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The E46 vert forum. Talk about dropping your E46 top here.

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Old 05-20-2015, 07:27 AM   #81
CarlLinnington
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Awesome thread all! Thanks for all the good info. Very helpful in my current troubleshooting process. Quick question for the group: I've got a top failure that neither I or my mechanic can figure out. I've got a fully automatic top (2002 330Ci) and if I push the 'top down' button, all I get is the blinking red light and nothing else. The code is "CVM Emergency Valve open circuit". Already replaced the Hydro unit, no help. Anyone have any idea what this is? I'm sure it's a broken wire somewhere, I just don't know WHERE ... the only Emergency Release I can think of is below the middle of the rear seat?!
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Old 05-20-2015, 11:04 AM   #82
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Originally Posted by CarlLinnington View Post
Awesome thread all! Thanks for all the good info. Very helpful in my current troubleshooting process. Quick question for the group: I've got a top failure that neither I or my mechanic can figure out. I've got a fully automatic top (2002 330Ci) and if I push the 'top down' button, all I get is the blinking red light and nothing else. The code is "CVM Emergency Valve open circuit". Already replaced the Hydro unit, no help. Anyone have any idea what this is? I'm sure it's a broken wire somewhere, I just don't know WHERE ... the only Emergency Release I can think of is below the middle of the rear seat?!
Sounds like something not closed good. Control the compartment absorber/gas shock:

https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showpos...2&postcount=14
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Old 05-20-2015, 11:15 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by CarlLinnington View Post
Awesome thread all! Thanks for all the good info. Very helpful in my current troubleshooting process. Quick question for the group: I've got a top failure that neither I or my mechanic can figure out. I've got a fully automatic top (2002 330Ci) and if I push the 'top down' button, all I get is the blinking red light and nothing else. The code is "CVM Emergency Valve open circuit". Already replaced the Hydro unit, no help. Anyone have any idea what this is? I'm sure it's a broken wire somewhere, I just don't know WHERE ... the only Emergency Release I can think of is below the middle of the rear seat?!
Look above you.



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Old 05-23-2015, 07:40 PM   #84
spdave
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Originally Posted by Landlorder View Post
mate, when you use that allen wrench to disengage top from windshield, you need to keep turning the living piss out of that wrench... , until you cant turn it any more, (it will spring back when you have reached this point). Also make sure the lid lock is actually unlocked under the seat (you can feel it when the allen wrench is loose after about half or 3/4 turn with wrench. After this then try and lift the front and back of soft top simultaneously and open top cover to pull everything back and into the top cover.
QFT...thank you Landlorder!! Low and behold a previous repair was found. Hopefully this will be a rework.
Update: two solder joints did not hold from previous repair. Wires were over soldered. Exact location that cvx5832 had.

Last edited by spdave; 05-23-2015 at 09:45 PM. Reason: Update
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Old 05-25-2015, 11:35 PM   #85
The Thomas J
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Originally Posted by cvx5832 View Post
Look above you.



A guy I met 2 weeks ago came by my house to install a new hot water heater. He has an e46 vert, and post's on this site. The first question he asked me was hey you have any top issues? My response was NO and don't jinx me. A week later my top get's stuck going up while at a traffic light.

Knowing what I know from reading these forums I knew exactly where to look. Just squeezing that part of the harness made enough contact for me to get the top up and down until I was able to really work on it.

So I repaired The issue today. Same spot. Brown wire was completely severed, blue wire was exposed. I had to run a jumper wire in as well to splice the brown wires together properly. Checked the wire harness for more cracks, checked the voltage, Wrapped all the wires up nice and tight and good to go.

Thanks to this thread.
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Old 06-14-2015, 04:37 PM   #86
CarlLinnington
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So, I checked the wiring harness at the typical spot at the bend (over driver's head) and found it cut open and re-taped, but all wires were completely intact ... which means one (or both) of my mechanics checked there previously as well. Also, both are telling me the hydro pump is bad... but a replacement (from PGA, Not a $1,200 new one) didn't solve the problem. Should I send pump off to Top Hydraulics for testing/re-build?
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Old 06-14-2015, 05:22 PM   #87
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Don't replace the pump unless you know it is bad. They are incredibly sturdy. Worst case have it rebuilt.

