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The Showroom
This is the place to show off your BMW to other members of the community. Post pictures and videos of your car and the modifications you have done to it. If you need a picture of something on a coupe, sedan, convertible or touring you will probably find it here!

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Old 03-27-2020, 07:28 PM   #21
ben99
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Nice! Build looks amazing! Keep us posted on the futur upgrades
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Old 03-28-2020, 02:48 PM   #22
ZHPizza
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Whew. It took me 4 days, but I've finally read through the entire thread from the start! Wonderful journey you've had with this car and I love all of the creative solutions you have come up with for problems. Thank you very much for sharing!

The one thing that I don't see, and think you would really benefit from, is joining the rear subframe mounts to the frame rails of the car. I know you installed that safety devices rear tower brace, but afaik it only mounts to the trunk floor, which is completely separated from the RACP that the subframe mounts anchor to.

If you haven't yet, I'd definitely recommend looking at the Vincebar and SME solutions for the RACP issue. I bet you could come up with another creative solution and tie it into your existing bracing.

Some good info here - let me know if you'd like more!

https://forums.*********.co.uk/threa...ptions.202102/

Edit: I'm guessing you've also looked into adding a baffle in the oil pan since you're tracking oil pressure drops in turns. Adding a baffle completely eliminated some starvation issues that I was having during autocross events.
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Old 03-31-2020, 07:25 AM   #23
tombate911
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZHPizza View Post
Whew. It took me 4 days, but I've finally read through the entire thread from the start! Wonderful journey you've had with this car and I love all of the creative solutions you have come up with for problems. Thank you very much for sharing!

The one thing that I don't see, and think you would really benefit from, is joining the rear subframe mounts to the frame rails of the car. I know you installed that safety devices rear tower brace, but afaik it only mounts to the trunk floor, which is completely separated from the RACP that the subframe mounts anchor to.

If you haven't yet, I'd definitely recommend looking at the Vincebar and SME solutions for the RACP issue. I bet you could come up with another creative solution and tie it into your existing bracing.

Some good info here - let me know if you'd like more!

https://forums.*********.co.uk/threa...ptions.202102/

Edit: I'm guessing you've also looked into adding a baffle in the oil pan since you're tracking oil pressure drops in turns. Adding a baffle completely eliminated some starvation issues that I was having during autocross events.
Glad you enjoyed the thread so far. will be a lot more to come.

Regarding the rear floor, at the time I did it was the first one we'd done so just plated the underside of the floor, changing the diff bushes so they sit direction against the boot floor rather than pivoting on the standard studs has reduced a lot of force going into the floor too. Since then a few friends have gone in through the top and tied the diff mounts into the cage in the rear. This maybe something I look at in the future but considering I only repainted the car this summer I'm going to shelf the idea for a little while.
Yeah i run the oil just over top of max on the dip stick and have the oil cooler on there too so slightly raised capacity but under braking the oil pressure does drop down to 8-10psi. I am adding the oil pressure into the logger now with a number of other changes so i can get a better idea of what is going on, seems to be reasonable in the corners at the moment but under braking there is a drop.
I know someone who has just baffled his sump, will let him test it and then if it works carry out the same adjustment when I do an engine rebuild later in the year.

Thanks!
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Old 04-06-2020, 09:37 AM   #24
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Update

So at the moment I'm working from home and have two weeks off as well so plenty of time to do a few little jobs and pass some time too.

First job on the list was to try and tidy up the wheels, they were a mess from the last track day in March, mainly the rears where I was running the cheap brembo pads, between each of the spokes and all the the inner dish of the wheel was covered in metal particles from the brake pads.




My usual wheel cleaner wasn't shifting it so invested in some different wheel cleaner as well as from fall out remover.



Spent Saturday afternoon cleaning the wheels, it took a good two hours of soaking, scrubbing and jet washing to get the wheels back to looking like new again, I then gave them a polished and resealed them ready for when they go back on again, hopefully being able to change the pads with the new proportioning valve will cut down on this as the RC6's aren't too heavy on dust and wear



Gave the wet wheels the same treatment.


