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Old 03-19-2019, 12:59 AM   #1
Trent_teezy
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2002 BMW 325i problems?

Will try Keep this as short and simple as possible. while also effectively answering and asking questions.

Bought a used 2002 Alpine White BMW 325i From a private party, 135k miles. (Will upload pictures later on)

Runs and drives ok I guess.
Car has some history on it and Has some issues that Iíll list that I KNOW OF

1. Driver side window doesnít work
(previous owner bought and provided a new regulator)

2.sunroof doesnít work at all.
(Press the button and all you hear is the sunroof motor and some loud noise)

3.Alternator?

Had it tested at autozone. Voltage was too low to be read even on fully charged battery. Guy said seemed like the car alternator wasnít working and car was running on the battery.

Headlights slightly flicker and dash and radio lights dim dramatically when headlights are on. Car battery drains quickly. Has to be taken out of car and charged often when parked overnight.
car Starts up but has a slight hesitation sometimes.

Lights on dash will get VERY dim and radio will shut off when battery is getting low. Car will run very limp showing the cog symbol around the ďDĒ for drive on the dash. If I turn on the headlights car will nearly die and shut off.

Apparently itís a New battery previous owner bought on 3/18 itís a (MAXX everstart 24f 725 CCA) was told to try a more powerful battery by a Reputable BMW Indy shop near me. He recommended a interstate battery.

4.rough idle at low rpm and at car start up when idling. (Sometimes)

Car sometimes will have a slight rough idle at low rpm and sometimes car will stall out or cut off. Also car will shut off when given gas or when put into drive or reverse. Or car will start up and shut right off. Does this sometimes not all the time. Will provide video below.

5. Lights on the dash.
(Brake,abs,DSC,windshield washer fluid light,service engine light, and etc) youíll see when I upload pictures & videos later on.

6. Has 13 codes read by autozone.


7. High beams donít work anymore.
I pressed my ďBoard ComputerĒ button one day out of curiosity while driving with my headlights on. And first it made my dash start flickering and headlights too.

Then they cutoff and came back on. Now when I press my high beams nothing happens anymore. Was working before I pressed that button. Seems like me pressing it caused something to short circuit or cause some type of electrical problem. And now my high beam lights are on on my dash for the headlights now permanently since that happened.

8. Pretty sure something electrical is wrong

previous owner has installed HID light bulbs or whatever. Only one works the one on the driver side works sometimes when it Wants too he also installed aftermarket door speakers,subwoofer in the trunk As the wiring for it is still there. And also thereís a cheap alarm installed because the main key doesnít work. Canít unlock or lock the car without using the alarm keyfob. All this could of been too much load for the alternator to handle which probably killed it I assume.

9. Also needs alignment and cosmetic TLC.

front bumper and rear bumper are hanging off slightly on the sides. Looks like they both might fall off lol. Headlights slightly foggy. Needs headliner redone. Itís sagging and needs to be done on the sunroof as well.

Might delete this post and re-type it with updated information and pictures or just add and update it as I go along.



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Old 03-19-2019, 01:02 AM   #2
Trent_teezy
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Link to video of car starting up and shutting right off




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Old 03-19-2019, 01:13 AM   #3
C3trevor
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Iíd start with replacing the alternator. They do lots of unusual things if the charging system isnít working.


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Old 03-19-2019, 05:42 AM   #4
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First you need to sort the charging problem. If the car has a Bosch alternator installed, you should be able to replace the regulator/brush pack for under $50. You should be able to find a label on the rear side of the alternator while it is still installed. The air box filter box may need to be removed. These cars used either Valeo or Bosch alternators. Either one will have this label with a name on it.

As for the rough running, you need to read the first post in this thread at least 3 times, it was written for people with problems like yours: Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Then you need to spend $45 and get your own OBDII App and interface for your iProduct. You WILL need this.

The OBDFusion App and proper VeePeak interface from Amazon are less than $45 for both for iProducts, less than $20 for both for Android.

OBDFusion for Android is $4.99 from the Google Play Store.

For Android this lower cost standard Bluetooth interface in the link below works well, but DO NOT try to use this with iProducts. For Android devices that support Bluetooth 4.0 or higher, the VeePeak LE Bluetooth (BLE) interface also works. Make sure your Android device will support Bluetooth 4.0 or higher before you consider purchasing this interface.

