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Old 06-18-2019, 10:44 PM   #1
ggenovez
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bad cutch master?

Hi all,

I'm having a little trouble with my clutch.

I did a clutch job a few months ago and since I was there I replaced the slave cylinder.

Car ran fine for a few months then I had a hard time putting it into gear and would grind gears.

So I replaced the slave again. Bled it 10 times by opening the valve, pressing the clutch, closing the valve, release the clutch.

Felt fine, but also feel like the friction point is really low. starts about 1" from the floor. today, it ground 3rd twice. Could be me but I want to be ready in case it's not. The last time prior to replacing the slave, I had to turn the car off to put it in first.

Anybody run into this before? is it the master?
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Old 06-19-2019, 07:15 AM   #2
markusmarkus
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Try the following:
- remove the slave cylinder from the bell housing
- put a hose in the bleed screw
- invert the slave cylinder
- press the slave cylinder rod against the chassis
- have someone press and hold the clutch to the firewall
- open the bleed screw
- close the bleed screw
- release the clutch pedal
- repeat until there are no air bubbles in the fluid.
- keep checking the fluid level in the brake fluid reservoir.


If this doesn’t work then the clutch master cylinder is likely bad.
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Old 06-19-2019, 07:39 AM   #3
Effduration
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A boston-area BMW Indie shared his trick for bleeding the slave cyl (and entire clutch line). Worked great for me.

buy a cheap carpenter's squeeze clamp & use a pressure bleeder. You can even drill a hole in one side of clamp to hold the slave piston firmly.

Fill the brake/clutch reservoir to the tip top to get fluid over to the clutch side of reservoir
remove slave cyl from trans as noted above
use squeeze clamp to keep slave cyl piston depressed while bleeding - use a wire or something to hold it all up
attach hose to slave bleed nipple
attach pressure bleeder to reservoir and pressurize clutch system
depress clutch once or twice and hold for 10 secs ea time to make sure fluid is flowing thru master cyl.
check for bubbles in bleed hose/catch bottle

Just be sure to NOT release clamp while system is under pressure...the slave piston will eject if you do.

Last edited by Effduration; 06-19-2019 at 07:40 AM.
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Old 06-23-2019, 08:00 PM   #4
ggenovez
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Ok. Bled it again. Cant engage the the transmission. Replaced the master and the feed hose from the reservoir looked bad. Replaced that too.

Still cant engage the transmission.

Noticed the hose on the slave cylinder had fluid. Used a radiator presurizer and pressure drops pretty quickly. 5psi lasts about 30 seconds


Thinking it's the flex hose to the slave. Any other thoughts?
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Old 06-23-2019, 08:17 PM   #5
Effduration
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Its possible, but we don't see a lot of failures of the hard/soft clutch line from pedal to slave.

But that's pretty much all you have left. To pull that line out, disconnect it from the slave and master/pedal. I then remove the gas pedal (read up /youtube it) and pull the carpet back from behind the gas deal.

if you do replace it, you can get another hard/soft line or have a 3 foot flexible stainless steel line made with the proper quick-connect fittings. I did this on a recent e39 manual swap I did and it worked great. Not every hydraulic shop with have the fittings.
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Old 06-28-2019, 08:34 AM   #6
ggenovez
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Ok. It's not the master or the slave or the hoses.

What if it's the transmission?

I replaced the clutch, flywheel, throw out bearing last year.

When I put it all back, I had it on a lift, and in gear the wheels spun freely. So I fired here up and pumped the clutch a few times, I heard a screatch, a clunk and it started turning the wheels. Figured something settled. Might have been something more.

Any thoughts on what it might be?
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