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Old 10-20-2008, 02:36 PM   #261
malapane
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Well, I had the GM V module serviced by Scott at www.bmwgm5.com. After a few weeks, it is clear this has been my problem since the beginning. Since the repair, my door locks work 100% of the time. I am so glad I found this thread. Thanks Scott!
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Old 10-20-2008, 02:41 PM   #262
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Update: its been over a week since I got my GM5 repaired by Scott, so far it failed to unlock once. Maybe I did not press the button well that time
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Old 10-27-2008, 01:18 PM   #263
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Hi guys I am new to the forum. I have been reading and looking for someone who can help me with my problem.

Door does not lock or unlock with key inserted into key slot.
Door does not lock or unlock with remote button pushed.
Trunk does not unlock with remote key.
Trunk does open with key inserted into key slot.
Door does lock and unlock using central push button.

2 Keys both have same issue. It does not make any noise like it is trying to lock or unlock. The automatic locking works after reaching 5 mph.

Last edited by Sling_NG; 10-27-2008 at 01:21 PM.
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Old 10-27-2008, 01:39 PM   #264
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Sling, I would say that it could be your actuators but it might be your GM5 unit. If you follow this thread, you'll find the link on how you can get it repaired or go to bmwgm5.com to either purchase new relays for your GM5 unit or to have the unit reparied. Scott is a very fair guy so you're in good hands. Before you do anything, read the website and see if you fall into the category of what's described. I was having issues where my doors would always lock but refuse to unlock unless I used the key so I ended up changing out the entire unit and that solved my issues. If you do decide to change out the whole unit, make sure you get one from another 4 door as its already programmed to control four normal windows and locks as opposed to a two door that's programmed to control two normal windows and two locks. Keep in mind that if you have an alarm on your 325i, it will need to be reprogrammed by BMW. The keys will also have to be reprogammed but that's an easy DIY. PM me if you have more detailed questions.
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Old 10-27-2008, 06:07 PM   #265
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Sling, it sounds like your keys need to be programmed to the car. There is a procedure somewhere in this thread.
It doesn't sound like an actuator or GM5 problem to me since you say that the central locking button DOES lock and unlock your doors.
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Old 12-23-2008, 04:54 AM   #266
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Smile GM5 Relay Fix

Thanks to the people who have posted in this thread and board in the past, this is my first post here and just outlines how i had similar problems with my door locks and how I rectified the problem by cutting into the relays and sanding down the contacts. Since that time I haven't had the issues I had before and the problem has been fixed.

My door locks on my e46 320ci 2003 wouldn't work in warm weather conditions, for example if the car was left out in the sun. The problem was eventually traced down to the 'GM5' module via this board and specifically this thread.

Advise on this thread was to remove the GM5 board and replace the relays which control the door locks and windows in the vehicle. Being in Australia and the idea of sending away my GM5 for a number of weeks for repair or ordering replacement relays (meaning mucking around with a soldering iron) wasn't attractive. So in my frustration I took a sharp knife to the top of the relays and cut the sealed unit open. Let me post a couple of pics below to show you how I did this.

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So first of all, the picture above shows the position of the GM5 module underneath the passenger side of the dash and behind the glove box. Removing it isn't really that difficult and information regarding its removal is available in this thread.

Basics are remove the glove box, there is a white housing frame type item that the GM5 module actually slides into. This has clips on the top of it that remove it from its place, there are wires that go into the GM5 module (circled in red in the picture), just remove those and slide the GM5 module out. The printed circuit board quite easily comes out.

You'll notice on the board some little black boxes which are the relays. Information on which ones to operate on are available in this thread.

So as shown in the image below, cut them open with a sharp object, they are a sealed unit, and simply using sand paper scrape the connection points. (You'll find that there will be a bit of carbon build up, there wasn't a great deal on mine that was visible but obviously enough to cause me problems.)
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Anyway, I sanded them down, making sure not to bend them out of place too much. I installed the module without putting it back into the GM5 housing but wiring it all up just to make sure that all features work ok.

I sealed the relays back up closing them up as best I could using some insulation tape which did the trick. The GM5 is quite well sealed as it is with its placement underneath the glovebox and in its own housing so I can't see this being a problem.

And bingo. The car has been operating fine for a few weeks now.