While the VeePeak LE Bluetooth interface is more expensive, I prefer the slightly larger size of this interface along with the built in/molded grip that makes it far easier to remove from the OBDII port than than the smaller form factor standard VeePeak Bluetooth interface. The VeePeak LE Bluetooth interface is also overall more "Universal" because it will work with most iProducts as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluet...peak+bluetooth

OBDFusion, for the iProducts it is $9.99 from the Apple App Store.

For iProducts you NEED a LE Bluetooth (BLE) adapter which are more expensive. VeePeak now offers a LE Bluetooth interface that is compatible with OBDFusion in the link below. While people have used the Wifi adapter, I would HIGHLY recommend NOT using Wifi with iProducts, brings a lot of baggage and stability issues. Additionally the VeePeak LE Bluetooth interface will work with newer Android phones that support Bluetooth 4.0 or higher. While the Veepeak LE Bluetooth is more expensive, I prefer this interface even for Android because it is easier to install and remove because of the built in/molded grip .

https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-OBDCh...ywords=veepeak

Short version for configuration on OBDFusion.

YOU MUST change the Airflow from lb/min to g/s. Should be under General, Settings, Units, Airflow.

YOU MUST check the box to Auto Save Diagnostic Report. Can be found Settings, General, all the way to the bottom of the display Diagnostics, Auto Store Diagnostic Report, make sure to "check" the box.

Another think, DO NOT post screen shots, they SUX from ANY App or program.

Run a Diagnostic Report, under Diagnostics, Report (note if you have a small phone you WILL NOT see report in the top Menu banner, you will ONLY see Trouble Codes, Freeze Frame and PID Values. You MUST touch any one of the 3 previously mentioned Menu items and then swipe from Right to Left to find Report. OR turn the phone from Portrait to Landscape. Run the Diagnostic Report while the engine is warm and at idle in Park/Neutral with no load (lights, AC, heated seats or rear defroster). IGNORE any pop up warning about running the Diagnostic Report while the engine is running.

Then either post the Diagnostic Report via a DropBox or some other file sharing link or READ the PDF in the link attached below and send it to the email address in the Logging instructions.

https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1097893
__________________
Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 03-19-2019, 02:37 PM   #5
Trent_teezy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by C3trevor View Post
Iíd start with replacing the alternator. They do lots of unusual things if the charging system isnít working.


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Definitely going to look into it. Taking it to be professionally diagnosed this weekend will update you guys on that as well


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Old 03-19-2019, 02:39 PM   #6
Trent_teezy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jfoj View Post
First you need to sort the charging problem. If the car has a Bosch alternator installed, you should be able to replace the regulator/brush pack for under $50. You should be able to find a label on the rear side of the alternator while it is still installed. The air box filter box may need to be removed. These cars used either Valeo or Bosch alternators. Either one will have this label with a name on it.



As for the rough running, you need to read the first post in this thread at least 3 times, it was written for people with problems like yours: Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616



Then you need to spend $45 and get your own OBDII App and interface for your iProduct. You WILL need this.



The OBDFusion App and proper VeePeak interface from Amazon are less than $45 for both for iProducts, less than $20 for both for Android.



OBDFusion for Android is $4.99 from the Google Play Store.



For Android this lower cost standard Bluetooth interface in the link below works well, but DO NOT try to use this with iProducts. For Android devices that support Bluetooth 4.0 or higher, the VeePeak LE Bluetooth (BLE) interface also works. Make sure your Android device will support Bluetooth 4.0 or higher before you consider purchasing this interface.



While the VeePeak LE Bluetooth interface is more expensive, I prefer the slightly larger size of this interface along with the built in/molded grip that makes it far easier to remove from the OBDII port than than the smaller form factor standard VeePeak Bluetooth interface. The VeePeak LE Bluetooth interface is also overall more "Universal" because it will work with most iProducts as well.



https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluet...peak+bluetooth



OBDFusion, for the iProducts it is $9.99 from the Apple App Store.



