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Old 06-18-2007, 10:54 AM   #201
aridaen
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GM5 Relays

I still have my problem, but am willing to try the relays. As for the type and quantity, I have a sedan with sunroof and there are 4 Siemens relays. neoekai, Sorry I took so long to reply to answer your question about which connections I soldered, it was all of them on the bottom of the board. My problem doesn't appear to be as serious as everyone elses, but annoying just the same. Here is a photo of the insides of my GM5 for reference.
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Old 06-18-2007, 02:00 PM   #202
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My case is pretty severe, and it gets really embarrasing when trying to let people into my car! So the issuei s the relays? i am not good w/ electical stuff, can i just get another complete board to replace mine?
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Old 06-18-2007, 05:24 PM   #203
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Thinking about it more, my problem clears up when the front passenger door is opened and closed. This makes me think loose connection/door sensor problem rather than relays. Anyhow, I made a DIY when I removed my GM5 and have it attached. When I get the time, I will study the electrical schematics and trace the connections.
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Old 06-18-2007, 08:43 PM   #204
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This is crazy cause I'm going through the same thing. The remote locks only work sometimes and now the central lock and hazard buttons don't work at all. It's scarey cause if I get into an accident and my kids have to get out they won't be able too. They have to pull on the handle a couple of times before it opens. I just ordered a new central locking module from some web site I found on google. Let you know if that works.......
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Old 07-09-2007, 05:10 PM   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emayers04 View Post
I just recently had removed my door handles to get them painted along w/ the rest of my car. After installing all of them I made sure to test the luck/unlock and opening function of the doors BEFORE I closed them. All 4 doors open and closed, locked and unlocked fine.

When I went to open the passenger side door it would not budge. I still have the interior panels off from removing the door handles. I tried opening the passenger door from the inside via the cable and nothing happened. I hear the latch moving inside but it doesn't open.

To check and see if i had left the allen bolt loose, I checked the driver side door. I loosened the allen bolt to reset the outside handle. When I did that the driver door would not open w/ the outside handle but would w/ the inside handle. However the passenger door will not open no matter what handle I use, how many times I lock or unlock it, how many times I use the unlock button inside the car.

I have no idea how to open my passenger door 'cause the bolts holding the lock are only accessible when the door is open!! All other doors woork fine. Does anybody know how to get the door open short of haveing to cut the sheet metal on my door???
Well bad news... as I've said before, I'm having the exact same problem that this guy is having. ^^^

So the first thing I did, instead of replacing any relays or computer modules, was to try a computer module that I knew would work, i.e. one out of my friends car. We both have an 01' coupe, and after installing his module in my car (and using his key to unlock my car), the door would still not open. So I have ruled out the possibility of the GM5 module being the source of the problem for my car, since two different modules yield the same results with no difference in how/when the car locks and unlocks.

So I fear that the problem is mechanical as well... someone mentioned the actuators though. Can these be replaced with the door sealed shut? My final resort is going to be to take off the trim panel next to the rear seat and see if I can somehow drill out the latch, because I'm willing to try anything at this point short of cutting open my door.

In addition, has anyone contacted BMWNA about this issue? It seems a lot of people have this quite serious problem, and even the dealer has heard of it but offered no ideas on how to fix it except to "cut open your door".
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Old 07-09-2007, 06:40 PM   #206
Bruce Wayne
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This was in the BMW instructions for changing the door lock...


Important!

Carry out function check only with door open.

If door is closed

and the setting at the rotary striker lock is incorrect,

it may not be possible to open door any more

and the door trim panel must be destroyed.


Checking unlocking of rotary striker lock:

-
Close rotary striker lock (1) with a screwdriver,

-
lock car with car key,

-
unlock car with car key,

-
open rotary striker lock (1) with outside door handle,

-
if rotary striker lock (1) opens, then O.K.

-
If rotary striker lock (1) fails to open,

-
slacken adjustment screw (2) again,

-
Retighten adjusting screw (2),

-
carry out check again.


Fit sealing cap.
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Old 07-09-2007, 07:27 PM   #207
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Bruce, what I'm trying to figure out is why they say "door trim panel must be destroyed". I managed to get mine off without destroying it while the door was closed... do you think they are implying that there is a way to adjust that screw or fix it while the door is still closed IF you have access to the inside of the door?
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Old 07-09-2007, 09:05 PM   #208
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EDIT: Drilling has BEGUN.
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Old 07-16-2007, 10:47 AM   #209
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I did the driver's side Door Lock Actuator replacement yesterday.

Symptoms all on the driver's side door:
Cannot unlock with remote, but locking with remote works.
Cannot unlock with middle button, but locking with button and autolock after 5MPH works.

Basically I always had problems unlocking the car electronically, but it works with the manual key unlock.