Before removing the GM5, I found the following link very useful http://www.bmwgm5.com/ . It also outlined which fuses to remove before removing the GM5, I went through this process and have had no problems.

Hope this helps somebody.

Emmanuel
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Old 01-18-2009, 06:00 AM   #267
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Just replaced my relays with tyco ones. All good here. Was a bit of a ***** but got there in the end. Working 100% here, nice to have my car back and not pray everytime I hit the unlock button that my passengers are going through the drivers door.
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Old 06-28-2009, 09:03 PM   #268
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Cleaned relays and fixed non-unlock issue

After a couple days of triple-digit temperatures here in San Antonio, my locks wouldn't unlock. After reading this thread, it became clear that my GM5 module was the culprit. So I set off to clean the contacts like Emmanuelm did, and if all failed, I would ship my module off to scottjoh at http://bmwgm5.com to have the relays replaced.
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Apart from prying up the clips that hold the door on to the front of the module, there are small clips on the sides of two of the rear connectors. These are relatively easy to manage by working from one side and releasing the clips across.
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I used a folding utility knife with a new razor blade to slice open the top of the relay. The plastic is pretty thin, so if you score it along the seam of the top of the package once, and then go back over it with a little pressure, it's not that difficult to cleanly slice the package on three sides and fold it back.
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Inside you can see the two relays per package.
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Once it's folded back, it snaps off fairly cleanly.
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I bent the side contacts over just a touch to allow enough space to fit a piece of sandpaper in between them (the spaces we're talking about are very, very small). Some of the contacts had small areas of corrosion that I scraped away with a razor blade. After cleaning the contacts, I checked the distances between the contacts (after I bent them back into place). This is important, as I said, the spaces we're talking about are very small, and you can clean the contacts until they're like new, but if the distances are wrong, it's still not gonna' work. I put the tops back on the relay package, and used transparent tape to tape them shut.
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New GM5 module: $500
Salvaged GM5 module: $350
Replaced module relays: $100
Repaired module relays: 2cm^2 of sandpaper
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Old 06-28-2009, 09:24 PM   #269
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Thanks for the tip, kroh.

I'll try this with mine.
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Old 07-08-2009, 11:22 AM   #270
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Notch one more success story to the "reconditioning" of the relays method. Net costs of consumables were: one new xacto knife blade, one small strip of 220 grit sandpaper, 5 inches of cellophane tape. One note is that when I was removing the GM V, I only removed the leftmost retaining clip from the white/yellow holder box. I couldn't for the life of me get the right most one off (too many wires and I couldn't jam my hands up there to detach it). It didn't matter as I was able to angle the white/yellow box down enough to unplug and then slide out the GM V. After that the opening and sanding of the relays worked flawlessly.

I recommend taking your time when opening the relays and you really only need to do the three sides NOT facing the vertical metal divider.

Thanks to those who were brave enough to try this method at the get go!
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Old 08-07-2009, 11:51 AM   #271
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great post kroh. i attempted to clean up the relay contacts as per the post. worked for about 5 days, then started exhibiting the "door locks not working" symptoms again. i decided to order new relays from scott at http://bmwgm5.com. Took 13 days (with a stat holiday in there) to get to toronto. i brought the module into the lab at work but then found out there was no solder sucker. i decided not to mess around at this point and got a pro to do it instead. i took it to Larry Debono, 905-470-5167, 7750 Birchmount Road, Unit 23, Markham ON L3R 0B4. he charged me $30 although he set the price before the job and said that it was a bi*ch to get out and would've charged $60 if he had known. not sure if he was joking or not. anyway, door locks work again...hooray!