But I would focus on better diagnosis. The harness can break at both hinges. Fuses, sensors. You get the point. In my case it was a broken harness and the general module had to be reset

The cvm module is a very simple sequential controller. It proceeds to each step provide the relevant sensors are reading correctly. It stops when it gets a reading that doesn't square with its program.

This can occur because a sensor is not working, the wire to the sensor is compromised, or a component is not responding correctly - like the general module, to which the cvm delegates window position control.
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Old 06-14-2015, 06:43 PM   #88
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Originally Posted by CarlLinnington View Post
So, I checked the wiring harness at the typical spot at the bend (over driver's head) and found it cut open and re-taped, but all wires were completely intact ... which means one (or both) of my mechanics checked there previously as well. Also, both are telling me the hydro pump is bad... but a replacement (from PGA, Not a $1,200 new one) didn't solve the problem. Should I send pump off to Top Hydraulics for testing/re-build?
Get the pump rebuilt by Top Hydraulics, it'll be better than new for far less, and you can DIY in 20 mins.

What are your symptoms? I would diagnose as much as possible before throwing parts at it. Regardless, having the pump rebuilt doesn't hurt, it'll eventually fail and need to be rebuilt anyways.
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Old 06-14-2015, 07:20 PM   #89
CarlLinnington
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Symptoms are "CVM EMERGENCY RELEASE OPEN CIRCUIT" code and top doesn't move at all....
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Old 07-05-2015, 05:08 PM   #90
STEENYWEENY
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Thanks for all the tips. I will be starting this project tomorrow after probably a year of my top not working. Just had a couple questions if someone wouldn't mind answering: Can the car be on while checking/soldering the wires? Also, can the bundle of wires be accessed with the top closed at all? I know most put the top 1/2 way up, but I would really prefer not to have to do this manually; Unfortunately, the top currently will now only raise <1 inch. Thanks!
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Old 07-05-2015, 08:19 PM   #91
klixtokw
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Originally Posted by djsilver View Post
I just finished repairing a broken wiring harness on my wife's car with help from info found here and other places and would like to put the resources I found in one thread. The mods can even sticky this one if they like.

The BMW TIS/ETK system can be found various places on the web. It will have instructions on how to work on the top and part numbers if needed. Here's just one place I used;
http://spaghetticoder.org/bmw/

Here's the BMW wiring diagram system; (better than the one above)
http://www.bmw-planet.com/diagrams/release/en/index.htm

I've attached a pdf of the CVM pinout diagram, with notes. I've listed the wire colors for the connection to the convertible top harness and noted the device numbers from the top manual where possible.

Here's my advice if the top is not working. Take it to someone that can read the codes, even if you plan on doing the work yourself. Pay the diagnostic fee and be happy. Otherwise you're completely in the dark.

Now for the real work!

1. All the sensors (except for the storage compartment floor/S239) are Hall-effect sensors and will have some resistance on them regardless of position. They have no moving parts and have a low failure rate, so if the software diagnosis is a bad sensor/valve/motor, it's very likely there's a broken wire.

2. Now you or your mechanic will have to remove the back seat and rear left passenger armrest and trim panel to access the CVM. For the next check, unplug the top harness (white connector) from the CVM and check for resistance on matching pairs according to the diagram. Start with the one that was noted bad in the software diagnosis. All the sensors and solenoid valves on this harness should have some resistance on them.

3. If any of them show an open circuit it's time to get serious, as the next step requres you to start taking stuff apart. The next step is to disconnect the questionable device from the harness and test it, and if it's bad, replace it.

4. If the device tested is not open circuit that means a wire is broken in the harness. You'll have to get some extra wire and check continuity on both wires to the pair in question to determine which one is broken. Once you find it, it's up to you if you want to split the harness and look for it. I bought some 18ga black automotive wire and ran a jumper along the length of the harness from the top latch sensor all the way to the CVM connector.