I took some in-between pics during the replacement process. The Bentley was useful but it wasn't coupe/cabrio door specific. The differences are that the Bentley says to lower the window down to 6 inches above the base of the window moulding. But actually, you have to lower the window down only 6 inches to expose the bolt, and then lower it further to remove the rail.

Try this!

Or try this!
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Old 08-05-2007, 02:30 AM   #210
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Regin, nice write ups. How is the new actuator working for you? Symptoms gone?

BTW, if your gonna by 02 sensors, the cheapest ive seen them is $94 at http://www.olyonline.com/Bosch/Senso...ch_Sensors.htm

Also before you drop that much money, tap the grey wire and use a voltmeter to check their response during driving (assuming you are talking about the pre-cats that sit on the passengers side of the engine).
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Old 11-03-2007, 12:13 PM   #211
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lugnut2683 View Post
EDIT: Drilling has BEGUN.
i have the same problem like you
how u manage to open the door when it shut closed?
u have to drilled? or what kind of work?

i still dont know if it's actuator or the general module.
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Old 11-03-2007, 04:45 PM   #212
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Although I did this months ago, I'll post some photos soon. I had to cut open a hole in the b-pillar in order to access the striker hinge from the rear, and then drill out the rivets, replace the hinge, re-weld the b-pillar, and repaint the door jamb. Not an easy process unless you have the right tools. I got the door open, but the problem is not yet fixed... I will update you all soon.
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Old 11-28-2007, 06:35 PM   #213
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bullshit i just called them now and the rep said i will check in with the dealership and document it and he said its a chance its not part of the warranty -_______-
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Old 01-08-2008, 07:58 PM   #214
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after about 4 months of my doors working fine they have begun to act up again this only seems to happen when it gets really cold out and usually resolves its self after the car warms up but lately this is not the case. once the pass door is locked it stays locked the key, button in car, and door handle wont open it. the drivers door opens with the button in the car and the door and opens from the outside only with the key in door. im looking into getting new actuators. has anybody ever had this problem in an M3?? looking thru this thread i didnt see anyone post about an M3, if this is so does anyone know if the actuators from an M can fit into a 330ci?
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Old 01-20-2008, 11:34 AM   #215
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Does anyone know how to remove the glove box to replace the general module?
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Old 01-20-2008, 12:01 PM   #216
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Down load his pdf link, it shows vewry clear how to.


Quote:
Originally Posted by powastone View Post
Does anyone know how to remove the glove box to replace the general module?
Quote:
Originally Posted by aridaen View Post
Thinking about it more, my problem clears up when the front passenger door is opened and closed. This makes me think loose connection/door sensor problem rather than relays. Anyhow, I made a DIY when I removed my GM5 and have it attached. When I get the time, I will study the electrical schematics and trace the connections.
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Old 04-14-2008, 02:24 PM   #217
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Well my passenger side door lock has finally failed today. It was doing it occasionally before, but now it just completely stopped. It will not lock/unlock with the key or the central locking buttom, also the 5mph autolock doesnt work.

I just read though this entire 11 page thread, and i am shocked that there is still no clear solution. Anyone have any luck with this yet? ......
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Old 04-14-2008, 02:55 PM   #218
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Originally Posted by zuckuss00 View Post
Well my passenger side door lock has finally failed today. It was doing it occasionally before, but now it just completely stopped. It will not lock/unlock with the key or the central locking buttom, also the 5mph autolock doesnt work.

I just read though this entire 11 page thread, and i am shocked that there is still no clear solution. Anyone have any luck with this yet? ......

funny...I also did, read the entire thread. I've been having this problem for a very long time now! BMW stealerships & other BMW shops thinks I'm crazy, every time I take the car there....NO problem!! "It works fine Sir, there seems to be no problem with your doors" ....I think these doors are demon possessed!!
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Old 04-14-2008, 11:31 PM   #219
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My locks were going crazy and it was diagnosed as a GM V failure. No problems since I replaced it. FWIW, they would always lock with the fob but would unlock inconsistently.
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Old 04-23-2008, 10:07 PM   #220
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Is there any way to test if the General Module is possibly the problem? I'm thinking of removing it and then maybe using a Volt Meter to test those relays? If that's possible, what voltage should it be and where should I place the volt meter contacts? My intuition says it's the door actuator, but I just really really hate playing the parts guessing game.

Quick Symptoms (2001 300ci): When using the remote, I hear click, but no unlock of the driver's door. On 2nd click the passenger door unlocks, but driver stays locked (I have to unlock via keyhole). Both doors always lock via remote or manual keyhole. The door handles (outside and inside) always work and the central lock button will lock only the passenger door. My fuel door is always unlocked, no matter what.
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