DIY- How to replace reverse drum, ZF5HP19 :) - E46Fanatics E46 BMW Social Directory E46 FAQ 3-Series Discussion Forums BMW Photo Gallery BMW 3-Series Technical Information E46 Fanatics - The Ultimate BMW Resource BMW Vendors General E46 Forum The Tire Rack's Tire Wheel Forum Forced Induction Forum The Off-Topic The E46 BMW Showroom For Sale, For Trade or Wanting to Buy

Go Back   E46Fanatics > Tuning & Tech > DIY: Do It Yourself

DIY: Do It Yourself
Post here to share or improve your wrench turning skills! All BMW E46 DIY tips, tales, and projects discussed inside. Learn to work on your car and know the right BMW parts you will need!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rating: Thread Rating: 51 votes, 5.00 average. Display Modes
Old 03-22-2010, 08:45 PM   #1
Chance_P
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ames, IA
Posts: 84
My Ride: 2001 325CI
DIY- How to fix your no reverse issue on a ZF5HP19

First off, I'd just like to say that between my father and I we put in a total of about 50 hours into this project. Time could easily be cut down to about 25 hours with this write-up. I would definately suggest 2 people for the removal/installation of the tranny. I'm not going to go too in depth on the removal and installation of the tranny because it has been covered before on this forum, and I didn't take any pictures of this process.

I'd also like to make mention that neither I nor my father have ever done ANY work to an automatic transmission and I myself have never even removed one from a vehicle until now.

To start off I'd like to make a list of parts/tools/documents I used. Not including the usual parts like hammers, sockets, wrenches, screwdrivers, etc etc. I bought my drum/filter/gasket from makcotransmissionparts.com but it now seems as if they are only carrying the drum that goes into the front wheel/all wheel drive versions of the zf5hp19. When I purchased the parts from them (about 2 months ago) I paid around 255 shipped for all 3 parts.

As far as tools go...
-15mm impact socket
-Variety of external torx sockets (I bought a nice little kit from harbor freight that had all of the sizes I needed and included a stubby ratchet that came in handy) for 15$
-fluid pump (to refill tranny)
-allen head sockets

Parts needed...
-Reverse (D) drum
-pan gasket for tranny
-filter
-rtv
-tranny fluid (could only get my tranny to take 6 quarts when I filled up, I couldnt get much fluid out of the torque converter)
-1x Part# 73.010/140 (will discuss this later)
-1x Part# 10.550 (optional, will be talked about later*)
-1x Part# 10.540 (optional, will be talked about later*)

Documents
#1 - https://www.e46fanatics.com/pdf/BMW-E...insideview.pdf
#2 - https://www.e46fanatics.com/pdf/BMW-E...Spec_Guide.pdf
#3 - https://www.e46fanatics.com/pdf/BMW-E...plodedView.pdf
#4 - https://www.e46fanatics.com/pdf/BMW-E...air/zfbody.pdf (didn't use this but I figured it might come in handy for someone else)

Transmission Removal

#1 - Drain the fluid asap. The sooner you do it, the less mess there is to deal with when you start taking the tranny apart. I drained mine a week in advance and it was pretty much dry inside by the time I opened it up.

#2 - Remove the exhaust. Use a 15mm impact socket and a torch. I used a small handheld propane torch. You want to heat the studs up on the exhaust manifolds until theyre glowing red, then quickly hit them with an impact. That way you don't sheer off the studs like many others on this forum have done. It also wouldn't hurt to pick up the 2 small gaskets that go between the manifolds and the exhaust. I didn't replace mine though and I have no leaks.

#3 - Now remove the heat shield between the exhaust and transmission.

#4 - Remove the driveshaft. Theres three bolts that hold it to the guibo, they are 18mm. You'll also undo 2 nuts that secure the bearing half way down the driveshaft. At this point, you could undo the 4 bolts holding the driveshaft to the differential, but i've read that its a pain in the ass to seperate the DS and the differential so I just pull the driveshaft apart at the slip yoke behind the bearing in the center of the DS.

