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cooolone View Post
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and experience! Where's the "like" button!? Lol...
Question: when pairing your components, were you able to ascertain Spring and Strut rates? Match them?
Regards
I'm glad the information is helpful. Since I put my system together with standard struts and springs, I didn't have access to any specifics, as I might if I had gone with a coilover. Instead, I'm going with recommendation from folks I trust. I'm installing the new springs now, so don't have any experience with them yet. I did have to crank the Konis up at least mid-way to avoid being over-powered by the B&G springs, which kind of surprised me. But the ride is not bad at 3/4 stiff in the front, so I'm optimistic.
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Old 07-07-2019, 10:05 AM   #358
76m2002
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Originally Posted by wfx32 View Post
yes i think it's level.. i expected more of a drop in the front but solved the 'reverse rake' issue. now maybe 1/8 of an inch higher in the front.Attachment 779011
One thing you can do to raise the rear a bit is to make your own spring spacers in the rear. Go to Target and buy a couple of thin plastic cutting boards, and cut them into donut-shaped pieces with a jigsaw. Put those pieces under your springs to get a bit of raise in the rear. Several race technicians that I know do this, and I've had it for the past two years, on and off track with no drama.
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Old 07-07-2019, 10:52 AM   #359
wfx32
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Xi Lowering / Have Your Cake & Eat It Too

Quote:
Originally Posted by 76m2002 View Post
One thing you can do to raise the rear a bit is to make your own spring spacers in the rear. Go to Target and buy a couple of thin plastic cutting boards, and cut them into donut-shaped pieces with a jigsaw. Put those pieces under your springs to get a bit of raise in the rear. Several race technicians that I know do this, and I've had it for the past two years, on and off track with no drama.

thanks that is a good idea. i think the reinforcement plates (51717036781) under the strut towers are raising the front a bit. also the front struts (bilstein b4) are pretty new.

the other thing i was considering was to install the front lowering springs (eibach or h&r) and keep the regular height springs (bilstein b3) in the back.

or even better .. install the matching b8 struts in the front (22-242617(fcp), 22-242624(fcp)). those b8 struts are hard to find right now, and the b4 were only two years old so i wanted to try this mismatch setup first.

Last edited by wfx32; 07-07-2019 at 12:54 PM. Reason: fcp has them now
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Old 07-07-2019, 01:42 PM   #360
wfx32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 76m2002 View Post
One thing you can do to raise the rear a bit is to make your own spring spacers in the rear. Go to Target and buy a couple of thin plastic cutting boards, and cut them into donut-shaped pieces with a jigsaw. Put those pieces under your springs to get a bit of raise in the rear. Several race technicians that I know do this, and I've had it for the past two years, on and off track with no drama.
Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
If you want to pick up the rear you can use E36 10mm lower rear spring pads as uppers on an E46. Part number 33 53 1 136 387. It's only 5mm different than stock but 5mm that far inboard of the wheel can make a very noticeable difference.
Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
The two most common possibilities is the front shocks either aren't seated correctly in the steering knuckle/spindle or the springs aren't sitting properly on the spring seats. The lower seat on this car has two places where it looks like the spring could sit and if put on the wrong one it changes the ride height significantly. The instinctive point to line up the end of the spring on the seat for most mechanics is wrong and makes the car sit nose-high.
Quote:
Originally Posted by always-there View Post
I went ahead and took the struts apart that night-- It turns out the strut wasn't in all the way. The struts have 2 pin looking guides that are supposed to sink in till the second pin goes in. I had to use a jack and hit the sides of the spindle for it to go in all the way..trial and error.
[email protected] suggested these E36 spring pads that accomplish the same, but i have a feeling the struts are not seated correctly.

Last edited by wfx32; 07-08-2019 at 03:48 PM.
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