one more thing to note, while waiting for the relays to arrive in the mail, i noticed the locks would eventually open if i started my car. it would take a few presses of the central lock button but it would eventually lock/unlock. i suspect it's due to the fact that when the car is on, the alternator is providing a higher (~14V) voltage as compared to when the car is off. give that a go if your passenger is sick of crawling through the driver's side!
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Old 08-10-2009, 12:43 PM   #272
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I keep telling people that the relays are a real ***** to get out without the right tools and even with the right tools it's not easy. I use a Metcal soldering iron which I find is an absolute must have. The Wellers and Ungars just can't get the heat into the board due to the large copper areas on the solder side and component sides of the board. I'm not surprised by Larry later saying $60. You also really need to check for pulled traces, ripped out plated through holes and damages pads.
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Old 08-28-2009, 11:36 PM   #273
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Thanks Kroh,
Another success story on reconditioning the relays. I have been having this problem for over a couple of years. Mine had the issue in the cold and warm so it was on and off for me. Last week it finally failed completly on me where it did not work any more at all. The trunk worked , I was able to open the driver door with key then lock with remote and center console. So I knew I had to tackle the GM V. I finally did it and all is good. My gf is glad she doesnt have to crawl in anymore.
Thanks again
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Old 10-05-2009, 12:05 PM   #274
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Any update from the people with the "kroh re-conditioned" relays? My door locks failed yesterday. I plan on cutting open the relays this weekend. Thanks.
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Old 01-06-2011, 08:54 PM   #275
medsource
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Well, the cold struck here in california and my driver side would sporadically lock... again... so, out came the GM V again and the sandpaper. 20min later all is well.

Maybe this will be part of my annual maintenance on the car
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Old 01-07-2011, 01:09 AM   #276
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OMG, the mother of all door lock threads has been revived after a 14 month hiatus.

medsource,
Just replace the damn relays. Don't screw around trying to eck another year out of your 8 year old relays.

Last edited by scottjoh; 01-07-2011 at 01:13 AM.
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Old 01-20-2011, 12:20 PM   #277
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Scott, do you still repair these GM5 units?

I have intermittant remote function. Either all the buttons work or they don't work at all. The remote was actually dead for 2 months and I planned on just buying a new key. Then it started working again a few days ago when I noticed this over the weekend: I have not had trouble manually unlocking my drivers door, but sometimes when manually unlocking it my passengers won't unlock. I hit the central button and it will work intermittantly unless I shut my drivers door and it will work fine. Im not sure if I need to send Scott my GM5, or am I having a problem with my drivers actuator.

Thanks for your time guys

Last edited by kpro; 01-20-2011 at 12:22 PM.
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Old 01-20-2011, 01:28 PM   #278
Toad21
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I had a similar problem, and I replaced both Door Lock Actuators. That fixed it. I wrote up a tutorial in the DIY sections.
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Old 01-20-2011, 07:51 PM   #279
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpro View Post
Scott, do you still repair these GM5 units?
I will be doing this for a long time to come. I placed another order for parts just a couple weeks ago.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kpro View Post
I have intermittant remote function. Either all the buttons work or they don't work at all. The remote was actually dead for 2 months and I planned on just buying a new key. Then it started working again a few days ago when I noticed this over the weekend:
Not a general module problem. Possible problem with the key itself or the FZV module. Take a look at this page http://www.bmwgm5.com/FZV_Antenna_Amp.htm

Quote:
Originally Posted by kpro View Post
I have not had trouble manually unlocking my drivers door, but sometimes when manually unlocking it my passengers won't unlock.
Possible problem with the general module.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kpro View Post
I hit the central button and it will work intermittantly unless I shut my drivers door and it will work fine. Im not sure if I need to send Scott my GM5, or am I having a problem with my drivers actuator.
Operator Error! The central locking button will not lock any of the doors if the drivers door is open. Driver door must be closed for the central locking button to do the normal lock-unlock-lock cycle. If the cycle ended on a lock and then you open the drivers door the next press will unlock the passenger doors and then not do anything until the driver door is closed. It's by design.

Last edited by scottjoh; 01-20-2011 at 07:55 PM.
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Old 01-21-2011, 03:10 PM   #280
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottjoh View Post

Operator Error! The central locking button will not lock any of the doors if the drivers door is open. Driver door must be closed for the central locking button to do the normal lock-unlock-lock cycle. If the cycle ended on a lock and then you open the drivers door the next press will unlock the passenger doors and then not do anything until the driver door is closed. It's by design.
I meant to say the central locking button will not UNLOCK the passenger door once I get into the car until I shut the door (this is intermittant).

I think Im going to wait til the weather breaks so I can drive around my Honda while I send you my GM5 Thanks. I bookmarked your page, and I will check out your link for the FMZ

Last edited by kpro; 01-21-2011 at 03:21 PM.
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