Took the steering wheel off to give it a good scrub and a tidy up, It has started to fade in the sun so may look at getting some dye to bring it back to black


While the car was on axle stands for the weekend sorting out the wheels it was a perfect chance to do a few more little jobs.
Swapped the rear brembo pads out for the spare set of RC5's. No fun going through half a set of brembos on a track day and the dust from the cheap pads is terrible. Back to the RC5's now I've got the Tilton proportioning valve in


Dropped the diff oil out of the diff, this was the freshly built diff with the 3.73 final drive in. Wanted to check the oil to give an indication everything was ok.


However the main reason for dropping the diff oil was so that I could fit a temperature sensor, this has been a job that i've wanted to do for ages, I know a few people running diff cooling set ups on E36/E46 and a conversion with company that builds race cars especially E46's said they had experienced high diff temps not only with plated diffs but with helical diffs. Only way to find out is to monitor the diff temp myself.
Diff temperature sensor fitted and the wiring ran up along the diff cradle and into the brake line holders on the underside of the boot floor before entering the cabin with the brake lines.


Did a little more wiring, one wire for the rear diff temp sensor above, another for an additional fuel pressure sensor for the swirl pot so I can keep an eye on what that's doing. Another reason for this Is the current fuel system is running about 64psi at the rail which is about 10psi too high. The standard ECU copes with it fine with the fuel trims and the AFR's are solid on the dyno but it's something i'm looking into at the moment... Pressure in the swirl pot is 10PSI so there's no problem there so will swap the fuel pressure regulator this week and see how it goes from there.
Ended up swapping the fuel rail from a 328 fuel rail to the M50 fuel rail as the regulator from the M50 was a slightly different diameter and with the old seals it wouldn't seal correctly. But with the M50 rail on there 50psi. Going to replace the regulator in the 328 rail as that is pointing towards the higher fuel pressure.



Gave the interior a good clean, blowing out any dust with the compressor and giving it a hoover and wipe down


Hasn't moved off the drive since it was washed after the last track day but I thought it wouldn't harm to be washed again this weekend


Gave the car a coat of wax to try and keep it clean between washes, also moved the splitter back a little and to the side to make sure it was central with the car



That is pretty much it now until it goes out in the future, just need to swap the fuel pressure reg over one evening and test the rail pressure


Last job this week has been to adjust the overlay for the Data logger. Added in some more data fields in the bottom right corner. Merged the dial for the RPM to be part of the speedometer and created front and rear brake pressure bars to be the same as the throttle. Not all the data will be visible on video edits but it's there to be shown If i decide to leave them in.


Last edited by tombate911; 04-06-2020 at 01:06 PM.
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Old 04-06-2020, 01:02 PM   #25
ZHPizza
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Originally Posted by tombate911 View Post
I know a few people running diff cooling set ups on E36/E46 and a conversion with company that builds race cars especially E46's said they had experienced high diff temps not only with plated diffs but with helical diffs.
Whoa I did not know that helical lsd's got hot too. Makes me feel better about leaving the finned cover on the Z4 diff that I am installing.

Can't wait to see your results and what custom cooling setup you come up with!

"So I picked up some thin aluminum sheet, cut some intricate fins to match the profile of the diff, and started welding them to the cover..."
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Old 04-07-2020, 09:14 PM   #26
T14
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Great build up, Inspiring, I am looking to build an e46 to track/rally and time attack but I am looking at building a sedan. Sedans are actually naturally stiffer than the coupes. I like the look of the sedan as well.
Good Job.
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Old 04-07-2020, 11:25 PM   #27
ZHPizza
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Great build up, Inspiring, I am looking to build an e46 to track/rally and time attack but I am looking at building a sedan. Sedans are actually naturally stiffer than the coupes. I like the look of the sedan as well.

Good Job.
Sedan with a solid rear seat (non-folding) is significantly stiffer than any other e46 model and definitely the best chassis for a track car
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Old 04-08-2020, 08:09 AM   #28
T14
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Sedan with a solid rear seat (non-folding) is significantly stiffer than any other e46 model and definitely the best chassis for a track car
Yes I have discovered this, I even found some numbers.