#5 - Now go under the front of the car and look at the front of the transmission. There will be a rubber oval shaped plug on the passenger side facing the front of the car. Remove plug. Now use a flatblade screwdriver to spin the flywheel through the small hole on the bottom of the bellhousing. Spin it around until you can see a bolt through the hole where the rubber plug was. Remove bolt, repeat process. There are 3 bolts, each 17mm. also, DO NOT forget to remove the 10mm (i think) bolt next to this plug that holds the small bracket to the bellhousing. This bracket holds the wires for the o2 sensor away from the manifolds.

#6 - Under the hood, remove the air filter box, MAF sensor, the rubber intake tube. Now remove the cabin filter and cabin filter housing. And last but not least remove the plastic "wall" separating the ecu from the rest of the engine compartment.

#7 - Get back under the car and put a jack under the tranny. I used a regular floor jack and put an 8x2 between the jack pad and tranny pan. I also slipped a ratched strap over the tranny to secure it to the jack.

#8 - Remove tranny crossmember

#9 - Disconnect the two electrical connections to the transmission. The two tranny lines (1 bolt) and the cable coming from the shifter. (scroll down for picture)

#10 - Lower the rear of the tranny with the jack. Have someone watch the fan on the front of the motor so they can tell you when to stop lowering the tranny. I lowered mine until the fan was just barely touching the shroud.

#11 - Undo the bolts holding the tranny to the motor. I do not remember exactly how many there are. I do remember there are 3 different sizes and they are all external torx head. The easiest way to get to the bolts on top is to look over the top of the tranny (reason you've lowered the transmission). I used about 2.5 feet of ratchet extensions to get to them as well as a swivle joint at the end. Wrap the swivel joint in electrical tape so that it doesn't just flop around when you're trying to get the socket on the end of the bolts. This can be a pain in the ass when you've got a light in one hand, your head jammed in the driveshaft tunnel, and 10 lbs of ratchet in your other hand.

#12 - Now you'd think the tranny should be ready to come out right? Well if you're lucky it should. If you're car is like mine (and many others) the pin that goes from the bellhousing through the starter is siezed up holding the starter to the tranny. What I did to seperate the two was jack the tranny back up a couple inches and have my dad push the tranny towards the passenger side. He just laid on his back and put his foot against the guibo. While he was holding the tranny to one side I fished a huge flatblade screwdriver down behind the motor (where you previously removed the cabin filter and stuff) and stick it between the small gap that should now be present between the starter and tranny. Now have whoever is under the car pull the tranny back towards the driver side. This should disengage the pin from the starter another 1/8th of an inch or so. Repeat process 3-4 more times and the pin should completely pull out of the starter. You should now be able to lower the tranny all the way down. Get it off the jack and slide it out from underneath of the car.

In this picture towards the top left you can see the pin that goes into the starter. Mine is a little bent up. I used a punch and tapped it out of the tranny, then bent it straight and used a bench grinder to put a slight taper on the end of it so itll slide back into the starter easier upon re-installation.


Replacing the Reverse (D) drum in the ZF5HP19

#1 - Get the tranny up on a small table, bench, or desk. I had a wooden car with some wheels on it which made it really nice to work on. Also, get another table set up to put parts on. Lay a tarp down on the ground because there will still be a little fluid in some parts that will drip onto the ground. And finally, get some folgers coffee tins or something similar setting on the parts table. You're going to put the 4 difference drums you pull out of the tranny on these.

#2 - Get the pan off of the tranny. Pretty simple. Once you get the pan off there will probably be a couple suprises waiting for you in there.


#3 - You should see something like this now. (this is a picture after I put the new filter in fyi) Remove the 2 bolts holding the filter in and wiggle the filter out. You're new filter should have came with an orange o-ring looking thing on it where it goes into the valve body. When you pull the old filter out, the old o-ring will most likely stay in the valve body. As you can see in the picture, I just used a small screwdriver and some needlenose pliers to pull it out.


