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Old 03-25-2020, 06:24 PM   #1
rbthrillz
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2005 330Ci Overheating

Hello all, So i have been monitoring a coolant leak iíve had for the last few days, A few months ago i had the radiator and overflow tank replaced because it had a slow leak. it was all good until about a week ago it started to overheat and i couldnít open the radiator cap because the coolant was boiling in the radiator. I can see a decent sized leak underneath the car. The heat also has stopped working, I donít see any coolant in the floor boards. What i donít get is even if you fill the coolant all the way up it still ends up overheating. Any help would be appreciated. Itís a 2005 330Ci m54
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Old 03-25-2020, 06:25 PM   #2
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Also the leak is coming from the driver side of the engine
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Old 03-25-2020, 06:33 PM   #3
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Driver side is the left side of the car? I don't know where you live...left and right is easier...just remember it's always the car's side, not yours (if you're looking at the engine from the front).

So, start with not driving the car until you know more. You 'had' the radiator replaced...are you planning on doing this work yourself? If so, there is a great thread above that explains the cooling system.

Did you drive while the car was overheating? If so, about how long, for how many minutes? You should pull over immediately when that happens.

You could have coolant leaking from under the intake manifold or any number of places that then disappears when you park, because it's all blown off or out of the underskirt.

You will see signs of coolant if you have a good led flashlight of 100 lumens or so...and look around closely.

How many miles?

Also, to get under, if it's not easy for you, you can drive one side up a curb and slide under with cardboard.
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Old 03-25-2020, 06:38 PM   #4
rbthrillz
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I live in the US so itís left hand drive. And no i have not been driving it. It leaked even if you donít drive it itís still leaks out but not by much. I did notice though that when i was driving it back home it overheats at idle, when you give it throttle and the rpms go up it cools down very fast.
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Old 03-25-2020, 07:29 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by rbthrillz View Post
I live in the US so itís left hand drive. And no i have not been driving it. It leaked even if you donít drive it itís still leaks out but not by much. I did notice though that when i was driving it back home it overheats at idle, when you give it throttle and the rpms go up it cools down very fast.
That's a good thing to notice, although you still have to fix the leak. Depending on how much you're losing, and why it's overheating will determine if you might actually be able to drive it safely...and it's possible.

I'm thinking the fan might be broken or not getting a signal. Manual or automatic? It should come on when you turn on the AC, if it doesn't, it's the fan.

But, I suspect your therm could be stuck closed or your water pump might be cavitating because of the air in the system...thus not pumping too well.

If you don't know how to monitor coolant temp on your cluster, learn how to while you figure out what it might be. But, you need to find the leak and know what sort of leak it is.

Look through the intake--coolant can dry on the 'waffle' section you'll see. That's a pitb...the coolant pipes and intake mani needs to come off.

You can also clean things up and see where the coolant leaks from easier--you'll see residue...and look for it--under therm and wp, through intake, anywhere you can see green/blue/white powder...

Got to drink my Bass Ale.
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Old 03-25-2020, 08:27 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by rbthrillz View Post
I live in the US so it's left hand drive. And no i have not been driving it. It leaked even if you don't drive it it's still leaks out but not by much. I did notice though that when i was driving it back home it overheats at idle, when you give it throttle and the rpms go up it cools down very fast.


You are describing a Fan Clutch failure.

The water pump is driven by the serpentine belt. The pulley of the water pump has the main fan bolted to it, the fan is mounted to a thing called a viscous couple, aka fan clutch.

At speed (above 30-ish) air flow through the radiator happens because of the speed, but at stand still, as in stop-n-go traffic, the viscous material inside of the clutch heats and causes the fan to be directly attached to the pulley. The idea is, the fan takes energy to drive, so when it's not needed they can have it more or less free wheel, but when it is actually needed it can be positively driven. You have found that it doesn't get driven at idle, but air forced through due to speed manages to cool the radiator. You need the fan clutch.


NOT YOUR CAR (ENGINE), but you need the Item 2 part in this diagram. (This would be a great time to replace the idler and tension pulleys, plus the main belt.)

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=11_6016


PS
You can get this part at the auto parts store down on the corner, the point of the picture is to show you the part.

Last edited by jdstrickland; 03-25-2020 at 08:28 PM.
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Old 03-25-2020, 08:34 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by dmax View Post
That's a good thing to notice, although you still have to fix the leak. Depending on how much you're losing, and why it's overheating will determine if you might actually be able to drive it safely...and it's possible.

I'm thinking the fan might be broken or not getting a signal. Manual or automatic? It should come on when you turn on the AC, if it doesn't, it's the fan.

But, I suspect your therm could be stuck closed or your water pump might be cavitating because of the air in the system...thus not pumping too well.

If you don't know how to monitor coolant temp on your cluster, learn how to while you figure out what it might be. But, you need to find the leak and know what sort of leak it is.

Look through the intake--coolant can dry on the 'waffle' section you'll see. That's a pitb...the coolant pipes and intake mani needs to come off.

You can also clean things up and see where the coolant leaks from easier--you'll see residue...and look for it--under therm and wp, through intake, anywhere you can see green/blue/white powder...

Got to drink my Bass Ale.


I would not guess the t-stat since the car cools at speed and heats at idle. Having said that, I assume a belt-driven fan and the fan clutch has failed.

I'm with you though, if there are leaks then they need to be cured pretty much before anything else.
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Old 03-25-2020, 09:44 PM   #8
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I would not guess the t-stat since the car cools at speed and heats at idle. Having said that, I assume a belt-driven fan and the fan clutch has failed.

I'm with you though, if there are leaks then they need to be cured pretty much before anything else.
I thought fan first too, but I don't know what he knows. But, at the point that he's anywhere in the system again, it'd be a good time to replace those things he hasn't yet...therm and wp are easy to do.

Anyway, therm was a low odds guess, but it still could be acting up. The fan is needed rarely if the system is working right. Even idling, but for a long time, or with AC on, my fan would rarely come on. Automatics maybe need it more to cool the trans.
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