For iProducts you NEED a LE Bluetooth (BLE) adapter which are more expensive. VeePeak now offers a LE Bluetooth interface that is compatible with OBDFusion in the link below. While people have used the Wifi adapter, I would HIGHLY recommend NOT using Wifi with iProducts, brings a lot of baggage and stability issues. Additionally the VeePeak LE Bluetooth interface will work with newer Android phones that support Bluetooth 4.0 or higher. While the Veepeak LE Bluetooth is more expensive, I prefer this interface even for Android because it is easier to install and remove because of the built in/molded grip .



https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-OBDCh...ywords=veepeak



Short version for configuration on OBDFusion.



YOU MUST change the Airflow from lb/min to g/s. Should be under General, Settings, Units, Airflow.



YOU MUST check the box to Auto Save Diagnostic Report. Can be found Settings, General, all the way to the bottom of the display Diagnostics, Auto Store Diagnostic Report, make sure to "check" the box.



Another think, DO NOT post screen shots, they SUX from ANY App or program.



Run a Diagnostic Report, under Diagnostics, Report (note if you have a small phone you WILL NOT see report in the top Menu banner, you will ONLY see Trouble Codes, Freeze Frame and PID Values. You MUST touch any one of the 3 previously mentioned Menu items and then swipe from Right to Left to find Report. OR turn the phone from Portrait to Landscape. Run the Diagnostic Report while the engine is warm and at idle in Park/Neutral with no load (lights, AC, heated seats or rear defroster). IGNORE any pop up warning about running the Diagnostic Report while the engine is running.



Then either post the Diagnostic Report via a DropBox or some other file sharing link or READ the PDF in the link attached below and send it to the email address in the Logging instructions.



https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1097893


A lot of valuable information here. Let me take some time to digest and evaluate this information will definitely look into everything youíre saying.


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Old 03-19-2019, 03:00 PM   #7
Trent_teezy
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As promised pictures and videos of the car.

Few pictures of the bumpers hanging off.


Picture of the dash when car turned to accessory mode


Picture of dash when car is turned on


as you can see the red oil light goes away when car is turned on. I put oil in it not too long ago when I first bought it.

Because the Oil light was first yellow and I continued to drive it thinking it was just illuminating for no reason

until one day driving home from work it turned red and the car started idling very ROUGH and it did that thing where you give it gas or put it in reverse or drive and it shut off/stall out. And I could smell the oil like it was burnt. Had to drive it unfortunately for like 5 miles limping Down the road to a friends home. With the cog symbol around the ďDĒ assuming it was in safe mode could only drive literally only 5-10 mph at like 1-3k rpm.

At one point I stopped at a stop light and I turned the car off and turned it back on and it started driving fine and the oil light went off. Drove it to my friends and parked it and went to buy oil for it the following morning.


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Old 03-19-2019, 03:04 PM   #8
Trent_teezy
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Link to video of car


Link to video of sunroof problem



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Old 03-19-2019, 06:51 PM   #9
armenh7
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Red oil light = no oil pressure = bye bye engine
I see the battery light wasn't on even with the key in accessory mode. I feel as though the previous owner disabled it
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Old 03-19-2019, 08:36 PM   #10
Trent_teezy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by armenh7 View Post
Red oil light = no oil pressure = bye bye engine
I see the battery light wasn't on even with the key in accessory mode. I feel as though the previous owner disabled it


No oil pressure? Iím legitimately scared now. And disabled it? How so?


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Old 03-19-2019, 08:39 PM   #11
armenh7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trent_teezy View Post
No oil pressure? I'm legitimately scared now. And disabled it? How so?


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A lot of things on E46's can be coded. You can disable the check engine light, airbag light, DSC light, etc.

Last edited by armenh7; 03-19-2019 at 08:40 PM.
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Old 03-20-2019, 07:18 AM   #12
bmwj440
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c3trevor View Post
iíd start with replacing the alternator. They do lots of unusual things if the charging system isnít working.


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i concur.
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Old 03-20-2019, 08:46 AM   #13
B-Dawg
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I hope you got a screaming good deal on it.
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2002 325i 5mt sedan
2015 Ford Focus ST
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2004 325i 5mt sedan (sold)
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Old 03-20-2019, 10:50 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bmwj440 View Post
i concur.
As JFOJ said, replace the voltage regulator, not the whole alternator.

