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E46 Convertible
The E46 vert forum. Talk about dropping your E46 top here.

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Old 05-28-2017, 11:33 AM   #81
04black330
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I just repaired my top using ebay parts from ASI http://www.ebay.com/itm/132069218002. Both latches fixed for under $100, and a warranty to boot. I'll keep my old stuff for spares if these don't hold out.

[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]

Notice in the next photo the steel block that will have to be removed from the original for the driver's side latch. This is so the sensor, inductive prox most likely, can see the location. I used a Dremel to notch the old piece for removal, and I had to use the Dremel to remove some material from the bottom of the cavity in the new piece to allow the block to seat fully. You can always glue this in position if you get too crazy with the Dremel. If you don't have a Dremel, borrow your Dad's; if he doesn't have one - buy him one for Father's day. After all, you are driving a BMW, you can afford it. :-)

[IMG][/IMG]

Quote:
im sick of the plastic latches, i will try to convince my engineer friend to 3d draw this thing and fabric a fully metallic latch. anyone interested
I don't recommend this, there should be a weak point in your linkage in case something binds, plus you would never accomplish that for the price of the bolt repair or the ebay parts I've mentioned._nr_
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Old 07-03-2017, 09:30 AM   #82
brysBeemer
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I just removed my latch motor cover and actually heard plastic pieces hitting the cover as I was removing it. Well, just as I thought, both plastic latches are cracked beyond repair. I noticed you can get these on Ebay for $100. Has anyone had any luck with these? I'm concerned about the quality. Also, 04black330 indicated that there may be metallic latches available. Any update on this? Thanks.
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Old 07-03-2017, 10:06 AM   #83
gigu
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there are two types of aftermarket latches, cheap ones with silver latches and better ones with gold/bronze latches. you can but latched for the opel astra g convertible on ebay. they are the best. search for 'opel astra cabrio verschluss' on ebay
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Old 07-03-2017, 01:45 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gigu View Post
there are two types of aftermarket latches, cheap ones with silver latches and better ones with gold/bronze latches. you can but latched for the opel astra g convertible on ebay. they are the best. search for 'opel astra cabrio verschluss' on ebay
Thank you for the information!
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Old 07-03-2017, 09:30 PM   #85
04black330
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Originally Posted by brysBeemer View Post
I noticed you can get these on Ebay for $100. Has anyone had any luck with these? I'm concerned about the quality.
For what it's worth, I've had them in for about a month with no problems. I'm pretty sure they'll last the remaining life of the car.

Quote:
Also, 04black330 indicated that there may be metallic latches available. Any update on this? Thanks.
I didn't indicate there are metal ones available; I suggested another poster not waste their time getting replacements made from metal.

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there are two types of aftermarket latches, cheap ones with silver latches and better ones with gold/bronze latches. you can but latched for the opel astra g convertible on ebay. they are the best. search for 'opel astra cabrio verschluss' on ebay
The color of the steel is the coating, most likely zinc, and doesn't mean anything except the particular color the manufacturer used at the time - it's still zinc. The metal part functions as a cam when installed and is not a problem structurally; it is the threaded plastic that cracks with age and falls apart.

I don't doubt that these parts are the same whether they are sold as Opel, BMW, or any other auto maker. There are several used ones for sale on Ebay, I do not recommend you buy these; the aging plastic will fail. Gold, silver, Opel, BMW - as long as you buy new with warranty for $100 you should be fine.
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Old 07-03-2017, 09:35 PM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 04black330 View Post
For what it's worth, I've had them in for about a month with no problems. I'm pretty sure they'll last the remaining life of the car.



I didn't indicate there are metal ones available; I suggested another poster not waste their time getting replacements made from metal.



The color of the steel is the coating, most likely zinc, and doesn't mean anything except the particular color the manufacturer used at the time - it's still zinc. The metal part functions as a cam when installed and is not a problem structurally; it is the threaded plastic that cracks with age and falls apart.

I don't doubt that these parts are the same whether they are sold as Opel, BMW, or any other auto maker. There are several used ones for sale on Ebay, I do not recommend you buy these; the aging plastic will fail. Gold, silver, Opel, BMW - as long as you buy new with warranty for $100 you should be fine.
Thanks for the info!
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Old 07-04-2017, 12:22 AM   #87
brysBeemer
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04black330, once you have the cover off, how do you actually replace the latch. Do you have to remove the entire locking assembly or can you just remove the broken plastic piece with the metal bar? If you have to remove the entire assembly, are there any step by step instructions that cover the removal of this unit? Also, how do you remove the flexible drive cable from the motor? Thanks.
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Old 07-04-2017, 09:54 AM   #88
04black330
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Originally Posted by brysBeemer View Post
04black330, once you have the cover off, how do you actually replace the latch. Do you have to remove the entire locking assembly or can you just remove the broken plastic piece with the metal bar? If you have to remove the entire assembly, are there any step by step instructions that cover the removal of this unit? Also, how do you remove the flexible drive cable from the motor? Thanks.
Go to the first page of this thread. The linkage can stay attached, but the screw mechanism assembly needs to come off. The drive cable slides on and off: use a screwdriver to pry it off (gently).
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Old 07-04-2017, 03:29 PM   #89
taylor192
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Updated the first post with a link to the eBay repair kit.
Did someone document how to install the eBay repair kit? I remember seeing it, if someone posts the link I'll add that too.
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Old 07-04-2017, 05:41 PM   #90
brysBeemer
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If there are instructions on how to install the repair kit, please post the link. I am unable to view the photos on the first page of this post so any additional information on how to install this would be a big help. Thanks!

