I've been troubleshooting this issue for a long time now and have come nowhere to fixing it. I've changed engine mounts and all suspension components except the front strut assemblies( car's in garage now on jacks and I'm finishing up the Bilstein HD's tomorrow morn). Done half shafts twice. I still get a little vibration at around 60 mph. Axles are reman's so they could be causing that. Tie rods, inner/outer are done. I haven't changed any steering column components yet like the u joints or upper column.
The vibration is everywhere; dash, seats, steering wheel especially when I turn it left to right . . . all the while when I'm idling. As soon as I start to drive or reverse it disappears.
It's gotta be something drive-line related, no?
Transfer case bushing?
Transmission mounts?
Differential mounts?
I cleaned the MAF too. Didn't change a thing. And it looked spotless. 170K miles now. First time the front struts have been done too. I couldn't believe they lasted so long.
I had posted something awhile back about both being a possible issue. Vibrations in my book mean something is loose. I'm not even sure where the harmonic balancer is (around the water pump?) . . . Maybe the Vibration damper (11231438995) otherwise known as the crankshaft pulley? It does cover my build date of 10/01.
So it appears that the harmonic balancer is attached to the crankshaft pulley. Is this just rubber around steel? I would fain never pay for a new engine because of this. Maybe if it's removed the vibrations would increase. I couldn't imagine the labor involved. . . .
Check idle control valve, O2 sensors, fuel pump, fuel filter and intake boots for vacuum leaks. You have a rough idle off throttle where the engine is defaulting to a preset fuel map. Somewhere, it's not getting enough gas and you are bordering on a lean condition code. It's just over the horizon...
I wouldn't bother with the harmonic balancer, it's likely not the problem. I had this issue with both my old Passat and my current Expedition, the issue was one of the ones I told you above.
Fans good. Sam, fuel filter is newer. I'll test the others. 02 sensors have never been done. No vacuum leaks in any of the secondary air system, intake system, or crankcase ventilator system as all were just done not 1 week ago and this problem has been long standing. Fuel pump . . .don't know how to check that.
So over the weekend is got this code p0014 and p0015 ..
i got the car inside and check every thing cause i did a VCG last week..every thing was OK..
i tested the solenoid and the 2 of them are working but the exault one was slow to click click.so i cleaned them out and the car run just perfect..the car sit inside all winter and the solenoid must got stuck..remember that the idle was running a bit high before i got the code..in my case here i didn't get the lost of power.the car was just poling fine..
I have started threads about this problem and replied to threads regarding this issue. I myself have replaced ever thing possible and mine still is a 3000 lb vibrator in cold weather...:censor: wait for the weather to warm up and it will go away, mine does this every winter..
Nobody has successfully fixed this issue and it is a known flaw with the XI's. I'm to the point of just wanted to sell mine then deal it it anymore..
So SamDoe1, you believe this is purely an intake issue? I must clarify that I have no idle issues at all. I used to last year when my intake camshaft position sensor went and then my exhaust camshaft position sensor followed suit. Crankshfat was done before those. All oem brand. This vibration is really only mechanical in nature.
Now I do have a loose as a goose upper U-joint on the Lower joint assembly of the steering column. The double universal is good though. Seems built really well.
I have the exact same problem as OP. But for me I normally only notice it during the cold weather. When I put the car into neutral the vibration goes right away. I do have a slight rough idle so once I take care of that I can see what else I can do.
Sadly I tend to agree that it won't fix the issue. If only there was that acme part that I could throw at it to wash the problems away. Vibration type issues have been the bane of this car since I bought it at 91k. Control arms, half shafts, bent rims, brakes, :blah:. I have never had another vehicle that did this. Even my B5 S4 never had this issue . . (except for the snow packed into the rims when doing spins)
So has anyone ever contronted the transmission mounts? When my indy shop did my engine mounts two summers ago they said the tranny mounts were solid. I tend to think that somehow these are the culprit since of course only in drive or reverse while idling does it do this. Once the power is transferred to the driveline the vibration is nullified.
There is a couple threads on this issue. I suggest looking through them. Mounts have been the target in many debates, but once again probably not the fix considering the amount of fanatics that all have the same issue.
Wouldn't the vibration continue as forward or backward movement progresses from idle position if it was indeed intake issues and/or O2 sensors? As soon as the power is transferred the vibration stops. I'm not doubting you. I just don't fix things without understanding what's in error. As a PM it's a good idea but I've dumped some cash already this year into the oil pan, ccv, and front struts/mounts.
The engine computer uses the idle control valve and the fuel system to control the amount of air/fuel going into the system based on the readings it gets from the MAF, the O2 sensors, and the intake air temp sensor. This is just like the throttle body off idle. If any of these is wrong, there is less error at low rpm, it can give a rough idle.
Then again maybe this is completely normal? I have seen this does affect almost all makes/models of awd vehicles. Certainly if I hold the brake and gas it the vibration does go away slightly so this would preclude the idle rpm's being the culprit, say 600-800.
I wouldn't say it's normal at all. It affects all makes and models of almost every car. Like I said, I've experienced it and I've fixed it. In terms of cost (minus labor), the fixes I've given you would cost less than $20 with the exception of the O2 sensors. On the other hand, you should replace those anyway if you are over 100k.
Then again maybe this is completely normal? I have seen this does affect almost all makes/models of awd vehicles. Certainly if I hold the brake and gas it the vibration does go away slightly so this would preclude the idle rpm's being the culprit, say 600-800.
You replaced the battery and it fixed your rough idle :hmm:
I guess low voltage could create some issuses but highly doubt this is the solution to the OP and others including myself.
BTW, the temp hit 55° today and guess who's car starting to idle better...
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