Notes;
1. My experience was with the top harness but similar techniques can be used on the other harnesses connected to the CVM.
2. Remember that the windows and storage compartment cover are controlled by the general module, so when you push the up or down button, control is handed back and forth between the GM and the CVM twice per cycle.
3. Don't let someone sell you new top latches just because there's cracks in the plastic jack-screws. The plastic is cast onto the end of a metal bar. The metal bar has two holes drilled through it so the plastic is cast through the holes and it won't fall off!

If you have or find more tools for troubleshooting the convertible top feel free to add it here. If you find mistakes in my information please point it out.

Thanks,
DJ
Great post thanks! Do you have an idea of where the codes appear. I have a problem lowering my top but do not get any light except the down switch will blink if I let go of it. I was told that if you have no code appear the electronic unit the dealer uses will not find the problem or be able to diagnose.
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Old 07-05-2015, 09:26 PM   #92
klixtokw
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Originally Posted by taylor192 View Post
Get the pump rebuilt by Top Hydraulics, it'll be better than new for far less, and you can DIY in 20 mins.

What are your symptoms? I would diagnose as much as possible before throwing parts at it. Regardless, having the pump rebuilt doesn't hurt, it'll eventually fail and need to be rebuilt anyways.
Taylor do you have or have seen a DIY that takes through the steps of replacing the Hdro? How is it held in place? The one I say was held in place by the foam hat in its top. Doesn't sound right. Do you know if its overfilled what are the consequences or symptoms?
I had mine changed last year by an indy shop and had to return 3 times to correct the top operation because it would stop going down. He kept putting fluid but could not find any leaks. Once a gain I'm getting the top to stop on the down process and I believe this guy overfilled the hydro.
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Old 07-05-2015, 09:41 PM   #93
klixtokw
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Originally Posted by Archbid View Post
Don't replace the pump unless you know it is bad. They are incredibly sturdy. Worst case have it rebuilt.

But I would focus on better diagnosis. The harness can break at both hinges. Fuses, sensors. You get the point. In my case it was a broken harness and the general module had to be reset

The cvm module is a very simple sequential controller. It proceeds to each step provide the relevant sensors are reading correctly. It stops when it gets a reading that doesn't square with its program.

This can occur because a sensor is not working, the wire to the sensor is compromised, or a component is not responding correctly - like the general module, to which the cvm delegates window position control.
Any idea where I could get that diagnosing done properly? I took it to an indy shop last year but they are more into the mechanics of a car. This guy has been working on BMW's 30 yrs and is highly rated but in tops he is wek and does not have the proper diagnosing equipment. Would a top replacement shop know about the mechanical part of the top as well?
Any info would be appreciated.
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Old 07-05-2015, 10:03 PM   #94
klixtokw
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Originally Posted by jbs330ci View Post
Another new member saved by this forum.

My convertible top stopped part way down. Using the owner's manual I was able to manually close it and get home. The top was totally inoperable - just flashing red lights. After doing some searching, I decided to order the Bavarian Technic's code reader. It worked great except for one problem, the CVM fault code was 165 - undefined error Now what???? Did a google search and found this thread. Went out and checked continuity of the sensors and discovered 2 sensors were disconnected. Cut into the wire harness as noted in the previous post and found 2 broken wires. 2 pieces of wire and some solder fixed the problem.

Thanks for saving me at least $1K at the local dealer.
Did you have a check engine light? You mention you only had a blinking red light. How did you know there was a fault to be read?
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Old 07-06-2015, 01:58 AM   #95
taylor192
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Originally Posted by klixtokw View Post
Taylor do you have or have seen a DIY that takes through the steps of replacing the Hdro? How is it held in place? The one I say was held in place by the foam hat in its top. Doesn't sound right.
If I have time this week I'll write one up. It's easy, most of the steps are covered in the storage lid hydraulic cylinder DIY.

The pump is held in by the insulation, and the insulation is held in by a single nut. Disconnect the lines, and the one electrical connection, the pump is free.