#4 - There are 2 size torx bolts holding the valve body in place. Remove ONLY the larger size. There are around 15ish. Next, disconnect the linkage at the top of this image (drivers side of tranny). Last, unplug the 6 electrical connectors at the right side of the picture (the rear of the tranny), as well as the plug towards the bottom of the picture. Keep in mind there is another plug on top of the valve body that you'll need to disconnect before you yank the valve body completly out. Don't worry about mixing up any of the plugs, it's pretty much impossible as they all stay in place with the valve body out.


Valve body set aside.


Piece of the drum that was hung up and didn't fall out.


Edge of the broken drum while its still installed.


#5 - Now. I mentioned earlier that you should try to get ahold of part #'s 10.550 and 10.540. (check out document #2 for images) I did not have these parts because I did not know what I am about to tell you. I really don't know if you'll even be able to get them, but I do know that 10.550 will most likely break when you remove it, and 10.540 is one of the o-rings that goes onto 10.550. First off, if you look at the picture above (where the valve body is set aside) you'll see a yellowish tube coming out of the valve body. That is part# 10.550. You can also see one of the o-rings on it, as well as the tabs that are on the top side of it. There are TWO of part 10.550 in the transmission. As you can see in that picture, there is a hole next to part 10.550 that is the same diameter. That is where the other identical piece goes, buy as you can see, it stayed in the transmission when the valve body pulled out. Thats because the tabs that you can see in the picture actually hold it in place on that particular piece. The one that is still in the valve body isn't held in place by the tabs which is why it just popped right out with the valve body. Inside of this part there is also a metal piece that is under spring pressure. Press it in, and turn it counter clockwise about 1/3rd of a rotation, it should then slide out, along with the spring putting pressure against it. Don't let the two pieces go flying. Set them off to the side. Here are a couple pictures that show these pieces.


Here is a picture of 10.550 that broke. As you can see, the tabs broke off of it. The other o-ring that goes over those tabs isn't in the picture (10.540) but it suprisingly didn't have any damage so I was able to reuse it. I'm sure you could source another o-ring locally from an auto parts store, but if you are going to order the extra 10.550 you might as well grab an extra o-ring just in case.


*Like I said, I didn't have a replacement part on hand, nor did I want to waste the time looking for a place to buy it from. So what I did was use the one that wasn't broken and put it in place of the one that broke. I then took the broken one and reconstructed it. I used jb weld and the tabs that broke off to reattach them and then put it in place of the other one that didn't break. The only thing that holds it in is the o-rings. This will all make much better sense once you've got it all in front of you, but I have no doubt that my jb-welded piece will more than do its job. All these tubes do is carry the fluid into and out of the pump. You might get lucky and be able to remove the piece without the tabs breaking, but the plastic is somewhat brittle and the tabs aren't very forgiving. I tried to slide a piece of tin around the part to disengage the tabs so it would come out but the tabs aren't rounded so it wouldn't go over them.

#6 - Now you're ready to get the pump out. Pull the torque convertor off if you havent already. Now you should see about 10 or so torx head bolts, remove them.
Bolts out.


Pump starting to come out. (this is actually a picture of me putting it back in) I used vice grips to grab hold of the pump from the front on one of the metal ridges to sort of spin it and pull it out a little bit.


The first drum should come out with the pump. Don't pull them apart if you don't have to! It will just be one less set of clutch packs you'll have to line up upon reinstall. It has 3 clutch packs in it I believe. When I pulled mine out they came apart a tiny bit and I didn't notice, then the one clutch pack that disengaged when that happened spun a little so the drum was sticking out about 1/4inch more than it was supposed to. I didn't realize this happened and I spent about 4 hours trying to get the pump to go back in all the way. Finally I pulled the pump and drum apart, noticed that the clutch pack wasnt aligned, fixed that, and it all went together perfectly. So even though I didn't pull them apart, they still came apart a little bit without me knowing so I didn't check them before reassembly and it caused a lot of headaches. I almost threw in the towel and brought it down to a tranny shop to have them put it back together all because of that one clutch pack. Heres a picture of the pump and first drum out and sitting on a coffee can inside of an oil pan.