Last edited by brysBeemer; 07-04-2017 at 09:35 PM.
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Old 07-05-2017, 08:46 PM   #91
04black330
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I followed the directions on the first post and skipped the part about drilling and installing screws. Someone may have to reach out to the original poster to get their photos.
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Old 07-09-2017, 07:16 PM   #92
brysBeemer
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I made a quick Youtube video on how to remove the locking latch mechanism. I still have the latch out of the car so let me know if anyone else wants me to post another video with more detail.

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Old 07-12-2017, 01:47 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deus_x View Post
The writeup on the first page has broken links for all the images... anyone know of another thread like this? OR, is OP willing to correct the image links?
https://forum.e46fanatics.com/showthread.php?t=1131130

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Old 07-12-2017, 07:38 PM   #94
deus_x
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Anybody know where to buy the female - female cables that run from the latch motor to the latch mechanism? One of mine is frayed and broken, and I'd rather not buy the whole assembly.
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Old 07-13-2017, 04:11 PM   #95
taylor192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deus_x View Post
Anybody know where to buy the female - female cables that run from the latch motor to the latch mechanism? One of mine is frayed and broken, and I'd rather not buy the whole assembly.
Check RealOem.com if the PN is the same for both sides:
https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/54347042480/
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Old 07-23-2017, 09:07 PM   #96
dsuppappola
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It's unfortunate that the photos are not available.

I'm having trouble getting the cover off per steps 6 and 7:

"Step 6: Pull the cover off. If it won't pull off easily, move onto the next step. My cover was glued on (my car has had 3 soft top repairs due to vandalism).

Step 7: Detach the headliner from the cover. There are 6 T20 screws. Loosen the outside screws, remove the inner 4, then lift the metal bar out. The outside screws attach to plastic guides that help install the metal bar that holds up the headliner."

I've removed all the front and side fasteners, but it seems like I would need to remove the fasteners on the the metal bar that is attached to the headliner, but the headliner is wrapped around the bar and covers the screws?
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Old 07-23-2017, 10:34 PM   #97
brysBeemer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsuppappola View Post
It's unfortunate that the photos are not available.

I'm having trouble getting the cover off per steps 6 and 7:

"Step 6: Pull the cover off. If it won't pull off easily, move onto the next step. My cover was glued on (my car has had 3 soft top repairs due to vandalism).

Step 7: Detach the headliner from the cover. There are 6 T20 screws. Loosen the outside screws, remove the inner 4, then lift the metal bar out. The outside screws attach to plastic guides that help install the metal bar that holds up the headliner."

I've removed all the front and side fasteners, but it seems like I would need to remove the fasteners on the the metal bar that is attached to the headliner, but the headliner is wrapped around the bar and covers the screws?
I'm not sure how they would be able to tighten the screws if the headliner is wrapped all the way around the metal bar and covers the screws. You should be able to access the screw heads between the top and headliner. See my Youtube video above. If you reach between the top and headliner and there is fabric that covers the head of the screw, you may have to push the torx driver into, or through, the material and to have it engage the screw head. Those screws need to be loosened to get the cover off.

Last edited by brysBeemer; 07-23-2017 at 11:28 PM.
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Old 07-23-2017, 11:16 PM   #98
taylor192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dsuppappola View Post
It's unfortunate that the photos are not available.

I'm having trouble getting the cover off per steps 6 and 7:

"Step 6: Pull the cover off. If it won't pull off easily, move onto the next step. My cover was glued on (my car has had 3 soft top repairs due to vandalism).

Step 7: Detach the headliner from the cover. There are 6 T20 screws. Loosen the outside screws, remove the inner 4, then lift the metal bar out. The outside screws attach to plastic guides that help install the metal bar that holds up the headliner."

I've removed all the front and side fasteners, but it seems like I would need to remove the fasteners on the the metal bar that is attached to the headliner, but the headliner is wrapped around the bar and covers the screws?
Reach under the headliner from the side. The screws don't need to be removed, the cover has slots for the screws, not holes.

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Old 07-25-2017, 06:11 PM   #99
dsuppappola
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Taylor92,

Thank you much for the tip on accessing the cross bar screws under the headliner.

I have the locking latch cover off and I see I have a locking latch with the plastic screw drive block cracked.

Now to decide if I want to attempt to repair this or buy a new one on eBay? I'm a bit concerned on the quality and durability of the replacement parts on eBay? Anybody have any experience with these and any recommended sources?
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Old 07-26-2017, 01:41 AM   #100
taylor192
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Originally Posted by dsuppappola View Post
Taylor92,

Thank you much for the tip on accessing the cross bar screws under the headliner.

I have the locking latch cover off and I see I have a locking latch with the plastic screw drive block cracked.

Now to decide if I want to attempt to repair this or buy a new one on eBay? I'm a bit concerned on the quality and durability of the replacement parts on eBay? Anybody have any experience with these and any recommended sources?
You're welcome!

Apply the reinforcements to the eBay parts for the best fix. The bolts and epoxy are so cheap and easy you might as well reinforce the new parts.

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