I just had mine changed, 20 mins, thanks to Klaus and his team!
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Old 07-06-2015, 10:58 AM   #96
klixtokw
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Originally Posted by taylor192 View Post
If I have time this week I'll write one up. It's easy, most of the steps are covered in the storage lid hydraulic cylinder DIY.

The pump is held in by the insulation, and the insulation is held in by a single nut. Disconnect the lines, and the one electrical connection, the pump is free.

I just had mine changed, 20 mins, thanks to Klaus and his team!
But the insulation is just foam! How can it hold the hydro and does it need to hold it vertically? You say disconnect the lines? where are they and how many connect to it. Is there a pic that shows this connection? Does Klaus have a DYI. If you do one it would surely be very helpful. What are the consequences if its overfilled by 1/2 inch above max mark?
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Old 07-06-2015, 01:36 PM   #97
taylor192
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Originally Posted by klixtokw View Post
But the insulation is just foam! How can it hold the hydro and does it need to hold it vertically? You say disconnect the lines? where are they and how many connect to it. Is there a pic that shows this connection? Does Klaus have a DYI. If you do one it would surely be very helpful. What are the consequences if its overfilled by 1/2 inch above max mark?
Holy crap dude, just remove the carpet and look for yourself rather than replying to multiple threads here. You're over thinking it, and your multiple posts will make it hard for the next person that searches to find any good info.

FFS

I wish I was a mod, I'd delete a ton of your duplicate posts.
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Old 07-06-2015, 03:29 PM   #98
klixtokw
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Originally Posted by taylor192 View Post
Holy crap dude, just remove the carpet and look for yourself rather than replying to multiple threads here. You're over thinking it, and your multiple posts will make it hard for the next person that searches to find any good info.

FFS

I wish I was a mod, I'd delete a ton of your duplicate posts.
Sorry Dude. Don't be so harsh! I'm new on this forum and don't know all the tricks so I thought that asking to any post related to your problem was the way to go. If not how do you get answer from a specific person like yourself?

Anyway I'm also not a DIY but have been forced to do it because of the economics involved.

I really like your postings. You seem to have a PHD in convertible tops among other things and have very clear postings with pictures and explanations. I hope you continue to share your knowledge. If you want I can delete some of the postings.
Best Regards
BTW where is the best place on earth?
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Old 07-06-2015, 03:53 PM   #99
taylor192
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Sorry Dude. Don't be so harsh! I'm new on this forum and don't know all the tricks so I thought that asking to any post related to your problem was the way to go. If not how do you get answer from a specific person like yourself?
Sorry, I'm going to be harsh.

You had gotten my attention, now you have my scorn. I have replied to several of your posts, pointed you to threads with instructions and given you advice to try. You haven't seem to done any of it. Go try by removing some trunk panels or hire a shop.

I posted a Pump DIY reusing steps from the Storage Lid Cylinders DIY.
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Old 07-06-2015, 04:57 PM   #100
STEENYWEENY
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Multimeter use

How exactly do you use the multimeter to check for continuity? All of the resources I can find only show how to do so using both ends of the wire. As stated above, once you have the white connector unplugged, how do you use that to check for continuity for the rest of the wires? Do you touch the white wire to each of the others and place both probes onto it?

Quote:
Originally Posted by djsilver View Post
2. Now you or your mechanic will have to remove the back seat and rear left passenger armrest and trim panel to access the CVM. For the next check, unplug the top harness (white connector) from the CVM and check for resistance on matching pairs according to the diagram. Start with the one that was noted bad in the software diagnosis. All the sensors and solenoid valves on this harness should have some resistance on them.

3. If any of them show an open circuit it's time to get serious, as the next step requres you to start taking stuff apart. The next step is to disconnect the questionable device from the harness and test it, and if it's bad, replace it.

4. If the device tested is not open circuit that means a wire is broken in the harness. You'll have to get some extra wire and check continuity on both wires to the pair in question to determine which one is broken. Once you find it, it's up to you if you want to split the harness and look for it. I bought some 18ga black automotive wire and ran a jumper along the length of the harness from the top latch sensor all the way to the CVM connector.


Thanks,
DJ
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