#7 - Heres a picture of everything pulled out up to the D-drum. Have a sharpie handy so you can draw arrows on things so you know which direction and order they go in. also, draw marks on the tranny from the bottom to show you how far the different drums go back into the tranny. That way if a clutch pack isn't lined up you'll know it instead of spending 4 hours because of a stupid mistake. These will all just slide right out after the pump is out.


#8 - Remove these 3 torx head bolts, they hold the D drum in, and they are in there pretty tight.


Now the broken d-drum will come out. You'll have to give it a couple taps with a hammer to loosen it up.

#9 - Broken drum on the left. (still assembled) New drum on the right.


I forgot to mention this earlier, but there is an internal retaining ring that comes lose when the edge of the drum breaks (it breaks right where this ring is seated). This ring will just ride on the outside of the clutch packs so when you pull the drum out make sure you grab that piece and know where it goes.


Last one...


Now that the drum is out, you need to take it apart. Check out document #3, because from here on out I'll be referencing part numbers from page one of that document. Everything you need to take out of the drum is inbetween (and including) parts 190-193 (not numerically, but everything between those 2 parts in the picture itself). Part 190 is actually the retaining ring I mentioned earlier that rides outside of the clutch packs when the drum breaks. Parts 244 and 246 (as well as everything in between in the picture) do not need to come apart. That will all come out as 1 unit and there is no reason to take it apart.

Everything should just slide right out with the exception of parts 247 and 249. Those are the 2 plates that have fluid pumped in behind them, put pressure on clutch packs, and engage different gears (one being reverse), at least thats what I determined when I had it apart. To get them out, just lay the broken drum down on a rug or something, and beat on it with a rubber mallet. This should cause the piece on the side facing the ground to vibrate out. Now flip it over and do the same for the other side.

This is where I ran into my second problem, part 33, the o-ring that goes on the outside of 247, had seen better days. I'm pretty sure what happened was that when you put it in reverse, it pushes 247 out (as i previously said), except without that retaining ring to stop everything from pushing out too far in the drum. it pushes 247 out into the splines for the clutch packs in the drum and it tears up that o-ring. You'll need to get a new o-ring. (part# 73.010/140, mentioned in the parts needed list). From what I've read, the only way to get that o-ring is to order a rebuild kit which is 500-700$ (it includes all o-rings and clutch packs for the entire tranny). I'm sure there's a way to get a hold of it but I wasn't about to try to find it and have to wait for it to be shipped to me when I had come so far. So I set out to find an o-ring of similar size locally. I hit just about every auto parts store and transmission shop in my city (I was in Sioux City, IA while doing this FYI) but I couldn't find one as big as this one was. (its about 6.5 inches in diameter). Finally I found one at Tractor Supply that was pretty much identical in size. It was a little too small but i soaked it in warm water and it went on perfectly.

Now put all of the clutch packs back into the drum on the side that didn't break (I might also refer to it as the backside of the drum, since it faces the rear of the tranny). Looking at the document, you'll see parts 114 and 124. These are actually circular pieces of steel with tabs that are bend outward to put pressure on the center of the drum (to hold those plates away from the clutch packs). What you're going to need to do is come up with a way to compress them both at the same time, while also sliding the center piece i previously mentioned (parts 244-246 in the picture) through the center of the drum and securing the external retaining ring to the other side. I rigged up a piece of threaded rod with some washers and nuts, a 24mm socket, and 4 1/4in drive deepwell sockets as well as a metal plate with a hole in the center. This might sound sort of rediculous, but it worked perfectly. I'm sure theres a specially part you could buy to do this, but why spend the money when you've most likely got everything you need to make your own in your garage. Heres are some pictures explaining what I rigged up.

Put the 24mm socket in the center of the drum on the front side (placing the socket there will compress the spring/plate on that side of the drum as well), put 2 nuts on the end of the threaded rod, slide the rod through the socket and through the drum. Now flip the drum over like it is in the picture below.


You should be looking at this now...