I would also do some soul-searching about becoming a hobbyist mechanic. Nothing on your list is very hard unless the engine has overheated or run out of oil, but you have 3-4 projects each of which could be $1000 or more to get done for you.

Btw, your bumpers are likely fine. The disconnected pieces are the bumper covers, which are just plastic trim that screw and snap together. Iíd get on your hands and knees with a light and look at how it clips and screws together. It may be as simple as a few missing screws and pushing the edge of the trim into a clip. Or you may have to replace a clip of it is damaged. Both easy.
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Old 03-20-2019, 10:53 AM   #15
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You also likely have either a failing fuel pump, a vacuum leak or both. Take a look where
https://www.pelicanparts.com/BMW/tec...mp_Testing.htm

JFOJ's Post is the Bible, btw
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Old 03-20-2019, 11:08 AM   #16
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All your issues seem to be electrical.

It is surprising your battery light isn't on though. So, maybe first learn to measure your voltage with multimeter or cluster (tl:dr) and see what you have. If you do have 14V from the Alt (plus or minus) start checking all the connections starting with the black/ground wire on the battery to the car. Check the battery safe terminal...they get loose coming off the positive cable.

Check engine grounds, for tightness and corrosion...and good luck!

Oh, some suggested the bat light was turned off...I guess one might be able to do that...so if you can get or find a friend with software you could look into that.

...check out your regional forums if you haven't and make yourself an e46 buddy.
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Old 03-20-2019, 01:41 PM   #17
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Run a Cluster Test to make sure all Error Lights work, but from your picture, many are working! Use the Hidden OBC Menu function info below.

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

You can also monitor the charging Voltage, 13.2-14.2 should be a valid number on the OBC display, real values with a decent Voltmeter are 13.5-14.5 under all load conditions. You may try to connect a negative jumper cable from the engine block at a good solid metal point that will not interfere with the fan and connect the other side to the NEGATIVE under hood jumper nut on the right front strut tower and see if the Voltage increases while the engine is running, if it does the engine to body ground is bad.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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Old 03-20-2019, 01:50 PM   #18
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Following!this seems like a very interesting thread

Last edited by penak; 03-20-2019 at 01:54 PM.
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Old 03-21-2019, 05:56 AM   #19
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Your sunroof problem is caused by a broken sunroof cassette. There is a cable that breaks through the cassette on the driver's side. If you partly pull down the headliner, you will be able to see it. Some people are lucky and able to epoxy it back together. I was not lucky and had to put in a used cassette from the junkyard. You should also check the gear on the sunroof motor. If it is chewed up, which it likely is from attempting to open and close the broken sunroof, you will either need to replace the motor or the motor gear. I had to drop my headliner to install my sunroof cassette. I used the old motor with chewed up teeth and the cables went out of alignment on the junkyard cassette. Instead of buying a new motor, I took the gear out of a junkyard motor and put that into my motor.

As for your car running lean and misfiring on multiple cylinders, when that happens to me, it is usually the DISA gasket. I would take the DISA valve out, check that it is working properly, and then put RTV silicone around the DISA gasket. That has solved my lean problems on 3 E46s I've encountered. However, your lean problem could still be caused by a broken intake boot, bad valve cover gasket, broken valve cover, broken CCV, bad dipstick o-ring, or broken secondary air injection pump check valve hose. A smoke test is needed at that point.

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Old 03-21-2019, 06:01 AM   #20
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Do yourself a favor and DO NOT use silicon sealer on the DISA. Remove the original cast silicon seal and replace it with the proper size O-ring. Makes for a proper repair and easier DISA removal and resealing in the future. SAP vacuum hoses may be a problem, but these hoses alone will not cause Lean codes on both banks, you have much bigger problems.
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Solve your misfires, lean codes, rough idle - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=897616

Fuel pump failures - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=929501

Temp Info - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=964491

Hidden OBC Menu - Check Voltage, Temp, Fuel Level - https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=239619

E46/E39 GM5 Door Lock Info - www.bmwgm5.com

Lower hose temp switch O-ring - BMW #13621743299
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