I initially got them from a forum, cant remember exactly where, but I believe I saw them here as well

BMW E46 Sedan (w/o folding seats) 18,000 Nm/deg
BMW E46 Sedan (w/folding seats) 13,000 Nm/deg
BMW E46 Coupe (w/folding seats) 12,500 Nm/deg
Sport wagon (w/folding seats) 14000 Nm/deg
Convertible 10,500 Nm/deg



This is a nice build writeup, I want to do the same except I want to build a M52B30

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Old 04-10-2020, 02:15 PM   #29
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Exceptional, straight to the point build. Awesome work, truly.
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Old 04-11-2020, 06:12 AM   #30
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For your skills and work, one word: respect
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Old 05-22-2020, 04:29 PM   #31
tombate911
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Lock down update. Only small things but I thought it was a good chance to sit down on a Friday evening and pass some time writing down a few things i've found and been messing with along the way.

Carrying on from the last update were I was adding in additional sensors, one of the sensors I added in was a pressure sensor into the top of the swirl pot. the idea behind this was to tell me a little more about what was going on in the system. I started this train of thought because ever since I swapped the fuel system to a pot, high pressure pump and return style rail i've had a fuel pressure around 60-65psi with and without vacuum, never really had an issue with it, car ran fine on the dyno with the standard ECU. I thought there might have been some back pressure in the pot potentially but this sensor has told me there is around 8-10psi in the swirl pot which is perfect for feeding the pump for the rail.
Popped out the regulator in the rail for spare i had knocking around and perfect 51psi. Really strange, ordered a new one to replace it with as the history of the spare was unknown. Got to the bottom of that mystery eventually.



With the car going no where soon with the lock down but with a lot of messing with it, the odd start and having the ignition on from time to time i thought it was a good idea to get a trickle charger for it. Nice and simple wiring onto the battery with a plug on it, really easy to get the car on charge now, only takes a minute to plug it into the car.



A week or two into the lock down I found myself stuck at home, nothing to do and facing a couple of weeks off work so decided to play with an idea i've had for a long time but never really started it because I knew it was going to be quite time consuming.
I've already got the Arduino data logger on the exhaust tunnel of the car which collected data from the CANBUS, a handful of analogue sensors as well as GPS data and writes it to an SD card. This is great for looking at information afterwards but real time live data I only really have the coolant temp on the dash and the oil temp gauge which only gives me a rough idea and an alarm set at 120 degrees.

Ordered a couple of bits of Amazon to kick off the ball rolling, starting off with another Arduino Mega and a 3.5" colour and touch screen LCD. Only a cheap one to get me going, can always develop and spend more in the future if it works.


I already had the data available on the logger Arduino so i started off making a couple of screen to display the data on.

Temps which would be nice to be able to see while driving.


Pressures


Another way of viewing oil and fuel pressure min and max over a session out on track


Added a basic alarm functionality to each of the temps for the Oil, Coolant and Diff. The beauty of making this myself is I can make it do what ever I want. At the moment a basic alarm with a flashing red ! mark.


Spent a bit more time developing the casing and the mount for it to bolt into a hole in the exhaust tunnel, mounted it in a black plastic case and powered it through a USB cable so it's nice and tidy.


The beauty of it is that it's connected to the CANBUS of the car which enables it to receive all the data from the ECU but I have modified the code on the logger to broadcast the analogue sensor values that it's reading onto the cars CANBUS so it can be read by the screen and displayed.

Touching the screen enables you to cycle around the 3 different screens of data. Automatically comes on with the ignition


This will probably be something I continue to develop further in the future with more sensors, data, bigger screens with gauges, I've got a few ideas for using this screen more but that's not too difficult to develop now I've got the basic functionality.


Another large parcel turned up in the post for me this afternoon too, another M54B30 complete engine which i'm going to be stripping down and using as a donor for the new engine build, this enables me to get on with the build while still having the car in one piece and being able to use it should I have the chance to get out on track.




Couldn't help getting it on an engine stand this evening and popping off the cam cover for a look inside checking the part numbers on the cams and the block Will have some more photographs of this as I strip it open this week.
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