From here on out you pretty much just have to do the reverse of everything you just did (minus taking the drum apart of course). The only tips I have for reassembly are to get a couple straight pieces of coat hanger and line the holes on the pump up with the holes in the tranny. It will make things a LOT easier, trust me.

Instructions to refill the tranny are in the first document I listed. Thats all I've got for now, If I think of anything else or any of you have a question I'll edit my post to answer it as best I can. Feel free to shoot me a PM with ANY and ALL questions you have. Heres my email, feel free to contact me there also. [email protected]tmail.com Sorry for any mistakes in spelling or anything that just flat out doesn't make sense. I've been sitting here in front of the computer for about 3 hours now typing this up. Good luck guys!

Last edited by Chance_P; 03-23-2010 at 02:13 PM.
Chance_P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2010, 01:26 PM   #2
Chance_P
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ames, IA
Posts: 84
My Ride: 2001 325CI
bumping this because I just finished it up.
Chance_P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2010, 01:53 PM   #3
BimmerBrakes
The Brake Newbie!
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: DFW, Tx
Posts: 1,146
My Ride: 2005 ZHP BMW
Send a message via AIM to BimmerBrakes
Great Write-Up...So how does it Drive so Far? How was the Bands?

[email protected]
BimmerBrakes is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 03-23-2010, 02:11 PM   #4
Chance_P
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ames, IA
Posts: 84
My Ride: 2001 325CI
Quote:
Originally Posted by [email protected] View Post
Great Write-Up...So how does it Drive so Far? How was the Bands?

[email protected]
It drives excellent. I've put about 1k miles on it since I finished it up. I'd have to say it actually shifts a little smoother than before due to the fresh fluid.

Honestly I don't even know what the bands are in the transmission so I couldn't tell you what kind of shape they were in. Like I said I've never done any transmission work before this. I probably used a bunch of wrong termonolgoy in my write up too.
Chance_P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2010, 05:46 PM   #5
strelnikoff
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Texas
Posts: 99
My Ride: 2002 325i
you sir are are a brave man. thank you for the diy.
strelnikoff is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2010, 07:15 PM   #6
chet31
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Madison WI
Posts: 431
My Ride: 05 330i convertible
This has been needed for a long time, good job! Did the new reverse drum you installed seem to be more heavy duty? Or was it exactly the same as the one you replaced?
chet31 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2010, 07:16 PM   #7
neil1138
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 3,524
Fancy fancy, nice job sir
neil1138 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2010, 07:32 PM   #8
Chance_P
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ames, IA
Posts: 84
My Ride: 2001 325CI
Quote:
Originally Posted by chet31 View Post
This has been needed for a long time, good job! Did the new reverse drum you installed seem to be more heavy duty? Or was it exactly the same as the one you replaced?
it was actually a tiny bit thicker in the area where the failure usually takes place. probably about as thick as they could have made it without having to redesign the entire transmission. After I put it in and was sure it was working I got on it in reverse a couple times just to test my work. Nothing rediculous obviously but harder than you normally would while backing up. I also found a couple large hills and came to a stop then put it in reverse and backed up them a little ways. I'm definately babying it whenever its in reverse from now on though. (not that i ever beat on it in the first place).
Chance_P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2010, 09:02 PM   #9
genuity
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: *
Posts: 1,446
My Ride: 2001 330iS
Damn, I thought I would never see a DIY on the cursed "no reverse" ZF 5HP19. Chance_P, your the man!

EDIT: I forgot to ask, is the new drum any thicker than the original busted one? It's kind of hard to tell from the picture, but I remember reading about how the newer one and ones that come in the rebuilt ones are supposed to be better?

EDIT EDIT: nm, just saw the post above mine. Thanks

Last edited by genuity; 03-23-2010 at 09:11 PM. Reason: better reverse drum?
genuity is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2010, 09:07 PM   #10
hvirani
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Vancouver
Posts: 334
My Ride: e46 320i
Jesus.

