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Old 03-29-2020, 01:30 PM   #1
mega_stihl
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Wtf is this piece?

So since I recently removed my RTAB's, I decided to work on a friend's M3 who only just complained about his powerflex RTAB's that started to squeak like crazy.

I just took them apart, and they were completely dry, and even the inside of the RTA was rusted. No wonder they squeaked like crazy. But when I wanted to put it back together, I found this ring (see picture, on the right) on the floor, underneath the RTA. what on earth is it for?!
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Old 03-29-2020, 04:24 PM   #2
BaliDawg
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Looks like the CV Joint Lock Ring.
https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...ng-33131214961
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Old 03-29-2020, 10:32 PM   #3
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thanks for the reply. Funny enough I didn't touch the CV joint, but the former mechanic who worked on the car did. Should I be concerned about this?

edit: if this is indeed a CV lock ring, I would say it's the old one, as both CV joints are new, and that this old piece might have felt down at the training arm underneath the spring or something like this, which came out now as I loosened the upper trailing arm. So this might explain some things. It looks larger than a CV lock ring, but then again, I'm used to non-M parts.

Very much thanks!

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Old 03-30-2020, 12:18 PM   #4
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It's too large in diameter and light in gauge for the CV lock ring.

Maybe a clamp ring from the lower outside of a ball joint boot?

Looks more Datsun than BMW to me, but I haven't gotten too up- close and personal with rear suspension joints yet.

t
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Old 03-30-2020, 01:15 PM   #5
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donít know what that ring is for sorry.

oh and peopleís poly bushings squeaking after time.... never.
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Old 03-30-2020, 01:29 PM   #6
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I guess shouldn't worry about that ring. It simply cannot be from something I unbolted, and is probably an old leftover of the previous mechanic who worked on it. Indeed it is was too large to be a ring for a CV joint.

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don't know what that ring is for sorry.

oh and people's poly bushings squeaking after time.... never.
zip it!

It is a fact that they were not properly installed/lubed. There was close to no lube left on the inside, causing the poly parts to turn slightly as the axle running through the poly couldn't freely turn anymore. And the inside of the RTA, so where the poly contacts the steel RTA, was rusted like a mofo. I mean come on, is it that big of a deal to clean it with a vile or steel brush before install?

Also: look at the condition of the bushing. I mean: dafuq?
Liberally lubed inside and ouside and put it back together. Moves smoothly now. Before it was as rough as if you were trying to move the original OEM rubber RTAB
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Old 03-30-2020, 01:43 PM   #7
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Interesting. And to the lack of initial install lube - the whole point of those cross hatchings you see is to retain grease in that inner diameter to properly lube it.
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Old 03-30-2020, 02:10 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mega_stihl View Post
It is a fact that they were not properly installed/lubed. There was close to no lube left on the inside, causing the poly parts to turn slightly as the axle running through the poly couldn't freely turn anymore. And the inside of the RTA, so where the poly contacts the steel RTA, was rusted like a mofo. I mean come on, is it that big of a deal to clean it with a vile or steel brush before install?
i didnít do the install on this so canít say it was done correctly or incorrectly. but itís obvious it did have lube and as you said, ďclose to no lube leftĒ. which is why poly bushings need maintaining, none state they wonít. this isnít a bmw thing itís poly used on all cars for decades that need this. these arenít sealed.
exposed metal and moisture will cause rust. once lube is shed itíll rust.

But you look like your got it handled for now. you want a lube that clings. I used copper based lube last time and have been happy.
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Old 03-30-2020, 02:26 PM   #9
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i didn't do the install on this so can't say it was done correctly or incorrectly. but it's obvious it did have lube and as you said, "close to no lube left". which is why poly bushings need maintaining, none state they won't. this isn't a bmw thing it's poly used on all cars for decades that need this. these aren't sealed.
exposed metal and moisture will cause rust. once lube is shed it'll rust.

But you look like your got it handled for now. you want a lube that clings. I used copper based lube last time and have been happy.
I have read a lot debate on lithium grease vs copper based grease. So I took it to the test. One side with copper grease, the other with lithium. Lets see which one will last the longest

I must say I had 2 years and 20k miles with powerflex FCAB, no squeaks when lubed properly (with the exception of one that went bad, and therefore also didn't seat properly and took some water where the grease is supposed to sit, but that's a different story). But then again, 2 years is nothing ...

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Old 03-30-2020, 05:48 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by mega_stihl View Post
I have read a lot debate on lithium grease vs copper based grease. So I took it to the test. One side with copper grease, the other with lithium. Lets see which one will last the longest

I must say I had 2 years and 20k miles with powerflex FCAB, no squeaks when lubed properly.
that will be an interesting test. which ever one stays applied the longest i suppose.
think PowerFlex gives a little packet of lube when you buy. this may or may-not be enough?? perhaps that's why your friends M3 had lost a lot of it. i had been told by others to use a lot and so i did.
even with companies coming out with different grooves and areas for it to pack in they still eventually lose the lubrication over time.

nice of you to fix this for your friend, i'm sure he'll be excited for no squeaks.
and if that "lock ring" you found goes to something other than being the old one, hope you find it.
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Old 03-30-2020, 11:13 PM   #11
mega_stihl
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Originally Posted by Alex323Ci View Post
that will be an interesting test. which ever one stays applied the longest i suppose.
think PowerFlex gives a little packet of lube when you buy. this may or may-not be enough?? perhaps that's why your friends M3 had lost a lot of it. i had been told by others to use a lot and so i did.
even with companies coming out with different grooves and areas for it to pack in they still eventually lose the lubrication over time.

nice of you to fix this for your friend, i'm sure he'll be excited for no squeaks.
and if that "lock ring" you found goes to something other than being the old one, hope you find it.
The M3 has a whole list of chores, so I won't even be done after lubing the powerflex On the upside: I have an M3 at my disposal for the week

The lube that comes with powerflex is pretty good as it's the one I used on my FCAB's with no issues. The problem is right now I only have powerflex sachets at my disposal (and lithium lube and a whole lot of other lubricants), and it seems to me (could be wrong) that the grease that came with strongflex is different and less sticky than the one that came with powerflex. Imo: if you have it at your disposal, the grease that comes with powerflex is still your best choice. It sticks really good.

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