Thats one ballsy DIY.
hvirani is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2010, 09:07 PM   #11
usaf_wx
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 422
My Ride: 2000 323i
very impressive. congrats sir.
__________________
usaf_wx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2010, 11:57 PM   #12
mack89
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Texas
Posts: 2,335
My Ride: '02 TIAG 330i 5spd
Wooooooow wonderful DIY
__________________
mack89 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2010, 04:02 PM   #13
Chance_P
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ames, IA
Posts: 84
My Ride: 2001 325CI
Thanks for the comments guys.

Can anyone host these files for me? Or know of a website that doesn't limit the number of downloads? I've been getting PM's from people with issues downloading them. Thanks!
Chance_P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2010, 04:55 PM   #14
chet31
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Madison WI
Posts: 431
My Ride: 05 330i convertible
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chance_P View Post
it was actually a tiny bit thicker in the area where the failure usually takes place. probably about as thick as they could have made it without having to redesign the entire transmission. After I put it in and was sure it was working I got on it in reverse a couple times just to test my work. Nothing rediculous obviously but harder than you normally would while backing up. I also found a couple large hills and came to a stop then put it in reverse and backed up them a little ways. I'm definately babying it whenever its in reverse from now on though. (not that i ever beat on it in the first place).
Great, tranny should last forever now!
chet31 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2010, 05:03 PM   #15
bumere46
Registered User
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Fort Myers, Florida
Posts: 1,242
My Ride: 2006 330CI ZHP
damn you've got balls!
bumere46 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2010, 05:14 PM   #16
Chance_P
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ames, IA
Posts: 84
My Ride: 2001 325CI
Quote:
Originally Posted by bumere46 View Post
damn you've got balls!
Well being a broke college kid it was either try to repair it myself or take the loss and sell the car for what I could get for it. Worst case I'd be out the 300 bucks I spent on parts in addition to the loss I'd take on selling the car. I'm glad everything worked out the way it did. I saw how popular neils thread on the GM tranny was so I figured I should do a write up since there were probably just as many people with ZF issues as there were GM.
Chance_P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2010, 05:14 PM   #17
alibusoul
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Fort Worth, TX
Posts: 1,359
My Ride: 04 330Ci
Where were you 2 years ago when this happened to me?! lol i can't believe this was your first work on an automatic tranny, really nice job. I'm sure this'll help alot of ppl.. however I wish you woulda used a better camera, those look like cell phone quality pics
alibusoul is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2010, 05:21 PM   #18
Chance_P
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ames, IA
Posts: 84
My Ride: 2001 325CI
Quote:
Originally Posted by alibusoul View Post
those look like cell phone quality pics
Unfortunately thats because they are. I wasn't even planning on taking pictures until half way through the project (thats why I don't have any pictures of the tranny removal process). All I had on hand was my phone and I figured it was better than nothing.

edit: nice sig, cant get enough of that show. haha
Chance_P is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2010, 06:44 PM   #19
Starless
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 310
My Ride: 02' 325i
Amazing job!

I've just received my GM tranny overhaul manual, it's shifting perfectly so far, but just in case...

Did you use a manual or was figuring out everything yourself? In my manual they are using those fancy special tools to measure the tolerances between drums (I believe). Did you use any of those?

One again - Outstanding job!
Starless is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2010, 06:59 PM   #20
Chance_P
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Ames, IA
Posts: 84
My Ride: 2001 325CI
Quote:
Originally Posted by Starless View Post
Amazing job!

I've just received my GM tranny overhaul manual, it's shifting perfectly so far, but just in case...

Did you use a manual or was figuring out everything yourself? In my manual they are using those fancy special tools to measure the tolerances between drums (I believe). Did you use any of those?

One again - Outstanding job!
no manuals. i just went with it. i used no special tools. anything i used that was somewhat out of the ordinary i listed in the parts section at the top of the page. im not too worried about measuring tolerences between drums because the reverse drum that i replaced is bolted to the tranny and doesnt move so there really was no way for the new part to not be in there the same as the old one (if that makes any sense).
Chance_P is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Censor is ON



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:11 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2019 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
(c) 1999 - VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.